The Silk Route Motorcaravan Club.

Bulletin 108.

October 2003.
Editor (Original edition in French) Jacques Mahaut.
Translated by Rowena Brunning.
Translation Edited by Les Brook.

In this bulletin

• Africa North.
  • Morocco.
  • Tunisia, Libya, Egypt.
• AGM 2003.
  • Club officers.
• America North.
  • Alaska via Russia.
• Australia.
  • Helpful club.
• Balade in Wales.
• China.
• Europe Central.
  • Germany.

• Europe Eastern.
  • Baltic States.
  • Poland.
• Europe North.
  • Nordkapp.
• Greenland.
• India.
• Mediterranean.
  • Circuit of.
• Merc. Sprinter.
  • Spare Wheel.
• Russia.
  • Across Siberia.

AGM 2003.

Saturday 6 September.

After a welcome in our organiser's van, where everyone was given final documents and tools essential to the smooth running of the AGM and the balade, the meeting took place in the very functional hall of the city's theatre space [l'espace culturel]. Because of the local annual flea market, parking was concentrated around the buildings of a disused agricultural co-operative which was proved very pleasant and practical as it was close to the meeting room. 116 people and 55 vans took part in the event. We used a hall which was reasonably close for meals

The AGM began with a welcome to members from Christian Vlaeminck, Mayor of Doullens, President of all the communes in the area, and Vice-President of the General Council of the Somme, who spoke at length about his town.

President of the Association Jacques MAHAUT then handed the chair to Paul Gouwy. Ginette PERDRIAU and Léon HUMM volunteered as tellers and Bob PERDRIAU as secretary.

Extraordinary AGM.

Debate began at 15:00 on amendments to the constitution of the Association to take account of its growth, to avoid insurance problems, and to guard against problems that might occur in the future.

The discussion revolved principally around the definition of different categories of members and the corresponding subscriptions.

After a break, the AGM discussed the re-organisation of the Association, Paul Gouwy outlined the responsibilities and tasks that needed to be undertaken if the Association was to run effectively. So accurate and detailed was the presentation that he was heard in near-religious silence, despite appealing for other opinions to be aired.

Discussion closed at 18.00 so that aperitifs provided by the Association could be taken.

Most participants then took a prepared meal in a room of the Gam Vert, this repast being embellished by an abundance of quetsch plums from the trees of our organiser. In the room, Paul had also prepared a map of the route of the balade du p'tit quinquin, the tour which was to follow the AGM. Tourist info, some in English, was also displayed. Jacques also hung up, in double-sided transparent film, over 200 postcards sent to him by members.

Sunday 7 September.

A dearth of electrical sockets caused a delay in the serving of breakfast, and the AGM only resumed at 9.30.

Continuation Of The Extraordinary AGM.

As the proposals had been well-publicised in B106 and to avoid prolonging discussion unnecessarily, it was proposed that a vote be taken. Items not presented could be topics for debate at future AGMs. The proposals were carried unanimously, and the EAGM closed at 9.45.

Continuation Of The Ordinary AGM.

This began with the identification and listing of those present who were prepared to accept responsibilities as members of the committee [Conseil d'administration]. In addition, names were added of those who had offered help in other areas, and it was agreed that those who had offered general help would be invited to choose amongst roles not yet filled. Finally, in the Bulletin there would be a general appeal to all members to help fill any remaining vacant posts.

In light of this, the proposed organisation of the Association, as amended at the EAGM, was put to a vote and supported unanimously.

A long discussion then followed concerning journeys, insurance for long-distance travel, and the construction of a road across Mauritania which appears to be underway. Jean-Claude Griffoin announced that he had put together a long document on info which might be helpful for anyone planning a trip to China. It was also noted that a group led by Rene Notteau is being established with the idea of travelling to north America via the Bering Straits. Several other trips were mentioned - see below.

The balade next Spring to Wales and its itinerary were presented by Peter Milner who signed up the first members. Registration numbers for this balade are limited by the capacity of the campsites. The 2004 AGM was also mentioned (to be held at Arnac-la-Poste?). The linked balade could take place in the Ardeche or Larzac for example. The Pyrenees were also proposed but nothing is fixed at the moment. We await volunteers!

The two annual reports published in B107 were commented on briefly, and carried. NB The balance is €5058. This includes €5090 in receipts for the AGM and balade but the expenses for these have not been included.

