The Silk Route Motorcaravan Club.

Bulletin 113.

March 2004.
Editor (Original edition in French) Jacques Mahaut.
Translated by Rowena Brunning and Les Brook.
Translation Edited by Les Brook.

In this bulletin
  • INSURANCE.
    • Global, India, North America, China.
  • LONG TRIPS.
    • Dealing with correspondence.
  • SCANDINAVIA
    • Co-travellers wanted.

Editorial: Open Season On Oldies!

I swear to you that I really did hear an announcer (TV news, 1 o'clock) saying that, in a new series of measures affecting driving licences, "there will be a ban on over-70s driving more than 50km from their home"!

Even if she is not responsible for what she said, there was certainly someone who whispered this ludicrous suggestion into her ear. A medical examination, OK, that's normal, but this. It's worse than the news about the retirement of Juppé [former French PM found guilty of corruption]. If the over-70s can't drive on the road, why should they still have a licence? The politics of our country! The mere thought of someone hatching such a plan fills me with disgust. Since then I've heard no more about it. Perhaps it was a hoax?

When it's a matter of appeals to the nation, or something to do with tax, we are right there, they know how to find us. That our resources melt away like snow in the sunshine bothers no-one. A strike of pensioners would not annoy anybody! If only the manager of my block of flats would take up my suggestion - to base his annual increase on our pensions, after compulsory deductions.

Well, now I feel better! So let's speak about the Association. You'll have noticed that we have enrolled a dozen or so new members. But in the debit column, we must not forget the departures, in more or less the same numbers. I think that this balance satisfies everyone those who wish to keep the 'family spirit' and those who are aware that, to avoid disappearing altogether, we must change.

The new system of organisation is now quietly in place. The membership cards should soon be out, the new logo will see the light of day and will start appearing on stickers, shirts etc. In short, it's all going really well.

To complete our good luck, all we need is a retired information technology specialist, even a beginner, to take our web-site in hand and liven it up with a more dynamic style. Mar Petremann does what he can, but it's not easy when you already have a full-time job.

I have even found a volunteer for the Autumn balade. Jean Sommer (actually, is it OK with Michele?) is keen to take us 'On the Path of St. James to Rouergue'. I hope there will be lots of offers to help with the donkey work of organisation.

Postcards From.

Michèle Steger, Tawau Sabah, Malaysia, 28/12/03. Best wishes to the President and to all members of 'China 2000'.

Jean-Claude and Sylvette Chesneau, Petra, Jordan, January 2, 2004. We are eating macadam on the roads of Syria and Jordan. The game is worth a candle. Moreover, the weather is nice.

Michele Steger (the same one), Kinabalu Mount, Malaysia, January 9. From Borneo where I arrived for midnight mass, I wish a happy new year to you all.

Roger and Maggy Demontes, Luxor, January 14. Well-organized cruise, the journey is very pleasant, and the sites splendid. Our heads are full of it.

Shu Min, Beijing, January 21. Happy new year and good health to you and the members of your Association.

Christian and Bernadette Lathulière, Teoti-huacan, Mexico, January 21. It's crazy how big Mexico is! Hours and hours of road to see the prehistoric sites, but it is worth the pain.

Jean-Pierre and Josette Courtin, Florence, January 26. Even in winter, Tuscany is beautiful. Snow and sun. A thousand thoughts for those on the road and those who are not. Not many compatriots to share the sublime taste of Tuscan food.

Antoine and Michele Thimjo, Tafraout, Morocco, January 23. A short stop in this city to buy some postcards for friends. Morocco is always seductive, and every year there are more motorcaravans!! See you soon, under a different sky.

Andree Arend and Roger Villiez. Agadir, Morocco, February 5. Greetings to all those lands where we find sunshine! It's good there, hiding behind a dune.

Andre and Francine Helmbacher, Tiznit, Morocco, February 3. It's always great to find blue sky, sun and heat under the palm trees of this beautiful country.

Jose and Claude Gasull, Dar el Fergiani, Libya, 4 February. After 5 weeks in Tunisia, we headed for Libya. Lovely weather, but the sea's a bit too cold for swimming.

Michel Barbaudy, Slope Point, New Zealand, 11 February. South Island together with Robert Vangevelinghe. Some trouble with the [hire] van, exchanged in Christchurch. Weather very changeable; wind very cold by the sea.

Buying An RV In The USA.

If anyone is thinking of buying an RV in the USA we have the following advice:

1. Join the RV Consumer Group (http://www.rv.org/). They provide a rating service which stopped us buying an RV that was either unsafe or unsuitable for full-timing, and also told us what to look for when buying a used RV.

2. Pre-arrange insurance before leaving home. We found we could not easily get insurance as we did not have a US driving licence or a US address. Even the AAA turned us down flat. In the end we used a company called Thum which accepted an International Driving Licence. They were expensive but efficient.

