The Yorkshire contingent. |
|
Andrews Sally - Student, University.
Barakova Dagmar - Student,
University.
Bavage Trevor -Graduate, Chemistry.
Bennett Martin -Graduate,
Pharmacy.
Coleman Hilary - Secretary.
Collins Jenny - Student,
University.
Fixter Kenneth - Police Cadet *.
Harvey Peter - Graduate,
Engineering.
Horn Valerie - Police Cadet.
Katik Nadia - Student,
University.
Krolitlova Regina - Student, University.
Kairm-Caudle
Patricia - Teacher.
|
Lloyd Maggie - Student, University.
Novak Brigitte - Bank
Clerk.
Nutland Anita - Office Manageress.
Nutland John - Fitter.
Porter Malcolm - Police Cadet
Reynolds Celia - Student, University.
Stewart Stephen- Graduate, Physics.
Smith John - Student, University.
Shere John - Teacher.
Venables Michael - Police Cadet.
Whaley Peter -
Graduate, Chemistry.
Wilson Andrew - Scholar.
Walker Michael - Student,
Engineering. |
|
* Some additional photographs of Comex 3 taken by Kenneth
Fixter can be found
here. |
Preparation.
We held weekly meetings in various parts of Yorkshire, including
Sheffield, York, Wakefield and Bradford. During these meetings we made
preparations for the journey and had several talks on relevant subjects. Among
these was one by the medical officer from Bradford University who spoke about
likely illnesses, injections, and hygiene. At the beginning of a 'Comex Week'
we held a reception for all our Yorkshire sponsors which was greatly enjoyed.
During this week the coach was on show in many of the areas represented. On the
Wednesday, unfortunately, the gearbox failed and we remained without it for
three days!
The Comex 3 camp for all 500 was held at Woollaton Park,
Nottingham from 1 - 4 July. Here there were courses for first aiders and
mechanics. The drivers had been sent to the Army Transport Regiment in
Aldershot, the cooks to the Polytechnic in Newcastle-under-Lyne, and the radio
operators to Pye of Cambridge. Duples, the coach-builders, looked after the
mechanics. Overall, many problems and queries were sorted out. "T'Owd Tup", our
Yorkshire Mummies play, was rehearsed at every available opportunity and the
general feeling in the contingent - especially 'Rolling, Tolling, Tippling Tom'
(that is John Shere our Cultural Liaison Officer) - was that it needed
rehearsing much more! |
Monday 14th July Bradford - Dover
The coach started out from Bradford at approximately 0845
collecting members on the way, while the remainder met us at the Duke of York
School in Dover where we camped for the night. The girls slept in dormitories,
the boys in the gym. |
Tuesday 15th July Dover - Frankfurt
 We
awoke at 0630. There was a great deal to do before 12 noon. The packers wanted
the luggage before 0715 so that loading could be finished before Greg's
briefing. Greg told us that Brigitte had been to see him and would be flying to
Istanbul because she could not get a visa for Yugoslavia - being classed as a
stateless person. We were unhappy about this but nothing else could be done
Celia informed us that the coach would be leaving by 0845. Members
who had not yet received their travellers' cheques could get them in Dover.
(This was due to the long delay waiting for visas at the Afghan Embassy.) As
soon as Greg had finished speaking there was a mad rush for the dining room and
breakfast; but when we assembled at the coach, all in good order, it was only
to be told that there was to be a briefing for Regional Leaders. When we
eventually arrived in the city centre some members still had last minute
shopping to do. So, we regrouped at 1000 and took the coach for a wash. We
closed all the windows and pushed the aerials down, but forgot about the
flag-mast - which was duly broken.
On then to the docks, through the customs and aboard the
Enterprise 4. A message from Prince Philip wishing us 'bon voyage' was read out
over the Tannoy. The crossing was calm and we arrived on schedule at 1600. Once
more through the customs and on to take up our position in the convoy.
We followed what the navigators thought was the Brussels Ring
Road, which was in fact the Brussels-Antwerp Road. The difficulty arose because
the navigator was following the lead coach which had taken the wrong turning.
About an hour later, when most of us were dozing, Mike Walker, the driver,
pulled into the side shouting for first aiders as he jumped out. There were two
cars on either side of the road on their roofs. Grabbing torches, the boys
dashed back to the cars. Ken and Val, both police cadets, used their first aid
knowledge to deal with one of the drivers - his face covered in blood. Ken's
T-shirt was torn in two to make a bandage. The road was strewn with glass and
petrol so some of the boys heroically directed the traffic. A Belgian car
passing stopped and went to phone for an ambulance. When it arrived we decided
to press on: not having actually seen the accident we would be of little help
to the police. At the border town of Aachen we were asked to pay road tax
(normally levied on commercial vehicles). The radio operator tried to contact
Greg without success.
 However, on being
assured that we could reclaim the money on our return, we paid up and moved on
to the United States Air Force Base - arriving at about 1800. |
Wednesday 16th July Frankfurt
The sun woke us up. After breakfast, some inspected the base while
others sunbathed. At 1500 everyone attended a meeting of Commonwealth
representatives from Malta, Tanzania, Pakistan and India. The Lord Mayor of
Frankfurt presented us with flags for the coaches and told us a bit about the
city.
There followed a wonderful meal provided by our hosts. Many of us
were so full we had difficulty walking. The rest of the afternoon was spent
rehearsing and sunbathing. At 1800 the drivers met to discuss the advantages of
travelling in convoy and opted to give it a try the following day. A few of us
were invited to go to a Folk Club but decided instead to spend the time sewing
seat covers - and an early night.
It was very warm in the gymnasium so some of us slept outside. One
of the two large ground sheets was spread on the grass, sleeping bags placed on
top, and the second ground sheet used for protection from the dew. Half an hour
later two American patrolmen asked us if we would mind moving to the other side
of the building. Pandemonium! Four of us handled the ground sheets. Unable to
find his shorts, Mike hopped across in his sleeping bag - but with his sandals
on; Martin looked extremely funny in pyjamas and bush hat, and how I wished I
had some flash bulbs for my camera. The whole episode was well intentioned -
even enjoyable - and in that mood we were soon asleep. |
Thursday 17th July
Up at 0600. Breakfast was as delicious as dinner the night before.
We then dispersed to pack up in readiness to set off in convoy at 0742. The
scenery was much like Derbyshire, wooded and hilly; the houses with whitewashed
fronts and small windows. We pulled into a lay-by for a lunch of larded bread -
which was very nice - with cheese, meat spread and melon. When we arrived at
the frontier, Ken had our passports stamped with the minimum delay and we were
on or way to the next camp, in Salzburg - to a welcome of thunder and
lightening. Despite this, Maggie and Ken prepared a delicious risotto with rice
for tea. Some of us then went to the nearby bier garten and had a wonderful
evening dancing and singing with a party of Austrians. After the Austrian wine
and beer in jolly company, we slept soundly. |
Friday 18th July
Up at 0630 and breakfast at 0700. It was damp and raining lightly.
We left at 0735 to do some shopping before forming convoy. By the time we left
it was raining heavily. Convoy formed by 0930, at Bad-Schau, and we moved
slowly up into the mountains. It rained heavily in some places and there was a
lot of mist in others, so few photographs were taken. But it was a beautiful
journey and we stopped at Rottermann for coffee - and toilets - at 1140. It was
now hot, but not so mountainous. We had a meal on board of just two sandwiches
and kept going for the Austrian-Yugoslav border.
A message from Greg's car reported that there was more trouble
over road tax. (Greg himself was travelling for awhile with St Andrews, so we
stopped to act as relay station.) Having experienced the same problem earlier,
we paid the tax and were then informed that we were on the same wavelength as
the Austrian Fire Service. This proved to be a false alarm but, apparently, we
were contravening Yugoslav Radio Acts. Consequently, officials began taking the
serial numbers of all Comex radios, as well as the names and addresses of the
operators.
We stayed until 1810 and spent the time eating, drinking and
chatting, and playing football, before setting off in good voice to rejoin the
convoy. Here there was more singing with a few local people listening
appreciatively, and Manchester went round with the hat!
Crew change at 2010. The main road was rough, unmade in places,
and quite unlike the autobahn. Progress was slow and we reached the outskirts
of Zagreb at 2230. We waited for twelve coaches to form convoy before moving
towards camp led by a Yugoslav guide. Zagreb has so many red lights that we
didn't arrive till 2315 - tired and hungry. Although the journey was no more
than 300 miles, we saw an enormous change in the scenery, the weather, and in
the economy. |
Saturday 19th July
After a late night we had breakfast at 0900. The morning was given
over to domestic chores: cleaning the coach, washing clothes and shopping in
Zagreb. And when that was over, we enjoyed the sun around the swimming pool.
Lunch was waived in favour of these pleasures. But there was a rehearsal in the
afternoon - much needed - from which there was no escape: we would be facing a
formal audience for the first time that night. Changes and improvements were
being introduced up to the last minute. Everyone looked brown and healthy.
The stage consisted of two ground sheets surrounded by the
coaches, and illuminated by headlights. Our contribution brought some earthy,
broad humour to the programme and it was well received. Afterwards, we
celebrated in the appropriate fashion with our friends, and were also
entertained by Greg who sang Baba Noma fluently. The Yugoslav Tourist Boad
presented us with a bottle of bottle of Plum Brandy (Sljivovica) that we
decided to save for some future emergency. |
Sunday 20th July
A late call at 0830 and breakfast at 0900. We were to be guests at
the Zagreb International Folklore Festival in Republic Square. In the milling
crowds we caught glimpses of traditional costumes - very colourful - set off
against happy, smiling faces. A series of explosions above the shops signalled
the start of festivities, moving along side streets, singing or folk dancing
according to the predilection of each group. There was also a play about a
typical Slav wedding that attracted a lot of interest; and here too there was
much singing and dancing, with lavish hospitality on the touch lines. Our
presence was obviously appreciated, and we enjoyed ourselves.
Back in camp, John the banker asked if we would be prepared to
contribute an additional £4.00 to be saved for the return journey. It
seemed sensible enough and we all agreed. After tea, we began making
preparations for an early start the next morning and retired early, while the
packers stayed up till midnight, and the mechanics till 0130 doing routine
maintenance and wheel changing.
With our arrival in Zagreb we had completed
the first 1000 miles of the journey, and this is what a local newspaper,
Vjesnik, had to say: 'The British invented football, but the five hundred
Britons on the football field at Mladost Camp left the impression that they
have invented - speed. They arrived in twenty coaches about fifteen minutes
before midnight, and by midnight twenty huge tents, with as many lamps and gas
cookers, were already up, and in the dishes there were hot soup and vegetables.
They prepared their supper before the representatives of the Zagreb Tourist
Federation could offer them a welcome. They completed this without noise,
nimbly but in whispers, with suppressed laughter and amusing incidents. They
behaved as if they were the hosts and we the guests: "You seem to have
practised life under tents for three years," I suggested to a fair-haired girl
student from Cambridge. "Three weeks," she replied. "In each coach, every
student knows exactly what he or she has to do. We even have members who are
assigned the tasks of singers, players and comics."… The following day,
these charming visitors gave a rousing welcome to the participants in the
Folklore Festival…' |
Monday 21st July
We set off in convoy at 0537 after a hearty breakfast heading for
Skopje - our banker complaining meanwhile that we spreading our jam too thick.
At 0630, Steve, the radio operator, joined the Sussex coach in order to mend
their radio. It came to life with a 'test' call to Greg asking him to arrange
for some spare parts.
At a roadside café, around 1100, we stopped for coffee and
were persuaded to buy some wooden pipes from an aged peasant woman. The new
owners of these instruments felt obliged to entertain us as we drove on. At
1215, while stuck in a traffic jam, a woman tried to board our coach thinking
it was a tourist bus. Beyond Belgrade, we stopped on the autobahn to buy apples
for lunch from peasants on the roadside. A little skilful haggling and they
were ours for five pence each. Shortly afterwards, we stopped by a garage for a
crew change and the mechanics tried to buy some paraffin only to be offered 50
litres of paraffin wax instead!
 On the
final lap to Skopje, we passed a donkey laden with sheaves of barley - the
first of this kind of transport we had seen. In fact, the last part of the
journey saw quite a change in greener scenery and a richer economy. Peasants
were dressed in black - for the women - and baggy trousers with Cossack style
hats for the men. And there were many quaint villages - quite different from
the day before.
