Yellowknife supports about half the population of the Northwest Territories (20,000 out of 43,000). The new town is functional but hardly inspiring...
...however the old town with its quirky buildings and roller-coaster roads more than makes up.
The old town includes some fascinating houses as well as a few derelict shacks, some apparently lived in.
One of the highlights of a visit to Yellowknife is fish and chips at Bullocks Bistro. The town's official guide warns of "frontier service". Lonely Planet calls the service "abrupt, verging on rude". We thought the food was very good, the prices high and the service excellent (in their defence our waitress was new and from out of town and had perhaps not yet been full trained).
My personal recommendation for a very good meal in Yellowknife, with reliable polite services and a more varied menu would be the Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre. Honestly!
The building also houses an excellent museum and a splendid portrait of Charles and a horse! Definitely worth a visit.
For reasons that escape me, lots of things in Yellowknife (like bollards and bicycles) are decorated with knitted covers.
I know it's cold in winter but...