3. You will need an address in the state you wish to register your vehicle. I think you have to register it in the state in which you buy it. The costs vary hugely: California is expensive for example, whilst Florida is cheap. We were lucky in that the dealer we bought our RV from allowed us to use his address.

Our RV, "Camilla", is a Safari Trek. It is small by American standards. People refer to her as "neat". She is 28' long (including spare wheel) and 7'6" wide, 11'3'' high (including stuff on the roof) and has a GVWR of 13250 lbs, which gives us a payload of over 2200 lbs. These are important if you want to bring an RV back to the UK, as Camilla is narrow enough to be legal (102" is the max), and light enough to be driven without a heavy goods vehicle licence.

She averages 16.6 m.p.g. (Imperial gallons). We decided on diesel because of the huge cost of petrol in Europe. A petrol Trek of the same size (belonging to a friend of ours) does 9 m.p.g. (Imperial) cruising at 65 m.p.h.. The large 8 litre V10s admit to getting as little as 6mpg when towing a car.

Most Treks have an electromagic bed in the living room roof and a huge rear bathroom. We didn't want this and were lucky to find one of the rare rear-bedroom Treks. The shower is a self-standing cubicle with solid doors. It has a flushing toilet and basin in the separate bathroom. The galley has an oven which is a combination of a grill, convection oven and microwave, 4 gas hobs, and extractor fan, double sink an 8cuft AC/propane fridge/freezer. The sitting area has a couch which pulls out to a 48" wide, 76" long double bed, and an extendable dining table seating 4. The driving seats rotate 180 degrees so can be used as part of the comfortable seating. The insides are furnished with solid hardwood cabinetry, and no tacky bits and bobs (which even VERY expensive motorhomes seem unable to avoid). We think Camilla is more like a yacht than a motorhome.

Heating is provided by a ducted forced air propane furnace and the hot water is supplied by a 6 gallon (US gallons = 78.5% of an Imperial gallon) propane water heater. We have roof air-conditioning (13500 btu) and a 13" colour TV with a roof-mounted wind-up aerial, which can also be used as the display for our back-up camera. We also have a 4kW generator.

The fresh water tank is under the bed and contains 50 US gallons. The black and grey water holding tanks hold 30 gallons each. We have a 35 gallon LPG tank and two diesel tanks. The main tank is 33 gallons and the auxiliary holds 20 gallons, giving us a 675+ mile range.

The chassis is based on the Isuzu NPR chassis, a 3.9 litre 4 cylinder engine, producing 135 bhp and 260 lbs of torque. She cruises effortlessly at 65mph on the flat but climbs hills slowly (but will climb ANYTHING). She has electronically controlled 4 speed automatic transmission with overdrive. We have an exhaust brake which means we can go down even steep hills without using the brakes at all, a very comforting feeling. (We still have the original disk pads and brake linings after 85000 miles).

It's is what is known as a basement model with huge storage lockers underneath. We also have 3 hydraulic levelling jacks (one front, 2 rear) and awnings: one patio awning and on the other side 2 window awnings. The dashboard heating and air-con is pathetic so if its very hot we run the generator as we are going along with the coach A/C. If very cold we run the furnace.

Readers of our reports* will know what we have replaced or added to the "Coach": touch wood, we have had no trouble at all with the engine and chassis apart from one tyre blow-out. Even after being left for 3 weeks in temperatures down to 7 degrees F (approx. -14 degrees C) she started instantly.

The price of Camilla: we paid $30,000 including tax and registration.

Peter and Susan Markham

*Available from Les Brook lesbrook@blueyonder.co.uk.

France to South America by Cargo Boat May-June 2003.

You've all dreamed about it, but Jacques Berlivet did it!

The day before departure, the forwarding agent tells us by telephone that we should arrive around 14.00 at the southern port of Le Havre to embark on the Grande Brasile.

Friday May 16 2003. We present ourselves at 11.15 and must embark at once. It's a good job we came straight here! We had decided not to go into town this morning to do some last-minute jobs. I drive the Land-Rover on to the 6th floor deck of the boat, just like an underground car park. Sailors strap it firmly as they do all the other vehicles which the boat carries: cars, trucks, tractors and even some for construction work. The immense garages enable the boat to transport 3,500 vehicles and 1,350 containers.

We have free access to our van and only take a few things in the lift which takes us to the 12th floor, where the crew and passengers live. We are taken to our cabin past the officers' dining room.

At 12.30 the ship releases its mooring ropes, raises its 'drawbridge', and is pulled and pushed by two tugs to an immense lock. Then we follow the buoys which mark out the channel leading to the open sea. The weather is overcast and the rain starts to fall. Many boats in the English Channel. It's funny to look through a port-hole at the horizon which appears, goes up, then goes down again and disappears. We pass by Cotentin and Brittany without seeing them because of the fog and the darkness. The ship rolls a little. Such a large structure makes it sensitive to the strong gusts which come from the west.