We arrived at the campsite at 2000 and found we couldn't drive
into the limited space. After a heated discussion about whether to drive on to
the Greek border, we decided to stay, unpacked the coach and made camp. Then
most of us went for a drink and a singing session. This was the first time we
had to use Sterotabs - and squatting loos. |
Tuesday 22nd July
A leisurely breakfast at 0800 and we were on the road by 1020.
Passing through Skopje it was difficult to decide how much of the shabbiness
and destruction was due to the recent earthquake, and how much to poverty and
neglect. Well cared for farmland outside the town presented a more hopeful
picture.
Titov Veles seemed more prosperous than Skopje. The houses,
visible up the hillside, were attractive and well kept, and the shops stocked
with smart western clothes. Small donkeys, with crude wooden saddles resting on
thick sacking, walked briskly along the roads before disappearing up dirt
tracks towards the poorer quarters. We shopped for bread and ice creams, and
took some photographs. The banker, filled with anxiety over the state of our
finances, was delighted with the price of bread. The cost of living was coming
down.
Vineyards gave way to stretches of mountainous, barren scenery as
we journeyed on towards Greece. Arriving at 1430 we thought that we would have
to wait for Greg, who had the road tax receipts, but there was no problem and
we were through the border in record time. Crossing into Greece produced no
problems either. Within an hour we were on our way enjoying lunch on the move:
bread, paste, jam and apple - washed down with water!
The impression changed rapidly from a rural landscape to more
affluent surroundings, and signs of growing everywhere. After Thessalonika,
twisting and turning down a steep decline to the coast was hazardous enough,
but the coast road itself was even more difficult - running through small
villages, around sharp bends and over narrow bridges - easing past oncoming
articulated lorries. Arriving at Kavalla around 2200 we tucked into a delicious
mutton stew, cleaned up, and settled down for the night. |
Wednesday 23rd July Kavalla
 A late lie-in and
breakfast at 1100. There was a diarists meeting at 1045 during which Greg went
over the background and aims of Comex , and suggested that there was perhaps a
little too much squabbling over the cost of campsites. These things would
adjust themselves as we went along. Meanwhile, he thought that Comex 3 was of a
higher standard than Comex 1 and 2 - and rightly so.
There was also a contingent meeting to discuss topics of general
interest including whether we should travel to Hyderabad (still six thousand
miles away) by coach or train, but decided to leave that until we could get a
better idea of the cost. We then turned to the matter of how best to welcome
Brigitte in Istanbul the following day.
 Discussion
concluded, some of us went shopping in town and others swimming in the sea. A
tourist policeman came over and very kindly invited the police cadets for a
drink, meanwhile accepting our invitation to tea consisting of fish, peppers
and aubergines mixed with rice, followed by melon. John the banker was
delighted with the cost of fish: 12 Drachmas (3 shillings) for 3 kilos - thanks
to Trevor's skilful bargaining. At 2000 we had a Tup rehearsal on the beach
before taking part in a cultural performance for our hosts.
|
Thursday 24th July
We set off at 0515 - only half an hour late after over sleeping -
to be ahead of the lead coach for the day, Edinburgh, and in order to be first
into Istanbul to greet Brigitte flying out from London. At 0815 we reached a
place called Kimitini, where we took a wrong turning down a side street, and in
doing so passed an excellent fruit and vegetable market. Ken bought a pumpkin,
mistaking it for a melon. The stall holder was amused, exchanged it for him,
and he gallantly shared it .
At 0940 we stopped at Alexandropolis so that our Banker could
change some money, but no such luck. So we pressed on arriving at the border at
1030, just ahead of Edinburgh, and were first through. After a crew change, and
an introduction to unisex loos, we moved on, stopping a few kilometres later to
buy petrol. We drove off leaving John the banker at the garage still paying the
bill. But he didn't seem to mind and walked up the road to join us.
Passing peasants in traditional costumes, and two camels - a new
experience for most of us - we travelled non-stop to Istanbul, declining
Edinburgh's invitation to join them for a swim in the sea of Marmara on the
way. By 1630 we were at the gates of the city where we met Ned Yescombe of the
Oxford contingent. He was meant to be accompanying Brigitte and informed us
that she would not be arriving on the 0615 flight on Friday. The early morning
sortie had been in vain. It was now rush hour in Istanbul, but we carried on -
first making radio contact with the next coach. At the ferry we were waved on
to the head of the queue and set foot in Asia at 1930. Ned had collected our
mail from the British Embassy so we were able to catch up with news from
home.
The campsite was at the Institute of Education, and we found it
easily enough, but not without a wrong turning or two, and then radioed the
other coaches in. After dinner, we listened to reports of the Apollo splash
down on the coach radio before retiring early - apart from a few die-hards for
whom a visit to the 'local' was a tradition not to be neglected even in
Asia. |
Friday 25th July
A domestic day in camp fitting and covering coach seats. Celia and
Pat went into Istanbul to meet Brigitte who does not hold a British passport.
She had been unable to obtain alternative papers to pass through Yugoslavia -
so Comex had flown her out. A Yorkshire hospitality night was organised to
welcome her: campfire, baked potatoes, wine, Beatles music on tape and guests
from other contingents. Meanwhile, the men had organised a security guard for
the night - in response to some personal items found missing from the
tents. |
Saturday 26th July
We awoke to the sound of rain. It seems to be following us.
Breakfast of porridge, bread and jam, eaten on the coach and then a small group
from various contingents went into town to exchange money and, quote Maggie the
cook: 'to have a good meal.' Another group caught a Dormus (minibus) for a 15
minute hair-raising ride to the ferry, and to explore the other side of the
Bosporus . Most of the passengers on the ferry were sitting on one side, and it
was soon revealed why when the rain came pouring in from a missing window on
our side. The Turks, unsmiling, watched this bit of stupidity with incredulous
expressions.
Sally, Pete, Jenny, John from Kent, John from Yorkshire and Anita
decided to visit the bazaar. After following Pete's tourist map with little
success, they co-opted the services of a German speaking youth and asked him to
show them the way to a restaurant. Here the manager directed them towards the
kitchen (a not uncommon practice in Turkey) to inspect the food, which looked
absolutely delicious. And so it was - at the equivalent of 8 shillings a head.
But the bazaar itself was full of tourists, so they headed for what is known as
the 'Old Bazaar' - a more interesting prospect - and succeeded in losing Jennie
and John. There was nothing for it but to move on, through back streets - where
no women were to be seen, and the men were inclined to be hostile - to the Blue
Mosque.
 This
proved to be a convenient rendezvous for strays. We removed our shoes, as
bidden, and Sally and Anita were given long blue coats to wear. The floors were
covered in carpets and the ceiling inlaid with beautifully patterned ceramic
tiles. The mosque was built in 1609-1619 by order of Sultan Ahmet 1st, and is
the only Turkish mosque with six minarets. In due course we returned to the
ferry and climbed aboard Edinburgh for the journey back to camp. Apparently,
when Jenny and John had crossed the ferry they called a taxi and gave the
driver directions; but he drove them to the wrong place, and also managed to
get stuck in the mud - for which service he tried to charge them 60 liras. A
few Turks joined in the ensuing negotiations (also normal practice) and it was
resolved that the driver would take them to the right place - but for just 15
liras. After an evening of songs and wine around a campfire we settled down for
he night.
|
Sunday 27th July
There was a rehearsal after breakfast followed by a second visit
to town for some, and a quiet day for others - apart from the mechanics. The
coach had been on site since Thursday, and inactive, apart from excessive use
of its lights. Consequently, the battery was flat. A brother coach was
persuaded to lend a hand, and once started the mechanics decided to take the
coach out for a run to recharge the battery. We were thus able to transport a
few passengers (free) to the ferry and then continue along the waterfront for a
pleasant drive before returning to camp at about 1300.
We had tomato sandwiches for lunch, with a few chores to follow.
There was another rehearsal at 1830 and a meal at 1745. Some if us then went to
watch the Shakespeare rehearsal while a few slipped away to the local. Mike
Walker and John Nutland returned from having tea with a Turk who had been busy
brazing broken flagposts, and had apparently enjoyed the experience. |
Monday 28th July
We were up at 0415 for a 0615 start. Arriving at the outskirts of
Ankara at 1515 we drove on to the campsite, about three quarters of an hour's
drive south of the city, along a dirt road. An attractive looking lake turned
out to be part of a sewage disposal unit, so we reconnoitred the surrounding
area and found an open field alongside the road. After putting up the tent, the
banker made, for him, a bold suggestion: 'Let's have a big splash. We've got to
eat, even if we have to borrow the money.' The 'big splash' took place at 2030
after which we played cards, sang a few songs and went to bed. |
Tuesday 29th July
0400 was the time we should have been up, but it was 0500 before
anyone stirred. Breakfast of bread and jam and the boys took the tent down. We
set off at 0615 - only a quarter of an hour late. The road was steep and
twisting with a sheer drop on one side. The vegetation was sparse with little
clumps of grass dotted about. We stopped for diesel and air at a small garage,
and within a few minutes there were about 50 children around the coach. Val
tried to take a photograph but a man put his hand over the lens and pushed her
away. When the mechanic checked the air pressure gauge, he noticed that it was
made in Sheffield by Pneumatic Components.
The vegetation changed once more to farmland with acres of corn -
being threshed by throwing the grain in the air. We stopped in a small town for
the cooks to do some shopping, and to sample the local honey - complete with
honeycomb. And here the coach suffered its first dent from the hands of
children throwing stones. It was unpleasant, but to be expected. Lunch was at
1330 consisting of an ounce of salad with bread and jam, before Yorkshire took
on some Turkish boys at football.
We travelled along the coast until we reached the Teacher Training
College at Persembe out camp for the night. Some of us slept inside the college
on bunk beds and others in the tent. After a tiring day, everyone settled down
quickly with thoughts of another long day to come. The night was quiet and
still - apart from the gentle patter of rain. As it began to get heavier,
finding its way under the sides of the tent, precautions were taken: first by
making a channel to divert the water, and then by placing tent pegs under the
ground sheet to allow the water to pass freely.
About half an hour later the tent collapsed in pouring rain. The
boys ran out with torches and managed to re-erect it in about four inches of
mud. The guy ropes had become so taunt and the ground so muddy that the pegs
would not hold. Poor Pete Whaley was rudely awakened when the poles and the
Tilly lamp fell on him. Most sleeping bags were soaked. A lucky few found
places to sleep in the college leaving the rest to tidy up the mess. |
Wednesday 30th July
We were up at 0400. The rain would not let up, and a great
communal effort was required to ease the six coaches - parked on the football
field - down the narrow muddy track to the main road. Greg lent a light touch
to the proceedings by directing operations with an umbrella over his head. A
massive cleaning operation followed. Clothes, shoes, tents, poles and
groundsheets were washed in the Black Sea.
 The spot chosen
was also a sewage outlet, so the whole procedure had to be repeated elsewhere -
in the forecourt of a local café. The proprietor and locals were
extremely helpful, and Yorkshire emerged looking well satisfied, and cleaner
than its passengers. After a most enjoyable and inexpensive meal, we said
goodbye to Persembe at 0945.
Everyone was in high spirits. We were about 10 km from Trabzon, to
the east end of the Black Sea, when Greg came on the radio to ask if we would
like to camp at the American Air Force Base. We agreed enthusiastically and
arrived there at 1530. The Americans, taken by surprise, were very welcoming.
After cooking our evening meal most people found American companions for the
evening and a great time was had by all. |
Thursday 31st July
A late start at 1000. Showered, beautifully entertained, well fed,
and refreshed after a first rate overnight stop we were in a happy mood. Soon
after passing a sign saying Konak Pass - at about 1150 - a mile along the road
beyond Trabzon, a medium sized bolder came bouncing down from some houses on
the hillside. It smashed into the driver's side front wing damaging the grill,
the air ducts, and the angle iron supports. The accelerator pedal was also
jammed. Mike the driver, Pat and others saw the bolder coming but could do
nothing to avoid it.
We stopped at the first garage about 400 yards along the road to
tidy up the damage. Police Officer 25682 from Trabzon appeared in his car with
three other policemen within five minutes. (Ken had got a lift back into town
to report the incident.) The policeman didn't speak any English and left after
inspecting the damage - accompanied by Mike Walker and Ken. After a short while
they returned. Meanwhile, Lancaster stopped by and offered their condolences.