The meeting re-assembled to watch Jean-Claude Griffoin's excellent video of China 2002, followed by an equally good film, voyage to India by Jean Abry. Thanks to the efforts of the hall manager, a local fireman, these were watched on a giant screen.

A great many people then returned to the dining hall for another meal, once more adorned with kilos of quetsches.

As you will appreciate, there are still some situations vacant! As a bonus, some names have been written in 'officially': some of you (in italics) were not present at the AGM and we took advantage of you like the cowards we are!

The Picardy meal served in the dining hall was greatly enjoyed.

The service was excellent but the meal ended late because the caterer was hindered by the hall's poor facilities.

Balade in Wales - It's Full!

The 25 places available were booked at the AGM! But following our appeal, Peter and Janet Milner are going to try and find places to stay (but in different campsites, that's the problem), or alternatively they may organise a second group following 24 hours after the first. Precise details will be given in the next bulletin.

The balade is planned for 12 days and 13 nights, meeting point on the parking at the Rhondda Heritage Park. The cost per vehicle is €360 approx (or €225 for a single person). The deposit is €80 to be sent to the Treasurer.

If there is to be a second group, we must have 20 more vans.

Across Siberia To Alaska Via The Bering Straits.

Alaska. (Par le Detroit de Bering)

At Doullens, members interested in the trip to North America via Siberia in 2004 got together with René Notteau.

To facilitate the crossing of Siberia from west to east at the best time of year (info from Russian Embassy: temperatures will be +30C by day and -5C at night), the date for leaving France is planned for mid-June at the latest. From Paris to Moscow, the Michelin Guide recommends France-Belgium-Germany-Poland-Belarus-Russia, 2900kms including 1180kms of motorway to be completed in seven days.

After the sights of Moscow, several itineraries are possible:

1. M5 from Moscow to Ufa, 1475kms, visiting Kolomna and Penza.
2. M7 from Moscow to Ufa, 1290kms, 460 on good roads, with visits to Vladimir, Niznij Nogoro and Kazan.
3. M51 from Kurgan to Omsk, 533kms. Transit visa (125kms) will be required for the short crossing through Kazakhstan, with a visit to Petropavlovs. After the visits to Onsk and Novosibirsk on the M51, the travellers would like to pass though Mongolia, via the M52 further south, to reach Lake Baikal. This idea will be examined by Ferdinand Kohn and reported on to the next preparatory meeting.
4. Avoiding Kazakhstan from Kurgan to Onsk, 930kms (est), travelling only on tracks.
5. By the M53 from Novosibirsk to Listvjanka (1900kms), visiting Krasnojarsk and Irkutsk. From Listvjanka it will be possible to have a cruise on Baikal.
6. By the M55 from Listvjanka to Tchita (1200kms, visiting Ulan-Ude and Cita. From Tchita to Never, no road is practicable for our vans so we are dependant on the railway (1500kms) for this section. Through Madame Inna BALIEVA of 'Rafale A', and with the agreement of the Russian consulate in Paris, an email received om 5 September permits members of our party to accompany their vehicles in the same train on condition that they book this train and that a professional guide accompanies from Irkutsk. To take the vans on this train and to get an idea of costs, we are asked to pass on details of their size. Of the members present at our meeting, 12 interested units gave details of their vehicles. To find out the cost, we have decided to send all this info in writing to our Russian contact and to tell her of our intention to stop off for a visit to the sights of Ulan-Ude and Cita, that our vehicles average speed is 30kph and that we don't need a guide until after Tchita, ie six days after arrival in Irkutsk.
7. From Nevers to Magadan, it is 3000kms, 1800kms on tracks, visiting Nerjungri, Aldan, Kerdem, Jakutsk, Curapca, Ytyk-Kjuël and Magadan.

From Paris to Magadan, this journey will take about two months for the 13700kms, 1500 of which will be on the train.

Our passage from the port of Magadan should normally allow us a visit by boat to the Russian peninsular of Kamchatka but, up to now, our contacts in Russia don't seem to be au fait with the movement of boats on this route, perhaps served by Japanese boats rather than Russian?

The only Russian sea link possible would be via the Sea of Okhotsk, from Magadan -Nikolaevsk-na-Amure-Vladivostok.