Saturday May 17. Sometimes our sleep is disturbed because we are being rocked and the background noise of the engines reminds us of travelling on a sleeper. Day at sea. Since Le Havre, gloomy and rainy weather, calm sea, no sea sickness. We cannot see the French coast. We read or write.

The Grande Brasile is enormous: 214m long, 32m wide. Our cabin is 40m above the water. The enormous chimney is 53m high. There are 27 crew members, almost all Italians like the boat. It can carry 12 passengers maximum (it's the legal maximum without a doctor on board). But we are the only passengers, a bit of a pity. We progress steadily at 18.5 knots.

The weather is grey. You can walk on deck. We have an inside cabin, the cheapest, without a window. It has air-conditioning and powerful ventilation which gives us the impression of being in a TGV. Two wide bunk beds, a cupboard, drawers and a private bathroom with wash-hand basin, shower and WC, even a powerful hair drier. Very functional! The steward serves us at table in the officers' dining room. At our disposal is an air-conditioned room, a TV which works only with the video player, and a stock of American film cassettes, violent ones dubbed in Italian, plus a small sound system with cassette player. Washing machines are provided free. The steward does the cabin each morning.

In short, it's a hotel with full board. The meals are good and very large, but are served very early, like in hospital!

Internet. It is possible to use the computer on board to send and receive messages. But the keyboards will be different from now on - QWERTY not AZERTY as at home. We will have to get used to this because all the keyboards will be like this till we get back.

Sunday May 18. 02.00 in the morning. The boat has stopped moving, the engines are stopped. 04.00 in the morning. We wake up again and I get up. It's dark. The temperature is pleasant. We are in Bilbao (Spain). 08.00. Around us the quays, immense cranes, lines of containers and enormous coal heaps. Behind the port, buildings, fairly low mountains. It's Sunday, we decide not to visit the city, which is a long way and spend the day looking at the discharging and reloading of containers on our boat from our armchairs on the deck, on the 13th floor. Seen from here people and the cars below seem very small. Weather superb. Lots of sunshine.

16.00 sees us release the mooring ropes, on the way to Dakar where we should arrive in 6 days. We are on the open sea, going along the Spanish coast of Biscay and Asturias with its snow-topped mountains.

Monday 19th. In the night we rounded Cape Finistere and since then the weather's been nice and we can't see land. We pass other ships. We are perhaps alongside Portugal this afternoon. We go south at 18 knots. The next stopover will be in Africa, in Dakar.

Question: how long will it be before we get to our final destination? Proposed stopovers in Africa: Dakar, Banjul, Conakry, Freetown. In Brazil: El Salvador de Bahia, Vitoria, Rio de Janeiro, Santos, then arrive in Buenos Aires on June 10.

Tuesday 21st. Voyage pleasant and restful: we needed some. We see the Canaries in the fog. For the second time we advance our watches an hour.

Wednesday 23. Grey weather. From our perch we can see lots of flying fish surfing the waves. At 14.00 we round the island of Gorée where the slaves departing for the New World were locked up. Two hours later we are in Dakar, Senegal. The heat is heavy. We leave the boat to telephone the children. The port is in the city. A short walk in the busy streets and markets. The ship quickly unloads 700 vehicles which would be scrapped at home but which will be repaired over here. From our 13th floor lookout, we observe thieves forcing the car boots which have been unloaded.

Thursday 24. We sail along the coast and pass some small fishing boats. At 09.30 we manoeuvre to enter Banjul (Gambia). The boat is longer than the quay! We discharge 400 old cars. The port and the city appear miserable. We don't land because we do not have a visa and the country is not safe. Hordes of dogs wander the beach. Not reassuring.

Friday 25. We leave Banjul at 09.00. We often see flying fish and on several occasions lots of superb dolphins, four enormous rays, dugouts, large and small boats. It is super. We are in great form, brick-coloured and well-cooked on those parts of our bodies we've exposed, and pink elsewhere, like the Africans.

Saturday 26. We sail round islands with large, wooded hills. At 09.00 we moor at Conakry (Guinea Bissau), a low [?] city with some [notable?] buildings (Méridien hotel). The weather is very hot. We are not authorized to land. A few hundred vehicles are unloaded in very untidy fashion. Half of them cannot be started. They are pushed off the boat by any means: using machines or the cars which can still run, or lifting trucks. Hello breaker's yard!. As soon as they are landed, the drivers finish plundering them by forcing the trunks or the doors, even if they have been welded by their shippers. By the evening there remain only nine vans of which only one can start. They are all attached together like a small train and leave towards the city. The straps which connect them keep breaking.

Sunday 27. We arrive to Freetown (Sierra Leone),. The city has suffered from a civil war. In front of us there's a convent which was torched in 2000. The sisters were massacred. We cannot land. A few hundred cars and truck are unloaded in well-organised fashion. Helicopters fly between the city and the airport which is on an island.