They had sustained a broken window near the same spot the day before - from a
smaller stone launched by catapult.
Celia was concerned about the insurance implications. Peter, the
mechanic, John Nutland and Trevor visited the four houses up the hill and found
a dry stone wall from which the boulder could have become dislodged -
accidentally or deliberately. At 1230, Newcastle pulled in to commiserate and
to examine the damage. The Trabzon police would not accept any responsibility
for an accident outside the city limits and gave us a certificate for insurance
purposes. Brigitte went on with Newcastle because she could not get her visa
for Iran at the consulate in Trabzon. She hoped to get it in Erzurum - the last
major city before the border.
We eventually decided to return to the USAF Base for repairs,
picking up the boulder on the way, and arrived there at 1255. The Americans
welcomed us back for another night and set to work producing spares and
generally helping to restore the damage. Most of the contingent went water
skiing in the afternoon and spent the evening singing in the club. The
Americans were marvellous, and seemed to enjoy having Comex 3 contingents
moving in and out of their base. Only one member of Comex 3 was American - Mary
Abendroth of Minneapolis - with the Keele University contingent. |
Friday 1st August
 We set off at 0400 with Oxford
and S Andrews, and stopped at the scene of the accident to look for part of the
radiator we had not collected the previous day, but without luck. Progress
through the mountains was slow and the surrounding vegetation sparse. Lunch
amounted to a slice of bread with meat paste and tomato, followed by a slice of
bread and marmalade - eaten on the side of the road while watching a group of
children.
We passed through a number of small villages with equally small
shops, crowded and badly lit. The further east we travelled, the more the women
appeared to be completely covered, with only their eyes showing. Their clothes,
made of heavy material, must have been extremely hot. All this was new to us
travelling far away from home for the first time.
We lost radio contact with Oxford and St Andrews: we could hear
them but they could not hear us. To re-establish contact, we had to go back
along the road and in turning lost the back bumper in a pothole. But we did
join both contingents for tea and camped the night with them. Food consisted of
fresh meat, green beans, potatoes, and onion stew. And it was much
appreciated. |
Saturday 2nd August - Turkey - Iran (Tabriz)
 After
breakfast we left ahead of the other two coaches at about 0430. Two Frenchmen
who had spent the night with us having broken the front axle of their car -
also in a pothole - moved out ahead. In Agri, at the foot of the hills, we
checked the level of diesel and decided we would need a couple of gallons to
get us over the border to the cheaper fuel in Iran. Passing Mount Ararat en
route we stopped for a crew change and pictures
Arriving at the border post near Bazargan, we were reunited with
Brigette who had managed to get her visa and was travelling with Greg. Border
formalities completed we left at 1230 stopping in the town for lunch in the
grounds of a local café. The proprietor was most amused and allowed us
to wash up in his kitchen. We had some coffee - by way of a change - put our
clocks forward an hour and left at 1530 for Tabriz. The road was well surfaced
and we made good time arriving at 2000; pitched tent on a terraced hill by the
campsite and, after a delicious evening meal, slept under the stars for the
first time since leaving Zagreb. |
Sunday 3rd August
Left camp at 0600. The road was full of potholes, and men working
on it. Progress was slow. By 1030 the surface improved but the countryside was
more like a desert. At 1130 Trevor saw two carpets lying on the road - off the
back of a lorry perhaps - and jumped out to load them on board. Some motor
cyclists had observed this and pursued us. A few hundred yards on we came to a
village and saw two men standing in the middle of the road. Martin, who was
driving, had to stop and Trevor threw the carpets to them. (We had not realised
that it is quite normal for carpets to be left on the road.) There was a loo
stop at 1400 and everyone was in high spirits with Ken, up front, and John at
the back engaged in a duel with water pistols.
We were due to rendezvous at 1800 at a place called Karaj, on the
outskirts of Tehran. And sure enough a police escort was waiting to lead the
first seven contingents through the city to the campsite at Manzariah, a hill
overlooking Tehran. At about 2250, while some of us were trying to sleep to the
sound of very loud Arab music relayed through the camp, the music suddenly
stopped. Mike Walker had cut the connecting wire in two places. |
Monday 4th August - Tehran
After four days without a break we had a lie in until 0900 and
looked forward to having a swim, but the pool was being cleaned. Looking around
the camp we found excellent facilities: a bank, post office, shop, showers, and
a medical tent, all specially put in place for Comex.
Anita, Ben and John were singing in the evening at the Youth
Palace in Tehran so they had to leave at 1330, with members from other the
contingents, for a rehearsal. The audience, meant to include some ambassadors,
was mainly of students. And they sang only one song by themselves - the show
was running an hour late - before joining the main choir for the rest of the
programme. Back in camp, Pete Waley and Ken, with John from Kent, played
basketball at a school near by, and had tea there. After tea, the three boys
with whom they had been playing came back to camp and spent the evening
teaching us Persian words. |
Tuesday 5th August - In camp at Tehran
We were awake early. It was hot, with insects hopping about and
flies landing on our faces. A few sunbathed before breakfast and all had a very
refreshing cold shower. Breakfast at 0900 and then everyone dispersed: some to
their contingent duties, others to go sightseeing and a few to do nothing. We
spent the best part of the morning, while it was not too hot, working slowly.
Then, following a light lunch of chapattis, jam and fruit, most of us succumbed
to the local custom of an afternoon siesta.
Because Anita, Ben and John were billed to appear again in an
evening performance at anotherYouth Palace in Tehran, we had an early meal.
They left at 1700 for rehearsals and the whole contingent followed at 1800. We
arrived outside the Youth Palace at 1900 and after wandering around for a bit
went in. There was a concrete apron stage with the audience seated around three
sides. It was well lit and had a public address system. The performance was
well received by the Iranians, but the most popular item was the appearance of
a local pop group. Four young men simply beat out a rhythm on pots held between
their knees, and it is amazing how compelling the sound was. They also
simulated the noise of a train. An equally popular item was our own pop group
of Anita, John and Ben who sang really well to great applause. At the end of
the performance the choirmaster, John Stevens, invited all Comex members to
join in singing KumbaYa. It was very well received and provided a fitting end
to a good evening. Afterwards, we were treated to some typical Iranian
hospitality of fruit, nuts and sweets, and returned to camp by
midnight. |
Wednesday 6th August
It was a most enjoyable day. There were some domestic chores of
course, but also some swimming and visits into Tehran. Our folk singing group
was asked to perform in the evening for a VIP audience. It was to be at the
same Youth Palace but in the grounds previously barred. Anita reports:
'The grounds were set around a miniature lake - the habitat of
swans and pelicans - with a connecting bridge to the building where we changed
into smart clothes. We followed the Scottish dancers who were first on to great
applause, and then the Newcastle rapper dancers, making an excellent contrast
with their Scottish compatriots. The singing was well received too and most of
it familiar to the audience. Afterwards, the Iranians sang and danced, and
their pop group was extremely popular. Cold drinks were provided throughout.
The audience clearly represented the more conservative elite, with a sprinkling
of the Iranian jet set. They were all beautifully dressed in modern western
clothes, and were very friendly. Some of them had visited Britain or were
studying there.
'The appreciative eye caught sight of tables spread with exotic
Iranian food: stuffed tomatoes, a variety of vegetables and chello
kabab (rice and kebab), which is perhaps the best known Iranian dish.
The rice was certainly of a quality we had never seen or tasted before. And
there were the usual fruit, sweets and nuts. We listened to speeches (in
English), enjoyed the hospitality, and then changed before leaving at about
2300.'
While our companions were enjoying themselves at the Youth Palace,
we were entertained to an exhibition by 25 'champions': Iranian gymnasts. They
were extremely muscular and one was about seven foot tall, a giant of a man.
Another was 88 years old, and he performed complicated press ups to the rhythm
of a drum - from the hands of a master who chanted instructions throughout the
show - just as efficiently as the younger champions. They were dressed in
patterned knickerbockers with green towels draped round their shoulders. The
towels were discarded as soon as the exercising began. After prolonged press
ups, one of the champions performed a series of swinging and juggling exercises
with a 50 kilo club. Following this, the 'giant' and two others lay on their
backs lifting 150 kilo weights - one in each hand. We had never seen anything
like this, anywhere, and cheered appreciatively.
To bed at 2230 - with the prospect of an early start in the
morning. Expected time of departure 0300. But we were not ready before 0500 - a
delay attributed to the inefficiency of the 'other' contingents! A friendly
discussion ensued, and that led to a further delay of half an hour. |
Thursday 7th August - Tehran - Shah Pasand
 It was the
beginning of the rush hour and not the best time for 20 coaches in close convoy
to be challenging the right of way of the indigenous people. But we had a
police escort, which added an aura of prestige to out passing, and were feeling
rather good in our Comex livery. This encouraged us to wave - and the waving
was cheerfully returned. About an hour out of town the police flagged us down
and advised that we remain in close convoy for the next 90 km to Amol -
crossing the Taurus mountains. We tried, but the convoy soon broke up: some
contingents to refuel and others to go shopping.
The houses were beginning to change from stone and brick to mud;
many of them with doomed roofs; and the villages themselves were encircled by
mud walls with ornate doors and grills set in them. Passing through one village
we were bombarded with mud, fruit and sewage water - an odd mixture - the
latter finding its way through the small open windows of the coach. The
contradiction here is that waving children also enjoy throwing stones.
The rest of the journey was uneventful and we arrived at Shah
Pasand (Shah's Pleasure) at 1630. Provisions were bought, and as we had stopped
outside a chai shop it was obligatory to sample the local brew, made all the
more pleasant with waiter service operating between shop and coach. The camp
was only a few hundred yards down the road, and for the first time since
leaving Nottingham we were able to put up the tent in the light. It was hot, so
the tent was erected with the two halves end to end and the flaps rolled up.
One side was left completely open. The tents had in fact been designed with
such contingencies in mind.
Hillary had not been well, and was attended to by Dr Ennis. He
advised Val to keep her cool. Meanwhile, Martin was trying to get into the
Guinness book or records for drinking coke at four bottles in the hour. The
insects here were enormous, much bigger than elsewhere. One of the lads from a
fellow contingent had adopted one, which looked very much like a cricket, for a
pet and it made its home inside his jumper for the rest of the evening. It had
to be an early night, but the heat made it a restless one. |
Friday 8th August - Shah Pasand - Mashad
We set off at 0530 - half an hour late. But we had a good
breakfast, and plenty of it. After ten minutes we took a wrong turning but were
radioed back into line. The road was very dusty and bumpy and we were averaging
between 20 and 25 miles per hour. After a loo stop and crew change at 0740, the
road improved, the scenery changed with green trees and distant hills
overlooking the Caspian Sea. There was less dust too. Greg's car passed at 0800
- he had driven overnight from Tehran with the Afghan passports. Once again the
road deteriorated and remained that way until we reached Bodjnurd at 1245 where
we stopped for shopping. The climate was pleasant and we had lunch on the move,
at 1330, followed by a melon and loo stop, and a crew change.
At 1445 we hit a bump in the road and landed in a ditch. We piled
out to have a look, but there were no visible signs of damage and we were ready
to move on. But the mechanics thought we should stop at the next village to
tighten the bolts under the chassis. The locals here were welcoming and we
stayed with them - always an opportunity to exchange experiences and learn
something about the country - until 1645. They were amused by our unexpected
presence and cheered us on when we left. Arrived in Mashad without further
incident and found that we were to camp in the Shah's park. However, we were
not allowed on the lawns and had to pitch tent on the gravel path - perfectly
satisfactory - and then proceeded to cook the evening meal. After a tiring day
it was early to bed for most of us, but a few set off to explore the
surroundings and spent some time talking to the many policemen on duty to guard
us. |
Saturday 9th August - Mashad - Herat
Breakfast at 0645 and we left camp at 0720. A quick tour of the
town before we hit the road for Herat. But an unfortunate wrong turn at 1030
led us away on a detour of about 40 miles. We had become used to this sort of
thing and the mistake was soon corrected. At 1400 Ken was feeling poorly so we
rigged up an Aslam hammock * at the back of the
coach to make him more comfortable. The men held it in place, Val administered
tablets, while others fanned him, and kept him cool with damp towels. We tried
to contact Dr Ennis without success. Everyone else seemed perfectly well and
cheerful.