From Vladivostok there is a Russian sea link to Petropavlovsk-Kamcatskij on the Kamchatka peninsular. To visit the many volcanoes, of which 29 are active, and the bears, no track is suitable for our vans. We are therefore dependant on local transport, 6x6 lorries which are essential for river crossings and other dangerous tracks, and helicopter (when there are no tracks). Watch out for the costs of these visits!

It has been decided that RN will contact the Japanese tourist office in Paris to obtain complementary info on our chances of reaching Alaska by sea. It has also been agreed to study two new possible ways of reaching the Russian port of Vladivostok:

1. Only in Russia, by rail from Tchita to Habarovsk and then by road to Vladivostok.
2. By road or tracks from Tchita to the Chinese frontier at Manzhouli and through Inner Mongolia with a transit visa to return to Russia at Heihe - Blagvescensk - Habarovsk - Vladivostok.

Germain Oliete suggests researching by email the maritime possibilities from a Russian port, Magadan, Nikolaevsk-na-Amure or Vladivostok, to get us to Alaska, or if not, the port of Vancouver in Canada, certainly via Japan.

Paul Boby suggests his local area (Cantal) as being more central for the next planning meeting for interested members, in November. Rene will send details to interested members of possible itineraries by email or post and they will be studied at the next meeting.

Expeditions Planned.

Greenland (August 2003): Daniel Meunier

India (end of 2003)...if we find travelling companions: Daniel Meunier

Trans-Mediterranean: Egypt (end 2003 - start 2004)

Following the article by Armand and Sylviane Pourteau in B104 and 105, five units met (and also at Doullens) to plan our trip. We are de Jean-Claude and Yvette Chesneau, José and Claude Gasull, Bob and Ginette Perdriau, René and Jacqueline Tanguy, Antoine and Michèle Thimjo. Three possible itineraries:

1. Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Jordan, Syria, Turkey, Greece, Italy (3 months).
2. Italy, Greece, Egypt, Jordan, Syria, Turkey, Greece, Italy (2.5-3 months).
3. Italy, Crete (with a 1-2 week stopover), Egypt, and return (2months).

Dates: Dec-Feb or Jan-Feb.

Particular problem: the carnet de passage for Egypt and its bond, 2.5x the value of the vehicle. Suggestions and advice

• from J-C Griffoin: apply to the Automobile Club of Toulon, through him.
• from Simone Moriot: apply to the German club ADAC(not such a high bond).
• from Jean Abry: an Italian-Greek would cover the vehicles for itinerary 3 provided that the return journey is made using them. Fixed price [?], no bond.

Morocco (Winter 2003/4), many are leaving.

Other plans will be included in the next bulletin.

Destination Nordkapp.

Summer 2003 (from 25 July to 24 August).

In no way put off by the floods in Hungary and Romania in Summer 2002, we aimed northwards, limiting our ambition, but with a prestigious destination in the 'person' of Nordkapp (North Cape).

Fortune favoured us: the omnipresent sun enabled us to appreciate in all its glory the wild nature and colourful landscapes of Scandinavia. An excellent choice, combining coolness (much appreciated in this Summer's scorching heat, and Lapland's change of scenery with its forests, fjords and lakes.

Friday, time to set off. During this first stage, our team is reduced in size; only Vivien (16) is with us. But from the Meuse, all the family are there, with Aymeric (18) and Maxine (13).

Devouring the kms, on Sunday evening, Dany and Philippe reach the Danish port of Robyhaven, a picturesque halt after the ferry and our first swim in Nordic waters. Scarcely delayed at all by Swedish bottlenecks, and a long stop for fishing and berry-gathering on the lakeside of Storsjoon (route from 'isard futé', looking for myrtles), we arrived, Tuesday evening, in Trondheim, the most northerly point of our 1993 visit which had enabled to discover, mostly in the rain, Copenhagen, Oslo, and the fjords of SW Norway.

Far different from our memory - quiet and peaceful - of a superb cathedral and warehouses on colourful piles, Trondheim today appears lively and busy as a music festival fills its streets and harbour with young people and concerts. A car park, alongside the canals, shelters us for the night and we almost feel like sailors.

Further north, a refreshing stop allows us to admire the rock paintings of Bolarein: reindeer, bears, birds, and above all a skier from 6,000 years ago with long, non-parallel skis. At midday, the Lakvakvarium museum shows us the salmon in all its guises. Next to waterfalls, we are locked in wonder watching them leap and twist about.