Monday 28. We leave Freetown at night. Torrential tropical rain and lightning. In the morning, a flood. The 12th floor deck is covered in water and the dustbin bags are afloat. They will be thrown into the sea. We only see some large boats, a long way off.

Tuesday 29. 18.30. Amidst general indifference, we to the bridge to see if we have just crossed the Equator. A dot of light indicates our position on the chart and we visit several times to check where we are. Better to know because how otherwise will we know which way to swim in the event of a problem? We throw a bouquet of dried flowers given by Anne and Didier into the sea. We hope Neptune appreciates it

Wednesday 30. Strong wind. Difficult to walk straight when on deck. Quite calm sea. Many flying fish (Exocet).

Thursday 31. At our request, we have a tour (at speed) of the ship, guided by a junior rating. Unfortunately we don't see the engine room, only the decks. The eleven decks cover an area greater than 3 hectares. You need that for 3,500 vehicles, without counting the 1,350 containers! At the entrance to deck 3 which is 6.25m high, there's a large 49 feet sailing ship. Impressive. The height of some decks is adjustable, 1.73 to 2.70m. These are used for vehicles and some containers. The 'Manitou' which moves and piles up the containers can lift 40 tons and its tyres are as tall as a man. There are containers inside and many others outside, at the back, on levels 6 to 9. The boat is 3 years old and the Grimaldi Company has at least 10 like them traversing the globe. In these immense car parks there are only a few new vehicles intended for Brazil and the Argentine, some beautiful Argentinian fire engines, collector's items that have been exhibited in Europe - and our little lost Land-Rover, all alone on his deck. The heat and noise of the engines makes us appreciate our air-conditioned cabin. Fresh water comes from the desalination plant: that's why the water from the tap is tepid in the Tropics.

The Italian crew don't communicate with us. It's their last voyage on this ship and they are probably bitter. Some will be made redundant. Grimaldi has created a subsidiary company which will own the Grande Brasile. This company will replace the Italians with Scandinavian officers and Filipino sailors.

Sunday June 1. Four days to cross the Atlantic. Arrive this morning at Salvador de Bahia (Brazil) which is like Manhattan when it's raining. We didn't expect to see so many skyscrapers. In the afternoon, very sunny and hot. We went for a walk in the old town near the port, but everything is closed. It's Sunday. Unload the new Discoverys, Range-Rovers, 4x4 Volvos. Thunderstorm, and then departure in the night.

Monday June 2. Today, Monday, it rains in the morning and then the weather is pleasant, strong wind, sea rough but our boat does not move. Day and next night at sea. For more than an hour observed three seagulls flying around us and plunging to catch flying fish. Superb! The fish fly and the birds plunge: the world turned upside down!! It's normal: we've exchanged hemispheres! Finally a very beautiful sunset, but at 17.15. It's the end of Autumn. We have moved back our clocks five hours compared to France.

No whales nor sailing ships at sea. No more dolphins, only flying fish.

Tuesday June 3. During the night, we turned before entering the container port of Vitoria. A score of boats are at anchor in the bay. Strange landscape, enormous, steeply sloping smooth rocks which mean we have to slalom in the arms of the sea. City with ultra-modern localities, Manhattan seafront. We pass under a bridge with a roadway 80m above. Two tugs help us and make a half-turn in the narrow channel in the middle of town. Impressive manoeuvre. A taxi takes us into an immense and luxurious air-conditioned shopping centre. We spend five hours on land. It was good to get away from the noise of the engines.

The Brazilians are friendly and merry. Temperature 30 degrees but humid.

Wednesday June 4. Left Vitoria 2 o'clock in the morning. Beautiful weather, many large and small boats but no sailing ships. We sail in sight of the mountainous Brazilian coast and its islands. Spend the day sheltering from the wind on deck 13, behind the footbridge, reading guide books and observing the sea. This evening, it grows dark at 17. 15 as we arrive in the bay of Rio. We see the mountains and the Sugarloaf, the lights of the sea front and those which climb along the mountains. Other boats are at anchor, sometimes illuminated. Great!

Thursday June 5. This night a strong swell shakes us up, causing violent jolts, probably as a result of tightening the anchors' chains. We're facing Rio de Janeiro and the rear of the boat is regularly struck by the sea. It rains. We have not slept. Got up at 06.00 to see if it was light and what the weather was like but went back to bed because it was raining and foggy, and still dark.

Breakfast at 08.00. The rain stopped. We can see the Sugarloaf (394 m), the top of Corcovado (710 m) and the statue of Christ, 30m high, with open arms, and weighing 1000 tons. Sometimes he comes out of the clouds. In front of us at anchor are several container ships waiting to go into port and, surprisingly, another Grimaldi Lines boat, Republica di Amalfi, our twin, who is also waiting to unload when the biggest quay in the port becomes available. Then it will go to Dakar and Le Havre. From where we are, there's no chance of us going ashore. We spend the day under the waves' water hammer. But we hope to be able to go to Rio tomorrow. We would like to be able to go up the Sugarloaf by cable-car or up Corcovado by funicular.