There were plenty of road works, not just picks and shovels
either: bulldozers and earth movers were operating in force. With luck some of
the new sections of road would be ready for use on our return journey. Most of
the men wore white turbans with loose shirts and coloured baggy trousers -
often with a waistband. They waved and laughed as we passed. And when we
stopped to do some shopping, a policeman firmly dispersed the crowd gathering
around Maggie and John.
About 6 miles from the Afghan border we went through a fascinating
village surrounded by a mud wall with small bastions dotted along its length -
like a medieval fortress. The houses had interconnected round roofs, with
fan-shaped window lights above the entrance. At 1541 an ambulance met us and a
doctor came on board to examine Ken. He spoke French only but managed to make
himself understood. He gave us some pills, vitamin tablets, liquid for
gargling, and left with the reassurance that Ken would be all right in 5 to 6
hours.
We got the passports ready for the border, picked up some petrol
and left at 1625 - passing a fenced-in Iranian hospital unit in tents just
outside the town boundary - and then moved onto a dirt road: straight, flat,
windy and empty. There were no people, no animals, no huts; just telegraph
wires and what looked like a better-surfaced road running parallel to ours. We
reached the border at 1745 and were through in half an hour. An Afghan soldier
came aboard just as we were leaving and was offered a seat. We drove on into
the dusk when, at about 1900, he signalled us to take another road. Assuming
that he was a guide we turned, but with considerable difficulty which led John
Smith, the driver, and Jenny, the navigator, to conclude that he was in reality
hitching a lift - at his convenience. No further prompting was necessary; he
got out and disappeared into the night, and we turned back onto the original
road.
At the outskirts of Herat we found ourselves driving through a
magnificent avenue of poplars for about 5 miles, leading straight to the
airport where we camped on the tarmac in the full glare of searchlights. Some
of us enjoyed an impromptu concert given by an Afghan trio in the hallway
before going to sleep at around 0100. But not having put our watches forward at
the border the time was in fact 0200.
* The Aslam Hammock was designed in
the workshops of a garage off the Mall Road in Lahore by the elder son (Aslam)
of the owner, ex-soldier Mohammad Hussain. Unfortunately, the idea was never
developed. All the Comex 3 coaches were serviced in Mohammad Hussain's garage.
His younger son (Saleem) was later sponsored to represent Pakistan on Comex as
chief mechanic. |
Sunday 10th August - Herat - Kandahar
During breakfast at the airport in Herat there seemed to be a
little uncertainty about the journey to Kandahar. So, after clearing up and
packing we decided to go into town for John the banker to change some money,
and to replace our broken water containers. No sooner had we parked than there
was a rush for the shops selling Afghan coats. The object was to find out how
much money would need to be saved in order to buy one on the return journey. It
was not easy looking without buying, but we had all agreed that carrying these
coats all the way to India and back would not be a good idea.
 The main problem
in Herat was that the moment six coaches hit town prices were doubled, even
trebled for embroidered skirts. Ken was still suffering from the heat but
managed to get out of the coach for long enough to buy English cigarettes -
cheaper here than on the boat. After a while we returned to the coach and set
off.
We arrived at the hotel where we were to camp at 2205 but were not
happy about it. The toilets were filthy and the kitchen was situated opposite
them. Added to this, the charges per head were extortionate. We decided
therefore to camp outside the town, and found a suitable site off the road - in
the desert - and radioed the other contingents to join us at 'Camp Yorkshire'.
The camp was comfortable enough; but fell short of the prescribed standards of
Nottingham or Manzariah. After a meal of egg curry, we settled down for the
night - in tribal territory and without incident. |
Monday 11th August - Kandahar to Kabul
We were up at 0715, had breakfast and packed up. St Andrews
arrived at 0930 with Dr Ennis on board. Ken was still not well and we were
worried about him. A few members of the contingent had diarrhoea and others
appeared to be developing similar symptoms. We finally left for Kabul at 1045
with only 18 people on the coach, including Angie from Oxford, who was nursing
Ken, and Karen from Manchester who was quite ill. We had plenty of room for the
sick having deployed one or two members elsewhere. Lunch on the move at 1300,
was one of the most enjoyable so far: rice, delicious tomatoes and cucumber,
with chapattis and refreshing melon slices.
We stopped at 1515 in the town of Gazni for shopping. There were
beautiful fur goods in the shops tucked away behind the main street, where we
were entertained by a local tourist policeman. He told us that many of the
goods made here would be cheaper than in Istanbul, and we were easily persuaded
to make our purchases there on the way back. The chai too was very refreshing,
very hot and very cheap. We left for Kabul at 1630 and arrived at the outskirts
at 1730 to join the rest of the convoy. There was a choice of campsite: one in
Kabul, on the banks of the Kabul river next to the zoo, and the other 15 km out
of town at Quarga Dam. We chose the latter and arrived at dusk. The first task
was to reclaim our missing members, and then pitch tent, before preparing a
leisurely meal. |
Wednesday 13th August - Kabul
 Breakfast at 0800.
The coach went into town to collect the new front flown out from London. Pete
and Andrew, the mechanics, were informed that an invoice was needed which could
be collected from the City Office, but found there that this vital piece of
paper had already been sent to the British Embassy. The embassy meanwhile had
sent it with the Comex mail an hour before they arrived. When it was finally
run to ground, they were promised a rendezvous at the 'zoo' camp at 1400, with
officials from the Tourist Board and the British Embassy, to assist in getting
the crate cleared through customs.
At 1430, Greg turned up with a letter from the tourist board
requesting a waiver on customs duty. But the President of customs would not go
along with this and added his own note to the letter - which was never
translated. The negotiating body then returned to the airport reconciled to pay
the duty - which, inevitably, came to much more than had been anticipated.
Although Greg produced the extra money, it was by then too late to collect the
crate: the bank was closed, and the customs office due to follow in five
minutes. A thoroughly dispirited party returned to camp.
By contrast, a stronger and more determined detachment was out
buying embroidered shirts, hats and coats, and topping that with a meal at the
Khyber Restaurant - blissfully unaware that their comrades back in camp were
without food or water. However, all were invited, along with the rest of Comex
3 to see the film of the Apollo Moon Landing at the American Library, and
followed that with lunch in town.
While this was going on a splinter group headed by Pat, with
Maggie, Jenny and Regina, broke away to have lunch with an Afghani family. Pat
reports: 'Smartly dressed, we were ready at 1100. Looking equally smart, our
hosts arrived in Ibrahim's Volvo - standing in for his Mercedes awaiting a
spare part. It was a wonderful day being entertained by four charming young men
to lunch, Afghan style, sheltered by vines and sitting on a carpet surrounded
by cushions. We were waited on by male servants and served with pilau, spiced
dishes, chapattis and water.
After the meal we rested, smoked and enjoyed the music, rode on a
grey horse and strolled in the gardens. Tea arrived at 1630. Hadi, who was
going to Czechoslovakia in ten days to study architecture, does not smoke in
front of his father. When the latter appeared, the men leapt to their feet and
remained standing until one of the servants brought him a chair. Nasim's
mother, who had prepared our meal, did not appear. Nasim is to study
engineering in Poland. Sheri Allah, who doesn't speak English but is supposed
to understand it, is dedicated too body building. Ibrahim took the initiative
throughout. He had spent 20 months in the United States and enjoyed it
immensely. His father had recalled him to do his year's military service, which
he had half finished, and hoped to come to London to study engineering. We
returned to camp in time for the evening's cultural performance, which they
seemed to enjoy, and left soon afterwards with every courtesy. We had stew for
supper and retired at midnight. |
Thursday August 14th - Kabul
 Left camp at 0700
heading for Kabul Airport with 6 Indian members refused visas to enter
Pakistan. They had to fly to Amritsar and rejoin Comex 3 at the Indian border.
We also had to clear the grill and other spare parts (the crate) through
customs, and to prepare space for them in the coach. Repairs would have to wait
for a suitable opportunity in Pakistan. For Nadia, Regina and Dana there was a
more pleasing experience; they met and enjoyed an interesting conversation with
two Afghani engineers - in Czech - who had spent six years in Prague doing an
engineering course. They were returning to Prague the following week, which
made the girls not a little envious.
 At 1055 Celia dashed
up to the coach and announced that the spares had been cleared. Cheers from
everyone as we finally left Kabul at 1200 - the spare parts stacked along the
aisle of the coach: an inconvenience eased by unloading a few members onto the
other coaches. At 1800 we arrived at the Pakistan border (Thorkam), cleared it
and moved on to the Khyber Pass, arriving at that famous landmark in history at
1905 - five minutes after it had closed. We took
with us only happy memories of Afghanistan, where the Kabul Times had described
Comex 3 as 'A Commonwealth Village on Wheels'.
The officer on duty was pleased to inform us that, as we were
special guests, permission had been given for us to 'pass freely'. He also
warned us not to stop on any account as we would be driving through tribal
territory, adding that some gates might be closed and urged us to hurry -
without solving that dilemma.
 The sun
was setting as we drove off, ghoulishly reminding each other of massacres, wild
animals, guns, knife happy bandits and other tourist attractions! On the other
hand, there was the glorious sunset, the magnificent scenery, the new road -
bumpy perhaps, but excellent by comparison with its predecessor running
alongside - and adventurous traffic hazards, to mitigate against immediate
anxiety. The traffic consisted of highly decorated lorries, over-loaded taxis,
and some private cars racing through the twilight before darkness fell. And, of
course, there was the largest single convoy to cross the Khyber in peace for
the others to contend with. Our driver, Martin Bennett, was the hero of the
hour for driving into the Pakistan checkpoint, on the outskirts of Peshawar, in
total darkness. Here we were told to unload any fruit and vegetables on board -
even grapes - before moving to our accommodation for the night in the
university.
500 beds had been set out on the grass around a central fountain.
It was a remarkable gesture of hospitality, and we were invited to make
ourselves at home, which we did by preparing an evening meal, and then washing
up before settling down at about midnight. At 0100 the rain came. We scrambled
within five minutes and carried our beds to the shelter of the surrounding
patio and settled down - with little difficulty - for the second time. There
were no further incidents, apart from Pat being disturbed twice by a shadowy
figure which vanished when she stirred. It could have been a friendly night
watchman. |
Friday 15th August - Peshawar - Rawalpindi - Murree Hills
 After the gentle
rain during the night it was hot and humid, and we were up early for a
breakfast of melon and coffee, before leaving the university at 0945 for
Rawalpindi. Stopping in Peshawar on the way for immediate essentials, and a
crew change, we pressed on arriving in Rawalpindi at 1315, and parked in a
shopping centre to load up with supplies for four days. A large crowd gathered
around the coach. It was not a particularly friendly crowd, but there were no
serious incidents. We finally left at 1515 and joined the rest of the convoy a
few miles outside Rawalpindi so that the film unit could take some shots. After
driving along a new road lined with impressive embassy buildings, we began the
journey up into the Murree Hills.
 It took two and a half hours -
in a never ending climb - to reach a point about 10 miles from the main town.
But the last few miles were even hillier, and the final section quite
dangerous. Even so, the journey itself was refreshing and the scenery
breathtakingly beautiful. We arrived at Kanspur, where we were to be
accommodated - in the summer quarters of Lahore University, a few miles beyond
the cantonment town of Murree - at about 1930, and established our kitchen on
the verandah outside a row of dormitories shared by all the contingents. It was
very military in a way, and would require a lot of patience in the days ahead.