The road gets steeper after Mosjoen, with rocky [?] lakes and snow-covered mountain-tops. What a fairyland of greens, colours, clouds (few but brightly coloured), blue, silvery or green waters, full of light. A fire opposite a picture postcard lake enables us to cook pork chops and Aymeric, galvanised into action by the sights of the morning, tries his hand at fishing with mixed success. First a trout, released, and then catching a submerged piece of metal, necessitating a freezing night-time plunge.

Thursday 31 July. I almost missed the Arctic Circle, so we went back to have breakfast on the symbolic but touristy car park. Barren scenery, like a desert, a world of stones, snow and cairns. Even the weather deteriorated, with rain, cold and wind. But very soon, to our great delight, the trees and the sun returned to the scene accompanied by the first Lapps in costume.

Fauske was a technical stop and the tourist bureau informed us that it was not necessary to book for the Bodo-Lofoten ferry, and a supermarket and a motorcaravan park enable us to stock up with, as a bonus, a visit to the small open air museum. A short wait in Bodo - just time for a meal and then the family went on board for a four hour cruise, intoxicated by the spectacle, the sun and the wind.

Worthy of their reputation, the Lofoten Islands came into sight in a harmonious blend of sea and mountains underlined by the red homes of cod fishermen. And their visit started at the beginning. [The town of] A and its car park received us for two nights. The lads pitched their tent facing the sea, between rocks and sea, our first cod, seagulls' cries, bike trip, bathing, buying salmon… what an international change of scenery! At night, only ten vehicles remained, but representing eight different nationalities.

Discovering the islands amazed us. The well-named Queen, worthy inspiration of artists, surprised us with its contrasts and colours. Sund seemed lost and picturesque. Flakstad invited us to bathe on its fine, sandy beach with its dolphins and emerald waters. A bathe, a bit chilly but so pleasant that the whole family joined in. At Nusfjord, fishing dominated, a village of scarlet rorbu cottages on piles where, amongst pregnant odours, thousands of cod were hung out to dry.

Giving the impression of a Turkish or Ionian creek, the turquoise waters at Haukland near to Uttakleiv appeared between the cliffs to make an idyllic bivouac, facing the beach or after the tunnel (farming village of Uttakleiv with cheap toll). BBQ, night under the stars, bathing, pancakes… a very late multi-coloured sunset - the night was slow to come or did not come at all.

Next morning, Dany went through the tunnel in the van, as Philippe and Vivien went up the coast on foot. A wild ramble with only a few sheep, grebes and seabirds enlivening the scenery. A strenuous game of beach volleyball followed by a swift bathe warmed us all up. The tour continued via Steine and Stamsund, then on a road tasting of the end of the world until we reached a wildcamp at Eggum, after a small toll. Always this succession of fjords with little shimmering houses, this so unusual mix of sky and sea with rainbow reflections, at times emphasised by original creations features of the sculptural landscape of Nordland (head of Marcuse Raetz at Eggum). Henningvaer, the Venice of the north, charmed us with its wooden bridges, its boats and fishermen's houses, followed the tiny port of Kabelvag and shopping in Svolvaer to get food, especially salmon and Norwegian pastries.

Already 4 th August, it was time to change islands. Whilst waiting for the ferry to Vesteralen at Fiskebol, we met some nice, friendly young Swiss who were doing 'our' tour in reverse and the information they gave us was eventually most useful. Inspired by this, we aimed for Sto at the end of the island with the idea of a whale safari. A specially adapted fishing boat, a small museum for detailed explanation, and forty of us went on board for the trip. This was a memorable day, when the animals played their parts well, what a wildlife spectacle! After the first island, birds and seals lit up the sea, sky and rocks. Puffins with clowns' beaks, and the majesty of a white eagle - they soared, flew and dived alone or in groups, cormorants, huge skuas, grebes, oystercatchers, gannets what a performance! Then the lively porpoises joined in the fun, a development we found breathtaking.

Larger and larger, first the black globycephales [similar to dolphins] , in pairs, in groups, followed at close quarters, very, very close, backs, pinions, heads and tails all shown, a procession lasting more than an hour. Finally and best of all, male sperm whales, spotted in the distance because of their jets of mist, come closer, displaying their grace and strength, almost 50 tons rippling, and suddenly raising their tails and diving for a good quarter of an hour.