Friday 6. Beautifully sunny. By boat we see Copacabana beach and Corcovado. The Republica di Amalfi cruises past us as if we aren't here. We will be able to take his place. We dock in the morning. In the afternoon we visit the city by minibus. The landing stage at Maracana is the largest in the world. Go up Corcovado where Christ extends his arms. Superb panorama and clear weather over the bay of Rio and the Sugarloaf which appears quite small from here. Walk on Copacabana beach. Large waves and few bathers. It's winter. Foot volleyball is being played.

From the ship we observe men in white overalls busying themselves near a container. They are assembling a helicopter. In the evening, after testing, it takes off. New Volkswagen Golfs and Passats are carefully loaded. Manufactured cheaply in Brazil, they are going to Europe. There are lots of enormous metal pipes, 50 to 100m long. Manufactured in India, they are destined for a Brazilian refinery nearby. Two large trucks are harnessed opposite and seem ready to leave, but for where? Who knows?!

Saturday June 7. To Santos, the port of Sao Paulo. You would think it was All Saints' Day: cold, rain and fog. We are at the bottom of the channel, a long way out. We go into town. It rains. Return to the fold. We load with new cars for Europe. Still two days by sea before we arrive in Buenos Aires.

Tuesday 10. In the morning we go up the broad mouth of the Rio de la Plata. Fatal floods have taken place in the area of Santa Fe and the river carries quantities of branches and even trees. The water is the colour of the earth. The ships are numerous. Many are ferries which go from one bank to the other, connecting Argentina to Uruguay whose capitals, Buenos Aires and Montevideo, are separated only by this stretch of sea.

Arrive in Buenos Aires. The ship touches the quay at 14.00 and at once customs come on board. We wait in the captain's room for the two stamps on our passports. After inspecting the Grey Card from Berliland [insurance certificate?], the customs' officers give us permission to travel in Argentina for a year "Nothing to pay. Enjoy your stay!". We take the lift to go down from the 12th to the 6th floor. The straps on the Land-Rover were removed. We get in and take the slope (as in an underground car park) which leads to the exit on the 3rd floor, from where we go down to the quay via the boat's 'drawbridge'. A few hundred metres further is the port exit. The customs' officers cast an eye over our passports and question us on our route. They are envious and wish us 'Bon Voyage'.

Jacques Berlivet

Marvellous Tibet: Silk Route To China 2000 Revisited.

Three years after. I have just been leafing through the photo albums, reading my notes, and nostalgia for the 2000 China trip makes me want to tell you about our journey into the heart of Tibet.

25 September. Yunan province: we've just visited an authentic Naxi village and travelled by cable-car to the yaks' pasture, guided by Carolyn Gao (half Bai, half Han). We stop at a village near Tiger's Leap. Tian [the guide] offers us a good meal in a little inn beside the tumbling waters. We cross a mountainous region with many poisonous red flowers and buy a haunch of dried yak meat.

26 September. In the cool morning sun, we visit the Tibetan Buddhist monastery of Sougzhanlinski where a small number of monks live. Tian is anxious about the imminent crossing of Tibet and offers us white scarves to protect us from the mountain demons.

Surprise, surprise! At midday, we arrive at a village where we are welcomed by a procession of laughing children in national dress. No: not in our honour! They are waiting for the inspector.

The road becomes dangerous: landslides, road works, ravines, tight bends. We spend the night at Deqen and I suffer from altitude sickness.

27 September. The N214 is no longer tarred. Oh the pleasure of driving on unmade roads! A 100kms further, here's Yanjing. Here's the start of Tibet! The sacred mountain, covered in snow and shining in the sun, rises out of the clouds. We begin a long descent close to the Mekong river whose turbulent waters are the colour of milk chocolate. The colours are unbelievably beautiful and the shapes always different (mountains that are rocky or covered with bare earth or pebbles) with two very narrow sections. On one side, a precipice, on the other, enormous layers of sharp rock which threaten to tear the sides of the vans.

Then the scenery becomes gentler. The poplars are golden in Autumn, the cistus [rockrose, cliff rose??] and the firs smell beautifully, and the gentians are in full flower. We reach a col at 4,200m. A monk, seated in front of brightly-coloured prayer flags which float in the breeze, fervently turns his prayer wheel.

28,29,30 September. The road is very hard!. We go through villages built of red earth and on our way buy vegetables and yak meat. The Tibetan peasants in local costume bring in the harvest on horseback, on yak back, or on the backs of women! Roadmen repair the road. The fords are hard to cross: you have to use a crowbar! The treacherous track does not stop us admiring the wild splendor of the mountains and the infinite variety of their colours. For a few hundred metres we drive behind yaks that can't find anywhere to stop. Tiny children are dangerously perched on overhanging rocks. Their parents don't intervene. Smiling Tibetans come to meet us and sometimes help, sticking out their tongues. Shocking? Not at all! This gesture means "I am not a Tibetan thief!".