Nevertheless, we were looking forward to the prospect of a good rest in an old
hill station (well known to the British) where it was quite cool, making a
welcome change from the heat of the plains below.
|
Saturday 16th August - Murree Hills
We awoke at 1000. Breakfasted on scramble eggs and chapattis, did
some washing, and attended to the sick. Regina, John and Celia cleaned the
coach thoroughly - inside and out. The menu for lunch was jam, meat paste,
marmite and chapattis, followed by a heavy downpour. A group of Pakistani
teachers visited the camp to discover what this invasion was all about. We
chatted with them for a while and photographs were taken. On the whole, it was
an uneventful day and the evening was no better: stew for the 29th time. There
were letters to write, and some singing practice. We also discussed the route
back in the light of the experiences we had just come through, but to no
specific purpose - apart from reviewing what we had done, or failed to do. John
Shere was invited back for chai by a visiting Pakistani and enjoyed himself
very much. Ben's back was covered with huge bites to which Val attended, and
Steve took photographs of us hunting for mosquitoes. We retired at 2200.
|
Sunday 17th August - Murree Hills
 Once again we got up late for a
slow and hearty breakfast at 0830, very much enjoyed by everyone. The morning
was spent carrying out sundry duties and helping to organise, and staff, our
own field hospital. This was in its way a triumph, and greatly appreciated by
all in need of medical attention. In their turn, our mechanics decided to
replace the damaged glass fibre front of the coach - an equally heroic effort -
in readiness for the journey to India. To these noble tasks the ensuing days
were committed.
|
|
The following is an extract from Greg's book
Crying Drums to which Prince Philip contributed the foreword:
The Murree Hills povided the perfect
resting place for Comex 3. The cool mountain air so very much like England in
Autumn, rambles in the wooded mountainside, rides on the chair lifts and
horses, and friendly exchanges with the locals. It is as such a resting place
that Farid Rahman, Chairman of the Murree Hills Trust, hopes to see the
district flourish, so that people may once more find employment and a means of
living at a higher standard………
The film crew had collected a lot of
material for the Comex 3 film but still required a number of interviews and
musical recordings. Singers, dancers and musicians assembled in rooms or in
coaches to rehearse. Shakespeare players walked among the trees to read parts
or take to the foil. It was all very
satisfactory………
In this remote place a canteen,
presumably once part of a military establishment, with a tailor's shop, barber
and general store next door, supplied our needs of coffee and light
refreshments, and occasionally more substantial fare of chicken or mutton,
eggs, vegetables and chapattis. Tea and coffee were available night and day.
The canteen became a community centre and the operations room of our village on
wheels………
The 'Old Man of Kanspur', as we called
him, who ran the canteen had some words of wisdom for his customers: 'The birth
of Pakistan was for us a very great event, and for many the beginning of a new
life - even a new world. But for most of us in these hills it was difficult to
see any difference. Your people left and many long friendships came to an end.
With thanks to God we live; but we can only be truly happy if the values of the
past and present are brought together, and the future built on them. You know
our people; we have been friends for many years. Why don't you buy this camp,
then people from Britain can come every year. Yes, sahib, let them all come,
even from India………
A few days before we left Kanspur we
had our first emergency. Ruth Spencer of the St Andrews contingent was rushed
to Murree proper with suspected appendicitis. One immediately thought of a
military hospital, a common feature of hill stations in this part of the world.
Here we found Major Miah, F.R.C.S. Edinburgh. Two hours later Ruth, herself a
medical student, was sound asleep minus appendix, and three days later took her
place on the coach stretched across the back seat on an Aslam Hammock. On the
way down from Kanspur, Comex 3 divided into two groups. The main body headed
towards Lahore, and the remainder, with a few individuals switched around, went
to the studios of Pakistan Television in Rawalpindi. Rehearsals lasted seven
hours but the half-hour programme was well worth the effort. An unexpected fee
of a thousand rupees was handed over to the
university………
A second emergency in Lahore (where we
were now camped in the Stadium) brought Rosamund Peck of Oxford to hospital
with a more serious abdominal complaint. An American surgeon operated in a
mission hospital near the stadium and she was later flown
home. |
Friday 22nd August - Lahore to Delhi
 After mentally
setting the alarm clocks we awoke at 0630 to a breakfast of two slices of bread
and marmalade. Steve, Trevor and Ken had half packed the coach the previous
evening so we were able to get away by 0730.
The scenery is still quite green, the road dusty and bumpy -
despite the tarmac. We arrived at the Pakistan border at about 1030 by which
time the temperature in the coach was very high. Two small stalls at the side
of the road, selling limes, and crispy food in one ounce portions at 25 paise
each caught out attention. In about half an hour we were cleared and moved on
to join the long line of vehicles waiting at the Indian border. There was a
warm welcome here and everyone was given free cokes. Ken had caught the sun
again and was taken to the bank to rest on a bed of straw. He later returned to
the Aslam Hammock.
At 1425 we stopped at a town called Wagha to shop. The dress was
different again - men wearing brightly coloured turbans, some with the end
hanging down the back. A small crowd gathered outside the coach, but the people
were very friendly and chatted to us through the windows. At 1530 we had banana
sandwiches. Ben was driving and there were calls for loo stops every 20 miles.
This may have had something to do with the crispy food earlier. At 2000 we
stopped to buy some curried pastries, reckoning it would be late before we
could stop for a proper meal.
The funniest event of the day was when a loo stop was called for
John. By the time the message got through to the driver we had stopped directly
outside Delhi Gate - no disrespect intended. Ahead of us was the Rabindra
Rangshala, our main base in India at the end, as Greg would say, of a long
dusty road. The time was 2300. Tired and hungry, we had arrived without any
major mishaps. Some Indian students were already there to greet us, and
together we had a meal in camp. Everyone ate Indian food, bananas and ice
cream, and drank coffee. Ken was taken to see the camp doctor who arranged for
him to go to the local hospital. For the rest of us, unable to find the tents
allocated toYorkshire, it was a night on the lawn - under the stars. |
Saturday 23rd August - Camp in Delhi
 We were up early in
time for the set breakfast followed by a regional meeting at 0900. But the
latter was delayed until Celia returned from another meeting. Meanwhile, a few
of us spent the time cleaning the coach in readiness for the main event of the
day: a ceremonial drive in convoy, with a police escort, to Mahatma Gandhi's
tomb, and then along Raj Path towards the Government Secretariat.
We drove through the gates of the Delhi University and twice
around the main square to the encouraging cheers of the students. Back in camp
by 1500 for tea - which had been cancelled in favour of an invitation to join
Manchester, Sussex and Newcastle at the Indian Centre for Cultural Relations.
It was a welcome break and began with a Buddhist blessing to which Greg
responded on our behalf. We then entertained our hosts to a short cultural
programme - well received - although Ben had to sing on his own because Nita
was back in camp nursing John. Coffee and snacks were served, and we left to
return to the Rangshala at 2000. In that short time we had all found people of
exceptional interest to talk too and were disappointed having to leave.
After another spicy meal in camp - too hot for some - a regional
meeting was held at 2200 to discuss the programme for the following day. The
first priority for us was to have our brakes fixed - a proposition we put to
the Manchester mechanics who agreed to help: Pete having gone with Durham, and
John and Andrew both feeling unwell. We planned to leave for Agra at 1600 the
following day. |
Sunday 24th August - Delhi - Agra
As we were not leaving until the cool of the evening, we decided
to do as little as possible and just rest. Some of us pottered around the camp
for a bit, John set to with the Manchester mechanics - while others watches
appreciatively - and a few disappeared into town by rickshaw for a meal. When
we reassembled at 1600, the buzz went round that we would be leaving in an hour
- just enough time to shower, pack up and get ready for the four hour
journey.
A few members of the Sussex coach joined us for the next few days
replacing Mike, who was staying in Delhi to get a visa for Nepal; Ken, who was
still in hospital; Dana, who preferred to remain in Delhi; Val, who was
travelling with Moor on the Glasgow coach; and Pat, who had a return ticket to
visit some old friends in Pondicherry.
Now a depleted contingent, we had made friends with a group of
Indians one of whom, Roshan, was delighted to be asked to join us. Her parents
were a little apprehensive at first but soon warmed to the idea. We also had a
guest from Delhi University - arranged by the Comex India Committee - to help
deal with any problems over communication.
 The
plan was that we should try and make it all the way to Nagpur, but in the end
decided not to risk the coach going so far having just restored its
roadwortiness. Newcastle was happy to take over that schedule, and Celia sent a
message to Nagpur explaining the change. Our own plan then was to stay a few
days in Agra and return to Delhi in order that Ken could rejoin us.
Having thus rearranged the timetable, we set off at 1800 with four
additional people on board who wanted a lift as far as Agra. It was now quite a
coach full, but the journey uneventful and we were in Agra by 2200 to find nine
other coaches already in position at the Gandhi Stadium. Having decided to see
the Taj my moonlight the following evening, we retired after a late meal in
convivial company. |
Tuesday 26th August - In camp at Agra
Up early, we breakfasted well and then set off for an ancient
village about 25 miles away called Fatepur Sikhri. It was built by Emperor
Akbar during the Mogul period, and all the palaces with associated buildings
had taken over five years to complete, but were only occupied for ten years
before the emperor decided to return to Agra. On the way we stopped at the
Central Telegraph Office to telephone Delhi and ask after Ken. We also wanted
to inform the Comex India Committee of our intention to visit Jaipur if
possible, and they promised to try and arrange for us to stay at the
university. We also learnt that Ken was well and would be remaining in
Delhi.
Arrived at Fatipur a little after 1030 and spent a really
fascinating two hours admiring its beautiful palaces built in red stone, and
the magnificent gates at the entrance to the mosque. In the courtyard, a white
marble shrine to mortality, as beautiful as the Taj, testified to the
craftsmanship of its creators. We left at 1230 to return to the stadium for
lunch. Although it was very hot, the adventurous spirit, 'the finest quality of
youth ', it has been said, wandered off to do some sight seeing - even to visit
the Taj by daylight, and the Red Fort, which most agreed was equally
impressive. As ever the local markets provided much of the entertainment -
whether buying souvenirs or just bargaining for them. After a delicious
Czechoslovakian supper we watched a cultural performance given by Yorkshire,
Bristol and Birmingham - the latter staying at the Medical College. It seemed
to go down well. |
Wednesday 27th August - Agra - Jaipur
We left for Jaipur at 0900. Mike Venables wished to stay on in
Agra and would not be coming with us. On the way we stopped in a village - 'the
hospitable face of India' - to buy fruit and cold drinks. It was hot, but we
arrived in the Pink City at 1130 without incident. Although not expected at the
university's Guest House, we received a warm welcome and a cold drink, and
offered part of the roof as sleeping quarters. Edinburgh were already in
occupation as the official guests. Manchester, also staying here, reported that
the roof was comfortable, cool and breezy.
After a short rest and a contingent lunch, most of us went into
town by any available means - some in the cars of our hosts, and others by
cycle or scooter rickshaw. We were told to eat at the bank's expense in town,
and given the name of a recommended restaurant, so most people met there and
ate together. We managed to see quite a bit of Jaipur during the first evening,
if only to wander along the streets, in the bazaar and even from this
perspective, to appreciate why Jaipur is called the Pink City. |
Thursday 28th August - Jaipur
 We were up early,
had breakfast and left to pick up some of the Indian girls - student's from the
Maharani's Girl College - who were to take us to see the Amber Palace a few
miles out of the city. It was situated high on a hill with a large courtyard in
which there were two or three elephants. Some of us had a ride and thoroughly
enjoyed it. A coke stop at the bottom of the hill was much enjoyed too. On the
way through town we bought some provisions, and invited the girls to lunch,
following which there was some singing by hosts and guests, in addition to the
tape recorder providing the pop music that the girls wanted to hear.
 At
1630 the elephants from the Amber Palace arrived unexpectedly to give everyone
free rides. When Sally asked Ben if he was getting a rickshaw into town he
replied: 'No, I'm opting for an elephant.' And she believed him when she saw
its presence marked by huge piles of dirt on the guest house lawn. In the
evening we saw two films in Jaipur and spent the rest of the day chatting to
the students. Anita and John even tried to teach one of them to dance the
waltz.
|
Saturday 30th August - Jaipur
We slept till 0900. After a shower and breakfast individuals went
their own ways with friends, sightseeing and shopping. Amrish and Joshi, two
students with whom Nadia and Regina, Hilary, Anita, John and Pete had become
friends called at 0930 to take us out for the day. We first went to the guest
house of the company where Amrish's father worked. It was out of this world:
marble tiled with three bathrooms, and priceless works of art along the walls
and shelves. We sat on the floor with cups of tea and enjoyed a wide ranging
discussion. Amrish took us out in one of the many cars to Niros before visiting
the museums. We tried a glass of sugarcane juice - made by crushing the
sugarcane, and then adding fresh lemon juice and ice. We were then taken to
Joshi's for a cup of tea before setting off to a place that no one else on
Comex would see - the Graveyard of the Kings of Gattor. Amrish told us that
though it was in Jaipur, even people who had lived there all their lives did
not know about it. Joshi had not heard about it either.