By now it was 19.00 hours and time to go. Still full of images, we made our way towards the ancient fishing village of Nysksund, Dany and the van on an adventurous track, Phil and Aymeric on the rough path alongside with its panorama, beaches and myrtles. At Andeness, a ferry allowed us to return to the island of Senja, its fjord and the small port of Gryllefjord. Then there appeared the Ham peninsular, very picturesque with its necklace of tiny islands and its green waters.

Back again on the E6, the main road. Lots of motorcaravans re-appeared - German, Norwegian, Italian but only occasionally French. The road went alongside the blue-green waters and often we encountered lay-bys with very practical wooden tables; even though the temperature was falling, meals, including breakfast, were often taken outdoors.

As the vegetation lessened and shrank in size, the reindeer appeared. Initially in the distance and scattered, then quickly becoming part of the landscape which included surprising woods. Gildestum, fabulous viewpoint, gave us our first chance to buy Sami [Lapp] goods. Intrigued by the pickers, we even tried lakkas or orange blackberries from the marshes. We enjoyed our first proper campsite at Repparfjord on the road to Hammerfest with its hot showers, waterfalls, myrtles and mushrooms. A toll tunnel, expensive for vehicles over 6m, and then we were at last on the island of Nordkapp. The northernmost point in Europe, very touristy with its museum and 'cinema', it's worth the trip for its cliff with a globe on top, and we let our imagination run free, enjoying the symbolic pictures of the sun and the sea.

But on our left, the Knivskjelodden laughed at us - it proved to be more northerly still, at 71deg11'08. We quickly decided to go there and set off about 19.00 for a wildcamp in the tent. Rucksacks on our back, we soon were looking at a path marked by cairns and watched by astonished reindeers. In an atmosphere like a raiding party, with wind, cold and even some rain, we gradually neared Nordkapp.

This time we pitched the tent at the very end of the pointing mountain conditions. The night was short. It stayed light even though we did not get the midnight sun because of the time of year and the distant clouds. The night was especially short for Philippe and Aymeric who were chilly because they had no duvet. But the night was beautiful in the wild solitude of the conquered 'peak'.

The tiny port of Skarvag sheltered us for a well-deserved rest, a sisesta, and a very good night. Then via a deserted road, we came back to Gjesvaer for breakfast, then Honningsvag to buy a few souvenirs. Our midday stop beneath the sign Nordkapp Kommune was remarkable for a fishing opportunity, though it was small-scale, with Richard's rods.

After Karasjok to pick up some duty-free, we arrived in Finland. Very keen, Aymeric tried fishing for salmon in the Teno valley at night. A great spot was found 20kms before Utsjoki but no salmon allowed itself to be caught, so the fishing licence (€20 per night) was not paid for by the catch.

A deserted road and an early morning start…. and three huge, nimble élans appeared near marshland. Really wild, they were a change from reindeer which were now so commonplace, we only just missed colliding with one. The Sami museum at Inari was rich and modern, interesting, instructive, and exciting: wolf traps and fishing videos, the vital ways of using reindeers handed down through ancient customs. The lounas (a meal costing €5) that followed was a ragout of reindeer and grilled fish.

Now it was 12 August, and at 14.00 we reached the campsite at Ukonjarvi near Ivalo; very good position and well-equipped. And we took advantage of this, from the boat trip to the BBQ in a hut, from the washing machine to the sauna with a splash in the lake, even though the useless tumble dryer left us with a mountain of wet washing to cope with.

The endless forests - pine, spruce, birch - tightly hug the lakes, marshes and houses. This environment expresses the differences in weather and soil. At Tankavaara, a botanical path in a nature reserve gave us a chance to discover sphagnum in a sloping marsh - tree-shaped in the form of a candle to better resist snow, falling birches.

Camping Lapin Prava: what a welcome! We found the sauna with a traditional wood stove and then followed it with an invigorating plunge in the lake. Thursday 14 August: happy birthday Philippe. After some hesitation, we opted for a day canoeing. The descent of the Puhajoki was organised through the campsite and cost €30 per boat. The oars got stuck in the grasses and delicately caught between the water lilies. Peacefully, along the water, nature revealed itself: a day's paddling, fishing, solitude, discovery. And then in the evening, an unusual birthday celebration with Lapp presents, a pulka [knife] and a CD of authentic music.