29th. We reach Qamdo. And here begins the unforgettable N317!

On the evening of the 30th, we wait for the group in a meadow of edelweiss.

1-3 October. The road to Lhasa is getting harder and harder. First of all, there are 66kms of tunnels(?)! The fords get more and more difficult. At a bend, one of the Chinese TV cameramen offers us pyracantha. "Do you like?". It's the only scrap of English he knows.

We no longer count the areas of slippery mud or the deep ruts. When twilight comes, we stop wherever we can, in small groups so as not to get in the way of the lorries that could still be moving overnight.

2 October. Woken by the song of a waterfall. We only manage 21kms! We get stuck in a landslip. The vans back wheels are 50cms from a precipice and we are scared of another slip. I've never been so afraid in my life! I am leaning against the wall of rock, eyes closed, and the women working on the road sit down close to me to cheer me up. After two hours tunnelling, a hand rests gently on my shoulder and the van moves slowly forward, pulled out from this dangerous place by a winch and also thanks to the competence of three strong men in our little group (Jacques, Michel and Robert), not forgetting the strong arms of the cameraman.

After having tasted an excellent yak steak, we start our crossing of the wide river. Several vans are winched over by the guides. (We have eight of them, one of whom is a doctor. Their young leader, Loic, displays unusual energy.) At nightfall, we cross two wide fords. Maurice gets stuck and he's pulled out with a winch.

At 21.00, having swallowed one of our comforting Maggi soups and admired the starry sky, we spend a quiet night, perfectly dry in the river bed.

3 October. At dawn, three lorries get stuck in the water. The temperature is low. Another ford, then an impressive little climb in the mud and we reach a village where we buy vegetables, delicious rolls stuffed with spiced meat, and fill our tanks at the spring. We are more than 4,000m high. The red sugar, the purple tea, and Tian's capsules help us to cope with the now oxygen-starved atmosphere. We cross numerous little fords and two or three bridges. The villages are edged with little stone walls, the houses modest.

Jacques photographs a little stone house. In the yard, a big brother carries his little sister in his arms. A dog sleeps in the sun. Peace. Serenity. A heavily-laden yak train wends its weary way forwards.

And once again, we're in the mud. Two Tibetans come to help us. An old woman (how old might she be?) throws a little stone to fill up a deep rut.

During difficult crossings, we've lost our step, the rear lights, and the protective cover for the engine. The lower bodywork is not too badly damaged but the shock absorbers have given up the ghost and the tyres are really bald. At 16.00 a stop to photograph stones engraved with religious symbols. A bike covered in flowers awaits us at the end of the track. How about a ride? We spend the night in a field.

4 October. 0° when we wake. We invite the cameramen to a warm breakfast in our van. They sleep rough in their 4x4. It has rained during the night. The reflections are wonderful, but we need to get out of here! The track is dangerous, narrow - and impressive! We cross a wide area of landslides then get stuck in black mud. A flurry of snow in the sunshine, and at the top of a pass two lorries full of pilgrims appear, returning from Lhasa. The road is very narrow. We squeeze tightly against the sharply-pointed rock face. The lorries proceed very slowly only 2-3cms away from our van close to the precipice. No-one utters a word. We are close to breaking point. So are the drivers and their pilgrims.

Phew! They've got past. We continue along this insane road. A blazing sun dazzles the drivers.

In the evening we stop in front of a difficult ford, nice and warm in our fragile mobile homes. For how long!?

5 October. -5° this morning! A few kms of track and then we wait for the rest of the group in a small village. René's clutch isn't working. The torsion bar of Francis Fabulet's van is broken. Tian offers us a meal of Chinese ravioli. To reach the restaurant, we have to drive over large-gauge shingle. Schoolchildren and villagers gather around the vans smiling and trying to talk to us. Both men and women have long thick hair, plaited with red ribbons and decorated with jewels. The children are dressed in very European sportswear. About 18.00, we set off again in hot sunshine on a black, dusty, muddy road full of ruts and camp near a little hotel at Sog Xian.

6 October. Set off at 07.00. We continue along the N317, the road with every hazard - landslides, very steep cliffs and descents, an indescribable surface, sharp bends where little waterfalls flow. At every bend the road is even narrower. On one side there's a precipice, and you can find yourself nose-to-nose with a huge lorry. Fords, mud, dust, riverbeds.

At 11.00, we are stuck at a lively waterfall amongst sharp, slippery stones. We have to build up the ford. Strong men work at it for several hours. We are at an altitude of between 4,000 and 4,500m. We're finally on the un-beautiful high desert plateau, on the same level as the snow.