Gottor is approached through a small village, just two or three
miles from the city centre, and surrounded by hills with a fort on top. The
guide was a very old man who showed us round the beautifully carved temples of
this 400 year old burial ground, still in excellent condition. A series of
ivory carvings around one of the temples told a story Amrish suggested we try
to remember - before taking us to see the structured models which inspired
them.
The setting sun cast a pink glow over the village, enveloping the
Graveyard of the Kings in an aura of mystery. And we might have stayed for
hours revelling in the sheer magic of the place, had not our hosts another
surprise in store: dinner with Amrish's parents to celebrate John's birthday.
After a quick look around the bazaar, Amrish showed us a sari he had bought for
his mother made of gold thread but with a plain border which, of course, she
would not wear, saving it instead for Amrish's wife - when he got married.
The meal was delicious, with an exotic rice pudding - slightly
flavoured and with a mild perfume. We were entertained to some card tricks and
then taken for a drive. We sang a few songs, and they sang some in Hindi
including one written by Amrish. It was a wonderful day; a day to remember, and
when we said goodbye at about 2300 it was in the knowledge that we might never
see them again. |
Monday 1st September
Breakfast at 0930 in the camp restaurant: porridge, eggs and tea.
During the day other contingents began rolling in, and our own to reassemble.
Peter Harvey and Celia had returned from Madras. It was a 'casual' day. Pete
and Ben went to the embassies for visa forms; and after a meal of potatoes,
peppers and tomatoes, cooked by Nadia and Regina, we had an interesting meeting
to select a new leader. As Steve had acted as leader while Celia was in Madras,
and had done a good job, we agreed (without disrespect to Celia) that Steve was
probably the more capable - due perhaps to having been on various committees at
university. So we voted on this and Steve was elected. We then thought to vote
on whether he should have a trial period of two weeks but decided instead to
endorse him for the duration. Iranian visas forms were still to be completed
before retiring.
A camp routine was quickly established. Everyone had breakfast
together - fried eggs, boiled eggs or omelette, and tea - before joining their
respective groups for rehearsals in preparation for the Commonwealth Youth
Festival organised by the Comex India Committee. |
1-7 September - Commonwealth Youth Festival.
The following summary of events is taken
from, Crying Drums:
Comex 3 had been told to be back in
Delhi at the Rabindra Rangshala on Septembet 1st. Three hundred Indian students
from various universities were due to arrive on the same day.
The many receptions in Delhi and the
seminars each morning - although not very well attended - were recorded and
broadcast. The most successful occasion was perhaps the Mayor of Delhi's
reception on the lawns of the Town Hall. On behalf of the city he accepted from
Tim Sage, leader of the London contingent, a framed message from the Lord Mayor
of London and in return presented Comex with a an ivory Asoka Pillar.
 The
Commonwealth Youth Festival was officially opened by President Giri - his first
official engagement on becoming President of India. Our Indian friends
anticipated a turn-out of 2-3,000; they were surprised to find 10,000 inside
the theatre and more outside. The programme was broadcast live by Delhi
television. My brief was to follow the Mayor of Delhi with a vote of thanks.
But the Mayor's car could not jump the mile long queue outside and he was late
in arriving……
'Mr President: A few years ago this
place was a wilderness, a jungle as remote from public interest as Comex
itself. Today that jungle has given way to a magnificent theatre; and a
memorial to a great son of India. It has given us a unique opportunity. Comex
has come to rest in this place after seven years and, including my own
journeys, 100,000 land miles across two
continents……
On this hill, overlooking the great
capital city of Delhi, we may find the starting point of a new adventure into
the second half of the twentieth century - when man is already walking on the
moon. I express a hope that all of us concerned with the Commonwealth Youth
Festival will not look back with regret at an opportunity
lost……'
Throughout the week thousands flocked
to the Rangshala. In addition to this, the Bristol and Cambridge contingents
performed their Shakespeare pageant around the city - as indeed they had done
throughout India……
Bernard Herdan directed: 'The night
after the Commonwealth Youth Festival opened with a flourish, the Shakespeare
pageant had its first performance in Modern College before an audience of about
400 in its tiny theatre. There was no publicity but it was just as great a
success as the opening night of its lighter counterpart……We received
an excited reaction to our performance and when it was over the stage door was
blocked by crowds of students wanting more, and simply to make friends. We
played on four nights, each in a different
college……'
The summit of all the effort was
clouded in criticism about rowdyism, boorishness and some administrative
failures. But I have seen smaller crowds behave worse, and some of the reports
were exaggerated……The true measure of India's contribution lies in
bringing alive a deserted jungle; it lies also in the risk taken by a handful
of people to hold the first Commonwealth Youth Festival as an act of faith and
with but little government support; it lies in arousing a Commonwealth
consciousness for ten days, when men and women talked with forgotten pride and
confidence about the Commonwealth……
The press attack of crass
mismanagement had been crushing. Thinking that it might help, I wrote to the
Hindustan Times, first showing my letter to the Comex India Committee. It was
published the following day……The Gemini News service picked up the
theme…...
'One of the last acts of Colonel
Lionel Gregory was to write an 1800 word letter to the Hindustan Times, a
leading Indian daily. And he sent it across much in the same manner as a
retreating soldier would his last grenade. Published prominently in six half
columns, the letter blasted each bit of criticism made in the Indian press
against the first Commonwealth Youth Festival……In retrospect, even
the most ardent critics concede that the Comex idea remains as magnificent as
when it was first conceived……and as Colonel Gregory observed in his
letter, 'man has the choice in every situation of looking down at the gutter or
up at the stars.'
My old friend Prithi Singh, then head
of protocol, who had been watching events anxiously, telephoned to say how very
pleased the Prime Minister was to see my letter, which may account for a
contingent of sixteen Indian students accompanying Comex 3 back to
Britain. |
Sunday 7th September
A leisurely breakfast at 0800. When the electricity was switched
off, the fans stopped and it was too hot to sleep any longer. All India Radio
were recording a cultural programme in which Ben, Anita and John were taking
part with the Keele Harmony Group, Dave from Cambridge and John Burke from
Sussex. The studios were very well equipped and the programme efficiently
recorded. After the cultural performance in the evening some of the items were
filmed and recorded for the Comex 3 film: Shakespeare, Pete and Pat, some
Indian dances, the Rapper dancers and Anita singing the last verse of Kumbaya
for the ending.
Apart from the rain, it was all over. We now had two days in which
to collect our thoughts, say our goodbyes and prepare for the long journey home
on 10 September. Referring to the Commonwealth Youth Festival, Greg reminded
everyone that the most significant item on the programme was that of 500 young
people (like a regiment without the aid of a Ministry of Defence) travelling
thousands of miles to appear in it. 'Your achievement may not be fully
appreciated, or acknowledged, but it is yours, and no one can take it away from
you.' It was a good thought to take home with us. |
Wednesday 10th September. Delhi - Chandigarh
We had been sitting inside the coach since 0815 to avoid the
monsoon rain. While waiting for our Pakistan road tax forms to be signed at the
embassy in Delhi, we spent the time reviewing what we had been doing, where we
had been, what we had eaten, and what we had been given or bought. We also
decided that having waited so long we would never make the border before it
closed at 1800. Moreover, the roads would be flooded in places and it might be
more sensible to stage in Chandigarh for the night, and cross the border on
Thursday.
Just under an hour after leaving we passed Bristol who had a minor
accident. A child ran out in front of the coach but, happily, was not hurt.
They needed no assistance so we drove on. Bristol followed shortly afterwards.
While passing through Panipat we managed to stop in front of a donkey - just!
India certainly has its hazards. After a crew change at 1200 we pressed on for
the University of Chandigarh - arriving at 1530 - only to find that a message
from Greg warning them of our arrival had not been received. |
Thursday 11th September - Chandigarh - Lahore
Just like old times. We were up at 0400 and on the road by 0500 -
in the dark. The roads were flooded, movement severely hampered, and the coach
was absolutely filthy. Sally - the diarist for the day - was ill so this record
will probably be a short one. We arrived at the Wagha border post at 0930 only
to find that the bank had no hard currency to change our excess rupees. After
some discussion it was decided to drive back about six miles to the nearest
bank. No hard currency there either, and a cable to that effect was sent back
to Delhi! We then returned to the border and crossed into Pakistan - arriving
in Lahore at 1500 - and lost no time in spending our Pakistani rupees. After a
delicious supper, some of us went to bed early while a few braved a farewell
party. |
Friday 12th September - Lahore - Peshawar
 We awoke
at 0730 and had porridge, bread and marmalade before leaving in heavy rain at
0800. After about two hours of smooth running we had to stop with a radiator
leak. The mechanics decided to wait for it to cool down before refilling it. We
then had to wind our way along a dirt track through pools of water to avoid a
bridge in danger of collapsing. Lunch was served on the move: salad, bread and
marmalade, and banana sandwiches.
We stopped in Rawalpindi to spend the last of our rupees and to
post letters, and there were not so many people crowding the coach - which was
a relief. Arriving in Peshawar before dark, we arranged the sleeping bags on
the ground sheet with the boys flanking the girls. Even so, Maggie and Brigitte
had a lot of trouble in the showers with men peering in through the window. A
bucket of water having failed to dislodge the offenders, soap had to be applied
to the windows - much to their annoyance.
Maggie and Brigitte had had already prepared the vegetables for
the stew so we ate quite early, with semolina and stewed pears for sweet. The
mechanics and Steve volunteered to work through the night to enable us to leave
early for Ghazni - with those Afghan coats in mind |
Saturday 13th September - Peshawar - Kabul
Although we were up early, at 0500, the mechanics hadn't finished
so we didn't leave the hostel until 1000. Our plan to drive through Kabul and
on to Ghazni fell through. But we did make the Khyber by 1200 and negotiated
the Pakistan border with little delay. The Afghan side was a different matter:
the customs official boarding the coach was a little suspicious about the two
guitars we had forgotten to declare on the way out. Driving in Afghanistan was
hot and very dry which prompted a swim at the next crew change. Most of us
beetled down to the water and swam in our underwear although one of our members
had trouble at first because she was wearing disposal knickers. So, what else
could she do?
Feeling refreshed we continued, only to have an emergency stop
behind a lorry. A car had swerved into a wall and passengers from a variety of
vehicles were out arguing and shouting at each other. This was no place for
Yorkshire so we decided to press on. At 1800 we arrived in Kabul and went to
the American Centre to fill up with water. About to leave, we discovered that
the battery was flat and had to give the coach a push start. It was getting
dark now, and we could stop only for a few minutes to do some shopping before
driving on to the campsite without lights. We made it just in time and our
cooks soon rustled up a delicious meal. There was a bitterly cold wind blowing
as we snuggled down for the night. |
Sunday 14th September
Everyone was quite excited at the prospect of the Afghan coats. A
breakfast of porridge, scrambled eggs, chapattis and marmalade was quickly
disposed of and the washing up done. Greg gave us a briefing and suggested we
stick to the same route home. We left at 1300 after a new alternator had been
fitted. Celia, John, Shere and Andy, Mike Walker and Ken were dropped off at
the airport to try and recover the refund of Customs Duty. John Smith, and an
American we had picked up at the centre while filling our water containers,
were dropped off at the Khyber Restaurant while the rest of us set off for
Ghazni. We were told that it was about 35 miles but didn't arrive there at
1630. After agreeing to wait about three-quarters of an hour before making any
purchases we wandered about the coat shops, bargaining only, until everyone had
got what they wanted - by which time it was dark. We sent a message back to
Kabul saying we were on our way and made it in good time for risotto and
salad. |
Monday 15th September - Kabul - Kandahar
Up at 0600, we had a hearty breakfast and left at 0900. After an
uneventful drive to Ghazni we stopped for two hours while Celia and Andrew
tried to buy Afghan coats - having been unable to come with us the previous
day. Most of the contingent went round again, but very few bought anything
else. Celia and Andrew got bargain coats so the expedition was worthwhile. We
left at 1400 for Kandahar, which we passed through at 1700, and continued for
nearly an hour before camping in the desert just as it was getting dark. The
tent was pitched behind a disused runway, off the road, with the coach making
an effective windbreak. After an exciting meal of hamburgers a guard rota was
arranged and we went to bed. |
Tuesday 16th September
 Andrew woke us at
0550 with cries of 'Wakey, Wakey, breakfast in ten minutes.' The general
feeling is that he makes the best porridge - it was delicious. Coffee,
chapattis and marmalade followed. We saw our first camel train and took
photographs. Val, Anita and Brigitte had rides after sighting a few camels
further down the road. One poor Afghani had his camels confiscated by another
who brought them over for us to ride. None too pleased, the owner chased after
the camels, made the riders dismount, while muttering threatening words to the
fellow who had 'borrowed' them. Undeterred, the culprit dashed off and returned
with a donkey which Jenny mounted for photographs. Of such is Afghani humour!