7 October. -2°. Go over a col. Our van, minus shock absorbers, leaps along the wide track. 85kms further, we reach Nagqu where we obtain fuel, but we are not allowed to stay.

And there ends the N317, the one we'll never forget. We have covered 763kms since Qamdo.

We continue, facing the sun on the N109. A vast herd of yaks is on its way down from the mountain and we spend the night in a huge meadow.

8 October. -3°. N109! We are driving high up on the Tibetan plateau. By midday we ought to be at Lhasa. But at 10.00 the road is closed. A bridge has collapsed. One of the road workers wants to send us on a secondary track. A convoy of military lorries is passing by. After a long discussion, a bulldozer flattens the muddy ruts and we also get through. The workers stay in brightly-coloured plastic tents at the side of the roadway under construction. We are travelling through a more populated valley and it's threshing time.

At 16.30, the road's blocked once more as a result of a blast. The mechanical diggers clear it up and this time we go in front of the lorries thanks to Loic's determination.

19.00. A tarred road at last! And a wide avenue of poplars with golden leaves shining in the sunset. At 21.00, we finally arrive in Lhasa.

9 October. In the morning, the usual tasks: water, gas, washing. Then repairs. At midday we enjoy a dish of yak with tomatoes in a nice little restaurant. In the afternoon, more repairs. In the evening, the Tibetan agency gives us an excellent meal. yak with all sorts of sauces, with funny folk dances where the yak, once again, holds an all-important place. So we laugh and we dance, forgetting our tiredness and the tension of the last few days. Tonight we will dream of yaks!

10 October. Lovely weather. We climb the 1,000 steps of the Potala Palace and admire the many richly decorated rooms. The early afternoon is spoiled by a long discussion on the extra charge to be paid because the crossing of Tibet took longer than anticipated. Of course we will pay $352. What does it matter in the general scheme of things?

Free at last, we visit the old town and buy prayer wheels, necklaces, engraved boxes made of yak horn, little bottles of perfume. In the evening, the group invites Tian, the cameramen and the guides and we all enjoy a very good meal in a Tibetan restaurant.

11 October. We leave Lhasa by a beautiful tarmac road, the N318, edged with golden poplars and silver birch. But once again, it turns into a rough track! We discover more aspects of the mountains: crumbly, leafy, sandy. There's a strange mountain of sand and gravel, like a beach raised to the vertical.

This region is less fertile. We see no yaks now; instead, donkeys. At Xigase, we camp in a hotel yard facing golden poplars. In town, we eat roast chicken in a little tent. Beggars ask for money. We give kebabs to a young mother.

12 October. In the morning, a visit to the Tashillumpo monastery. The openings are edged in black to ward off evil spirits. The N318 goes through a poor and dusty valley, enclosed by mountains of earth. At 15.45 we go over a col at 4,400m. Brrrr! In the evening we camp at Lhaze on an unattractive sports ground. Jacques cooks kebabs outside. Not a good idea. It is scarcely 0° and the fire won't take properly because of the lack of oxygen.

13 October. We travel on a monotonous and desolate plateau. Col at 5,220m with prayer flags that are frozen stiff. Then the N318 starts to copy the N317 - sharp pebbles, bad frozen fords, uneven road surfaces, slippery ruts. The villages are surrounded by walls made of gravel, crowned with blond dung drying in the sun. At midday we lunch on a meagre bowl of soup in a restaurant brightly decorated in red and black. A few kms of tarmac and at 14.30 we arrive at Tingri, the village closest to heaven! They sacrifice many sheep. I buy a pot of honey in a small grocer's and we stroll about. In the evening a hot shower: water from a well is heated over a wood fire.

14 October. -2.5°. We have a gas leak in the van and don't light the heating. At 08.00, on top of a hill, we wait for the sun to rise over Everest. Fairytale sight! The soft light of dawn awakens the peaks of the Himalayas one after another, then the whole mountain range lights up. And we set off once more. So long as I don't die! So long as I don't die! One should not arouse the attention of the evil spirits who are always on the lookout!

Now we have to change the wheel. at an altitude of 5,000m. at 66 years of age. all alone!

The scenery gets wilder and wilder and lovelier and lovelier. At 13.20, arrive at Nyalam. The roads are in a poor state. During the meal, we watch the dangerous dance of lorries in the mud. Then we join in! We return once more to the mountain track with all its dangers. Fascinating beauty of the peaks, the waterfalls, the coloured rocks, the springs which one can see at a dizzy depth below. A bit lower down, we pass underneath a huge waterfall.

17.00, this is Zhangmu, the border town. There we have our last Chinese meal. There we spend our last night in China, very close to each other in a small yard.

5 October. 11.00. We go through Chinese customs, say our goodbyes, take our last photos. In the smile of Tian, I detect huge relief and a bit of nostalgia. It's only au revoir and not good-bye, Tian.

Here's the motorway of friendship [the bridge between China and Nepal is called Friendship Bridge. Ed.], an amazing stream-bed where we blow two front tyres and break a rim. Held up for a long time near a waterfall, we enter Nepal at 20.30!

To remind you, there were 17 outfits:

Aldera Nelly with Michèle Steger, Dumas Jacques and Christiane, Fabulet Francis and Eliane, Jacquart Robert and Claude, Khon Ferdinand and Françoise, Lebourgeois Guy and Mauricette, Ledoux Jean and Fanny de Stéfanis, Lenouard Serge and Denise, Lombard Jean-Claude and Michelle, Lormet Jean and Henriette, Menier Daniel and Danièle, Michaud Louis and Agnès, Mommart Francis, Notteau René and Marie-Madeleine, Michelle Martazier, Novarro Jean and Michelle, Polge Yves and Annie, Wuillaume Maurice and Michel Lejosne.

We all got back home to France. Jeannot was repatriated from Kathmandu with a swelling of the heart, but now he's very well. Jean Ledoux died two years after returning. Louis and Agnes came home one month after us: they had lost a connecting rod and the repair took a long time. Rene had to change his clutch at Lhasa. Francis Fabulet's van came back in a pitiful state. We haven't seen Nelly, the Novarros and the Lombards. Tian and Christopher came to see us all at St. Cheron in 2001. At the end of 2002, we visited South America with Mauricette, Guy Lebourgeois, Eliane and Francis Fabulet.

We are always delighted to see again those who went to China in 2000. and who have the same enthusiasm for wonderful Tibet. Our vehicles are now mended, and soon we will set off again on new adventures.

Christiane Dumas

Come To Scandinavia With Us

It will be Scandinavia next year. In July we are taking our grandchildren (11, 13 and 15 years old) to the capitals and big cities of Europe. We would like to find a family to share our trip.

Paulette Lenoble +44 (0)3 26 842 633

Insurance.

[Part-translated: some untranslated elements of the original are specific to French members only.]

During 10 years of travelling the world, insurance has been one of Jean-Claude Griffoin's principal concerns.

Tiskantour Insurance Alessie Elotplaats 174 3068 VL Rotterdam Tel 31 10 4555 946 Fax 31 10 4555 948 Email alessie@alessie.com Global cover, third party or comprehensive Costly: one year comprehensive in North America costs €3,500

The Oriental Insurance Company Oriental House Asaf Ali Road New Delhi India 110 002 Office at Amritsar: Tel 0183 213 968 Fax 0183 213 868 Third-party: organise it at Bhandari's Guest House in Amritsar, classic stopping place for those going to India

UAP Juan Jose Irigoyen Avenue Cordoba 904 Fifth floor Buenos Aires Argentina Tel/fax 0054 114 325 8609 0054 114 394 7602 Third party in Argentina and neighbouring countries. UAP agent

AAA [American Automobile Club] Insurance Agency Inc 1000 AAA Drive Heathrow Florida [north of Orlando] F1 32746 To be insured with the AAA, you have to be a member of it or its Canadian equivalent. Third party: available for Canada, USA and Mexico. 6 months: €450.

China In the 2002 contract agreed with Yao of China Comfort Travel, there was insurance 80,000 yuans underwritten by the state insurance company. This seems like a good deal, and it would be wise to get this written into any future contracts. [Translation here is not literal].

Seventh European Motorcaravan Festival.

 As usual, you are invited to participate in this huge gathering on 3-6 June 2004 at Aurillac (Dordogne, France). The programme is enticing and if you are not going on the Welsh balade, here's a chance to discover a lovely region of France, and to meet motorcaravanners from all over and specialist constructors.

If you send your registration form and cheque to our Vice-President Bob Perdriau you will pay only €65 (not €75).

The first two outfits (one French-speaking and one English-speaking) who register will have the honour of representing the Association - and thus will only pay half-price, i.e. only €32.50!

For free info on the festival, consult www.feteeuropeenneducampingcar.com, or call +44 (0)1 41 33 47 03, or send a message to caroline.gagnerault@motorpresse.fr.

Send the following details with a cheque (payable to Motor Presse France) to Bob Perdriau, 10 villa Lebegue, 94130 Nogent sur Marne.

Name Forenames Address Postcode Town Telephone Length of vehicle Width

Latest News. And A Trailer For Bulletin 114

Henri and Malou Denis have returned from Africa after recovering their VW. We look forward to hearing details of the return journey. How did the Bamako/Kayes trip go? Did they return via the famous beach? Were they able to drive along [visit?] the Banc d'Arquin [National Park?

Read All About It In The Next Issue along with · the continuation of Michel's account of Togo (2003) · and his NZ journey (2004). · Plus practical info on Canada from Charles Brisson, · and an account of the meeting at Veyzac regarding Siberia/the Baring Straits.

Home - This page last changed on 2005-01-16.