We were low on diesel and, according to the RAC route card, the
next fuel station was about 76 miles from our campsite. When we stopped for a
crew change, the crew coming off mentioned that we hadn't yet passed through a
place called Girishi and were now extremely low on fuel. There had been a sign
indicating a petrol station to the right earlier on, but no one had mentioned
it assuming that everything was under control. Consulting the map we
established that the nearest source of supply would be Dellerman, which turned
out to be a very small village with a single row of buildings and a solitary
fuel pump selling petrol! There were about 10 public carriers parked off the
road - all petrol driven - and the next diesel station 120 kilometres
away. |
Wednesday 17th September - Herat - Fariman
After a good night's sleep and breakfast, we set off at 1045 and,
miraculously, made it to Herat where we stopped for three-quarters of an hour
to take on fuel and to invade the fur shops. People came back waving their
bargains - this time it was hats - making the inside of the coach look like a
milliner's waiting room. John Nutland was able to exchange the boots he had
bought the previous day - which he had immediately ripped - for a nicely
embroidered waistcoat. We left Herat, and within twenty minutes took the wrong
road - the one leading to Russia - which was soon corrected and we drove on
till the engine began to make rude noises. As we stopped so did the engine,
billowing smoke from under the bonnet. We waited for half an hour to let it
cool and meanwhile radioed Newcastle, two miles ahead, and they returned to
help us. But there was precious little they could do beyond what our own
mechanics were doing. However, we did ask them to wait for at the border if we
were more than three hours behind. We set off cautiously but soon had to stop
again with smoke pouring out of the engine. This time the radiator was
completely dry.
We lay out in the shade of the coach waiting for the radiator to
cool down, and then refilled it before continuing about two hours later. When
we stopped to check the water level 10 miles later, it was still full. Had
someone emptied our radiator during the night we spent at the airport? Half an
hour later we reached the border and after completing formalities discovered to
our horror that we had run out of fuel again. Happily, a lorry parked in the
forecourt was carrying some spare diesel and was prepared to part with some of
it - at the pump rate - to help us.
An outbreak of cholera had been reported in Afghanistan, and this
meant spending two days in quarantine on entering Iran. Leaving the border at
1930 we arrived at the Cholera checkpoint within half an hour and piled out of
the coach for rectal swabs. We were then led to the quarantine camp in Fariman
by guides, stopping every 15 minutes to top up the radiator. Meanwhile
Birmingham came by dropping off some of their water containers for us, and
these we were able to fill in a small village en route, pulling into the camp
at 0130 Iranian time. The camp was in fact a hospital. It had been evacuated
and prepared for us as a deliberate gesture of hospitality - for official
guests. After an excellent Iranian meal we slept inside the hospital building
on a luxuriously carpeted floor. |
Thursday 18th September
We awoke to the clatter of cutlery and mess tins to find that we
had been sleeping in the hall where breakfast was now being served. And it was
a case of get up or be trodden on. We waited a while for our contingent to be
called, but it was such a nutritious meal and well worth waiting for: a bottle
of milk, bread, cheese, boiled eggs and a cup of chai - with an antibiotic
tablet to finish up with. After breakfast the coach was unpacked, and
thoroughly cleaned by Hilary. The mechanics removed the radiator and sent it
into Mashad for repairs. This was a much more difficult matter because the new
front (collected in Kabul) had no drop leaf.
Some took advantage of the showers while the rest bought
aerogrammes from the small canteen tent set up to supply our more basic needs.
Others sunbathed. Lunch was rice and meat (chello kebab), a bottle of yoghurt
between two and a Pepsi. Our stomachs were not used to so much food and much of
it had to be given away. The afternoon was not ideal for sunbathing - the heat
unbearable - so it was either sleep or talk. |
Friday 19th September - Second day in quarantine camp
There was not much to do. Breakfast was again delicious and we
spent most of the day mending our now famous seat covers. A huge lunch left us
incapable of any useful work, but not so the mechanics. They fitted the
radiator, and generally checked over the coach; it was however decided that
Yorkshire would travel light as far as Shah Pasand: three drivers, three
mechanics, Steve as electrician, Hilary as navigator and Nita as cook. The rest
would be dispersed among the other contingents. |
Saturday 20th September
After breakfast Yorkshire with its skeleton crew said goodbye. We
had on board the 10 gallons of engine oil we had bought, and five Kent had very
kindly lent us. The mechanics had calculated the amount we would need and we
left hoping it would be sufficient. If the engine behaved we would reach Tehran
in time - a distance of over 500 miles.
The first shift was taken by Hilary, Ben and John and although the
oil registered normal, we made regular checks and topped up at every
opportunity. At a fork in the road, offering the choice of a typical old
Iranian road and a newly tarmacked surface running parallel, Hilary decided to
take the latter. Our speed improved and we soon passed another contingent
travelling on the old road. A few kilometres on the roads converged, and after
another oil check and top up, we stopped for provisions. We had a coke and were
back on the road with John driving, Hilary navigating and Andrew watching the
gauge. We had a slight oil leak and were still losing water from the new
radiator. The mechanics were concerned that a cylinder head gasket may have
blown.
A little nourishment on the move helped body and spirits: tomato
onion, chapattis and grapes. For the moment our oil troubles were over, but
there would still be a lot of work to do when we arrived in Tehran .The loss of
power when going uphill was a worry, suggesting that the cylinder heads were
not functioning properly. In addition, we were obliged to suffer unsolicited
comments from the radio operators of other contingents. Ben also found that the
hand brake was faulty but decided that this could wait for Tehran. When we
stopped in front of Cambridge they gave us five pieces of melon - our second
gift of food that day as Cardiff had given us a dixie of porridge before we
left. We decided to drive on past Shah Pasand to give us a good start on better
roads the next day, stopping at 0030. It didn't take the girls long to cook the
meal already prepared on the coach. |
Sunday 21st September - Shah Pasand - Tehran
We were up early, had breakfast, filled the water containers and
left in good spirits. Apart from some fields were cotton picking was in
progress it was an uneventful, smooth ride all the way to Tehran. We were the
third in and soon joined by the rest of the contingent who remarked how good it
was to be back home. We exchanged notes while the mechanics, helped by Bernard
from Manchester inspected the engine to locate those parts that needed
replacing. |
Monday 22nd September - Tehran
 Breakfast at 0900:
delicious scrambled eggs, fried tomatoes, chapattis and tea. Mechanics from
Tehran were due at 0830, but arrived at 0930 and decided that the engine would
have to be stripped down in camp and the relevant parts taken into town for
repair or replacement. The rest of us enjoyed a wonderful day relaxing, writing
letters, playing football, and sunbathing - all supplemented by cold drinks and
cigarettes on offer at the 'Yorkshire Emporium' managed by Mike and Trev. There
was salad for lunch prepared by Maggie.
In the evening, a cultural
performance by coach light was filmed by Iranian Television. It was our best
performance - at least that was the perceived opinion. In high spirits, Jenny,
Ben, John and Nita decided to sing 'Bill and Ben the Flowerpot Men' in five
part harmony. When they had finished voices could b heard singing the song next
door. This was Liverpool. They were not mimicking Yorkshire but had recorded
the singing and were playing it back. |
Tuesday 23rd September - Tehran
Up late for a leisurely breakfast. Around midday, Regina and Nadia
were told that they would need Greek visas for the journey as the chances of
driving back through Bulgaria were now very slight. Regina rushed off to the
embassy as it closed at 1400. A few of us went into town - mainly those with
something specific to buy - while Nita, John and Ben returned to the 'old'
Youth Palace where Yorkshire was much in demand. Later, the wine previously
ordered by the contingent, arrived and that settled the programme for the rest
of the evening. But although a campfire was lit near the baseball court at
1900, the roaring jollity failed to ignite: most people drifted off to bed
after supper to sup their wine reflectively. |
Wednesday 24th September - Tehran - Desert
We were up at 0600, packed and ready to leave at 0800. But the
mechanics had not yet appeared with the spares, which was frustrating for us
and for Leicester too whom we prevailed upon to act as messenger on our behalf.
We eventually left at 1300. John and Nita had gone ahead because John wanted to
get to Tabriz in a hurry. Martin from Exeter took his place. We drove into
Tehran to pick up Nadia and Regina who had gone in earlier to collect their
visas, but had had difficulty finding the embassy. It was nearly an hour before
we picked them up. We then went to the garage for the spares, only to find that
the radiator was leaking again - a long welding job this time. But the
contingent was surprisingly good humoured despite not leaving Tehran before
1630. We drove along the Tabriz road till 2130 stopping for the night at a
suitable campsite in the desert. After a delicious stew most of us had gone to
bed when Trev discovered that we were camping in a field of melons, bringing
with him a specimen to prove it |
Thursday 25th September - Desert - Turkish Border Desert
A rude awakening at 0600 for a 0730 start. It is usually fairly
chilly at this time of year, but after the sun had been up for a couple of
hours it became pleasantly warm. We decided to try and cross the border into
Turkey that day on the premise that we would be able to go beyond Tabriz. Crew
changes came and went, a few uneventful shopping stops, an average number of
loo stops and, all in all, a typical day's journey. We stopped by a stream for
morning ablutions. Some members washed more thoroughly than others much to the
delight of local peasant boys. On the move again, most of us drifted off to
sleep till we arrived at the border at 2200, and found Cardiff camping in the
forecourt of the customs post. They were waiting for Greg to arrive with some
spares. After a few words we carried on, crossing the border with little
formality. (Comex 3 was by now well known along the Asian Highway and, happily,
we were warmly welcomed everywhere.)
We camped about three miles beyond the border and put up the tent
in full view of Mount Ararat. A group of Turkish soldiers marching by stopped
for a chat - language differences didn't matter - they were curious, and
certainly not hostile. The soldiers continued their night march, or whatever it
was that they were doing, and about fifteen minutes later we learnt that we
were being menaced by a pack of goats! Had the soldiers returned? |
Friday 26th September - Turkish Border - Trabzon
 We were up at 0600
for a 0800 start, but were interrupted by a visit from two peasants. They were
welcomed with coffee and were soon followed by three more. These were smallish
boys more easily pleased: empty bottles and tins were scooped up with delight.
Towering ahead of us was the snow - topped Mount Ararat - another cause of
delay while photographs were taken. One never ceased to be amazed at how
smoothly the internal administration and crew changes worked. Around mid
morning we stopped in a little village called Taslicay to refill our water
containers. This was where Maggie had bought a huge wooden spoon - occasionally
awarded to the stirrer of the week - and a few of us rushed off to the shops.
Half a dozen people armed with several huge wooden spoons each may have been
acceptable on grounds of internal security, but had the opposite effect when
dislodged from the luggage racks while on the move. Creeping up through the
mountain passes we decided to get through the first two and then camp in the
river valley beyond.
Unable to find a suitable campsite, we came to a halt at the
summit of the final pass and decided to contact the Commander of the Air Force
base in Trabzon to test whether we would be welcome at 0100. He was very
welcoming and, greatly relieved, we 'stormed' over the pass, now free of
traffic, and arrived half an hour early. Maggie quickly rustled up a risotto
and, despite the lateness of the hour, our old friends were so pleased to see
us that all signs of weariness evaporated. The hospitality was 'trooly
gr'reat. |
Saturday 27th September - Trabzon
We were up at 0400 to make an early start but found that Trev,
Ken, Pete, Steve, Hilary and Regina had stayed up all night. So, we had
breakfast and cleaned the coach inside and out instead. Everyone had a
delicious cooked meal of steaks, omelettes, and pancakes with maple syrup in
the restaurant. We now planned to leave at 1230 but Steve and Lee went first to
phone Samsun to see whether it might be possible to stop there on the way for
water and 'dress-changing'. After taking many photographs, we picked up our
bolder from the outward journey, and said farewell to a remarkable gesture of
transatlantic friendship. Steve, Andy and Pete ran behind the coach down 'rock
alley' to stop children throwing stones and banging on the back of the coach.
Once on the Black Sea coast road we stopped to buy bread and have a snack of
frankfurters. It was dark when we stopped for the night on a small side
road. |
Sunday 28th September
Wedding anniversary for John and Nita Nutland. They had four cards
and a bottle of brandy from the American Air Force Base, and congratulations
all round for their future happiness. It was a cold night followed by a lovely
Autumn morning once the sun had broken through the mist. We were on the road by
0800 and arrived in Ankara at 1600, but decided to push on by ourselves and
make camp later in the evening. Nita slept in the gangway all afternoon and
Maggie made two melon pip necklaces. About 340 kilometres from Istanbul we
found a suitable campsite, set up tent and cooked the evening meal. Sally was
stung by a half dead wasp while preparing the sweet and was treated with
antihistamine by Mick Venables; and Val poured brake fluid into the washing up
instead of detergent - discovered in time by Sally.
We had a drinks party in the tent to celebrate Malcolm's 18th
birthday (20 September); John and Nita's anniversary; Sally and Trev's
engagement; Pete Whaley's 21st; Val's birthday (28 September); and Brigitte's
birthday (23 September). |
Tuesday 30th September Istanbul - Kavalla
We awoke in good spirits, ready for a breakfast of St Andrews
porridge, bread and jam. The boys were playing conkers and generally lazing
around. Two young Turks came by with two dancing bears and a tambourine. The
bears were partly muzzled. The older boy played the tambourine and sang while
the bears danced. We gave a few slices of bread and jam to the bears and they
immediately began licking off the jam. After collecting some money the
travelling circus moved on. We soon followed stopping on the way to spend the
rest of our money, went through the border in no time, and were back in the
land of 'sit down' loos.
In Kavalla we bought some provisions, Steve managed to buy a
hammerhead and shaft, and the rest of us sat in a café by the quay
drinking coke and eating ice cream buns. One of the policemen we met on the way
out came over and chatted to us, telling us about the festival that evening
when the fishing boats would be lit up with fairy lights before being sent out
for the next catch. When the cooks returned laden with cabbages and other
vegetables we made our way to the camp. It was almost deserted as we pitched
the tent and Maggie began preparing a meal. There were warm showers for the
girls but no such luck for the boys. The menu for the evening consisted of
sausages and mash, tomatoes, peas and parsley sauce, followed by grapes and
butterscotch whip. It was a good day, and a good night. |
Wednesday 1st October
We were on the road by 0700 and travelled all day, moving smoothly
through the Greek/Yugoslav border at midday, and putting the clocks back an
hour pushed on into the twilight. At 2000 we came across a farmhouse and
knocked on the door to ask if we could camp in the field. Nadia and Regina
spoke to the family in Greek and they replied in Yugoslav (Croatian). The
farmer wanted us to come inside and to give us beds and sheets (what a
gesture!) but with 25 of us that would have been impossible so we just slept in
the open. The family and their neighbours were very friendly, and chatted and
smoked with us as we prepared an evening meal. They offered us some fruit
identified by Nadia in Czech as 'Gdula'. |
Thursday 2nd October - Nis - Zagreb
The gentle patter of raindrops at 0500. We were sleeping out in
the open - covered by the tent against the likelihood of dew - and it really
was quite pleasant. The rain did not last for long, and we breakfasted as usual
entertained by the farmer's wife feeding the pigs. She gave us milk and cheese
and we repaid her kindness by feeding the pigs with the scraps from breakfast,
as well as presenting her with a selection of American, Indian and Iranian
cigarettes. We left at 0715 after what was a very happy night.
The journey to Belgrade was uneventful. We had to get Austrian and
Belgium visas for Memlou, and as Mick Venebles had been suffering with a bad
toothache since Kavalla, he was anxious to see a dentist. We found a convenient
parking place and the men (we had left the boys behind!) made use of the time
grubbing for conkers in the adjoining parking spaces, startling the children in
the area. A conker tournament followed attracting a large crowd and brought
forth from a local traffic warden the fitting accolade: 'You have many children
here.'
Mission accomplished, we headed for Zagreb, passing the scene of
the Durham accident of Comex 2 without anyone noticing the exact spot, and
arrived at 2000*. We also came across an incident where St Andrews had stopped
for Dr Ennis to give some assistance, underlying the hazards of travelling on
this section of the autobahn (autoput). We pitched tent in the campsite, had a
meal and went early to bed.
*The following, taken from Journey of a
Lifetime, is the text of a welcome speech by the late Postman Nikola Vrbos
whose daughter Nena of Zagreb University was a member of the Cambridge
contingent of Comex 3:
'Zivjeli! We are all very happy to see
you back safe and well. Since you were here last, three months ago, you have
travelled about 40,000 kilometres and met hundreds of thousands of people. They
will all remember you because you had the courage to go; despite the weather,
health hazards, unusual food, and very little personal comfort. You went to all
those countries to make friends. What a wonderful thing you have done. We
followed your journey on this map here, as you will see from Nena's postcards
pinned up all over it. We were often anxious for you, and Milka went to the
church every day to pray for you. So, as the bells in the cathedral were
ringing today you came back to us. I congratulate you, and I thank you for
looking after my daughter. It was my hope that you would receive a civic
reception on your return to Croatia. Unfortunately, that has not happened, but
I assure you that the heart of Croatia beats strong in the breast of this
postman, his family and friends. Please remember this. And one day, when you
occupy important positions in out own country, please remember Croatia too.'
|
Friday 3rd October - Zagreb
The cooks woke us for breakfast at 1000. The mechanics spent the
morning servicing the coach while others cleaned it. Trev, Nita and Sally were
collecting walnuts from a nearby tree until a woman living nearby stopped them.
The coach was then driven into Zagreb by Kevin of Manchester to do our last
shopping. The more energetic went for a 10 mile walk along the banks of the
Sava and returned as the sun was setting. Nadia and Regina cooked a delicious
Russian Borsch with vegetables and cream. Meanwhile the second phase of the
conker tournament was in full swing with broken conkers flying everywhere. It
was cold, and a few disappeared to the biergaten for a drink, but most of us
retired to bed - the only way of keeping warm. |
Saturday 4th October
A very clammy, misty morning. But we were up at 0600 and everyone
was present for breakfast, and ready for a 0730 start. It was lovely to see the
Autumn crocuses growing wild by the roadside, the orchards full of red apples,
and the bright yellow pumpkins everywhere - ready for harvesting. We stopped at
Rottermann in Austria for coffee. Pete Harvey and Andrew wanted to buy some
light walking boots they had noticed on the way out and were disappointed to
find the shop shut. But the owner saw them pointing at the boots and let them
in by a side door - so no disappointment there. At about 1630 we stopped in the
Alps to pick up two hitch hickers (Nigel Fletcher and Heather of Comex hitch
hiking for a change). We took them into the campsite in Salzburg and left them
there while we pushed on into Germany. It was 0030 by the time we found a
suitable site, had a meal and settled down for the night - half in the coach
and half in the open. |
Sunday 5th October - Camp near Munich - Frankfurt
Up at 0600 for breakfast and a few curious looks from passing
policemen, perhaps because we had spent the night in a parking area off the
autobahn. It felt as though we were permanently in the coach most of us not
having left it for 24 hours. However, we opted to follow a different route to
Frankfurt via Stuttgart and along the Rhine valley. In fact, it proved to be
faster with a complete absence of lorries and slow hills. Sunday could have
accounted for the lorries - but not the hills!
It was 1500, and once more we pulled into the American Air Force
Base shortly after Oxford. We made camp near the gym and headed for the wash
rooms and showers. By 1730 we were cleaner and more presentable to eat in the
canteen. Huge meals were consumed and everyone returned to the tents well
satisfied, but only for a brief pause before the majority found the reserves of
energy to go drinking. Some went to the Officers' Club and others to the German
discotheque just off the base in a village called Walldorf. Bottoms
up…Prossit! |
Monday 6th October - American Airforce Base Frankfurt
Up and dressed by 0700 for breakfast in the restaurant - just in
time - and the final mass briefing by Greg in the theatre at 1000. He quickly
summarised arrangements for the rest of the journey and briefly mentioned the
Comex Exhibition in London. He outlined his ideas for the future and made a
plea for us to do more. He then gave a short resume of Comex 3 highlighting
events both amusing and sad. One comment that appealed was likening Comex 3 to
a swam of locusts descending on a coca-cola counter, snarling up the loos and
moving on.* All in all Greg seemed pleased with the progress Comex 3 had made
in improving Anglo-Indian relations 'eroded by time and neglect'. By any
measure Comex 3 was a success, and he congratulated us warmly. After nearly
three-quarters of an hour we gave him a really wonderful display of our
affection for him and poured out of the theatre cheerfully - into the sun.
The coach was cleaned once more; this time more thoroughly as the
seats were taken out, beaten and brushed. Finally, it was smeared with polish
and left to dry, ready for polishing at the end of the journey. John Nutland
joined other members of Comex 3 for a game of football against the Americans.
The score was 4-2 to our hosts - on merit. The last Comex cultural performance
on the road was held in the ice rink with everyone wearing Afghan coats and
hats. Despite chattering teeth and cold feet, the show was a great success and
the audience seemed to enjoy every minute of it. A last drink and then to
bed.
*A full description of this, and other
moments on Comex over 30 years, is to be found in 66 verses of a narrative poem
entitled 'On the Wings of an Eagle' in 'Journey of a Lifetime'.
|
Wednesday 8th October
Breakfast at 0800 and then off to the showers. By the time we left
the camp we all looked surprisingly smart and ready for the crossing. We
arrived at the docks at 1100, after a bread stop and a minor diversion around a
one way system, and waited to board the ferry. But the Enterprize 3 did not
arrive at Zeebrugge until 1130 so it was obvious that the 1230 sailing would be
delayed. We wandered around the docks spending our last francs - buying fish
and chips among other things - and chatting to our friends from the other
continents. Those swapping coaches to travel home with other contingents moved
their luggage and we finally boarded at 1230 - making a beeline for the bar,
bank and duty free shops, because it seemed the obvious thing to do.
During the crossing Greg was presented with an Omega watch and
Annie, who had come across on the ferry with Elisabeth Rowell to meet us, was
given a mysterious parcel containing a leather bag. Some may have hazy
recollections of the crossing; but the bar certainly did a roaring trade
matched only by the queue at the duty free shop. Suddenly, all the penniless
people from Frankfurt seemed to find enough money to stock up with their legal
entitlement to drink and cigarettes - as home coming presents.
As our leader, Steve had been allocated a cabin so that he might
rest during the final sages of this arduous journey. A few of us were invited
to inspect his quarters (anyone around to be precise). Although pleasant it was
a bit noisy so it was upstairs again for all of us and the enjoyment of long
awaited delights. Dover! Although a loud cheer was not raised, one could feel
the atmosphere as England appeared on the skyline: three months since we had
last seen the White Cliffs. Living as a member of a close knit community of 25,
within the wider framework of 500 was an experience not easily set aside.
Comradeship runs deep and in this instance will probably last forever. Time,
and everyday life, would intrude on memories and promises made of reunions. For
many this parting with Comex friends was final. All this was silently
acknowledged, and better left unsaid.
We docked and waited an agonising half-hour to leave the ship
while a broken down lorry was towed off. The tension rises, we are all anxious
to step on English soil, to phone relatives and start for home. At last we
start to move and after queuing to get through customs - grateful for the most
courteous treatment - Yorkshire leaves Dover docks and heads for the nearest
station so that telephone calls can be made. Next stop the fish and chips shop
- supper on the bank. Onward then! The journey is really over.
This is by no means the end of the diary. The end may not
be until 20 years have passed by: for such is the hope that, the Commonwealth
spirit of the brotherhood of man, sparked at so many times during the trip, may
be preserved and used for the good of many in the years to come.
Other pictures of 'people and places on the road' may be seen in
the Gallery of Pictures. |
|
Photographs: Stephen. D. Stewart and Martin.
Bennett.
Additional photographs of Comex 3 taken by Kenneth Fixter can be
found
here.
|