At Pyhatunturi we decided against the ski station - too grassy for our taste - and took the botanical path and the Isokura gorge, though the term 'footpath' seemed inappropriate For these refined for these refined pathways with boards, steps, picnic spots with tables, wood and an axe - what unaccustomed comfort!

The access was surprising: via a sloping track we reach the pleasant Jyrava campsite on the edge of the Oulanka nature park. Comfortably settled beside the lake, we lit a fire to cook the sausages, potatoes and the fish caught by the boys… what excellent, rustic hot meals, suitably enhanced by Lapin Kulta, the local beer, and very much appreciated after the sauna and swim which by now were customary.

Another walk, the little bear circuit - about 12kms - was unmissable. Setting off from the campsite, we were soon deep inside this exceptional nature park. The atmosphere was created by the first suspension bridge, and later the path meandered through forests and marshes and followed streams or climbed up cliffs. An abundance of myrtles gave us energy and we stopped to enjoy the panoramas, especially superb at the Jyrava rapids and at the Kallioportti cliff.

Monday 18 August: after a great day, we decided to return via Sweden. On the way, we had a brief stop at Rovaniemi to discover that Santa Claus was away on holiday and, as I had some scores to settle with him, I will have to wait! A KKKK to stock up, and we went along nicely on the Swedish roads, at a good speed despite some extensive stretches of roadworks.

After a night near Ornskoldsvik, we reached Stockholm and its Autocamper [campsite] - very practical (cost 150KS per night), on the small island of Langholmen, NW of Soderman. The underground enabled us to reach and visit easily the old city, palace, quays, with the added bonus of a meal in Stora Nygatan. An old city with an amazing number of islands, with boats, well-to-do houses, really enormous, Nordic colours, coiled up in a casket of trees, sea and greenery.

More of the unexpected in the Vasa museum. This ship, the Vasa, had an odd history: on the day of its launch, it sailed on a few hundred metres before disappearing in the mud, only to be re-floated three centuries later. Its design faults thus made it world-famous and its value enabled the establishment of an original museum, very rich in history.

Our final stopover became almost a summary Crossing Germany always seems a delicate matter because of the volume of traffic. Having reached France, we greedily pounced on bread and pastries. All truly and deservedly enjoyed the taste of home. The heat gradually increased, surprised us by its effect on the meadows and on our own habits, and invited us to swim. We stopped at the Etang de Bertaud near le Creusot.

of our visit. Legoland, at Billund in Denmark, caught the attention of the youngsters with its funfair, and all of us with its admirable Lego creations. Fairytale stuff! We are all like big kids in front of the realistic, colourful, animated models of Copenhagen or Bergen, of Scotland or Japan, from the airport to the three-rise locks… from reality to dreams or vice-versa.

Sunday 24 August: after 9887kms, we reached Pompertuzat in the suburbs of Toulouse. Certain that Norway had also beaten the records for heat. But having no warning, the Summer drought knocked us 'cold' and when we arrived at our own garden, we were able to measure the extent and duration of the Summer heat by reading the papers and looking around us.

What a winning choice! We had been able to enjoy in sunshine, with no mosquitoes, in comfort and warmth, the trump cards of Scandinavia and Lapland. We had reached Nordkapp, and even its alter ego. But it was really the subtleties of the trip, the exceptional stays in Lofoten and Lapland, the busy and even exciting atmosphere of those friendly family holiday weeks, which were responsible for the delights and the success of this journey.

Philippe Thévenet.

Tour Of Berlin, Poland, Belarus, Russia, Baltic States, Germany.

17 April - 14 June 2003 (continued from B107)

Met very young people in folk costumes, celebrating going to university. They are very happy to exchange ideas with French people, but in the language of Shakespeare. Others take part in a sports display.

Back to the vans and dinner.

24 May 2003- 40 km. Set off for Rostov, one of the oldest Russian cities. The metropolitan (archbishop of the Orthodox Church) Jonas Syosoientch built the Kremlin, the only one perfectly preserved on the banks of Lake Nero. It consists of a cathedral and several churches. In one building we admire a very lovely collection of enamels of religious inspiration, the town's speciality. At mid-day we enjoy a concert of bells rung by very talented bell ringers. Then off to Pereslavi-Zalesski, on the shore of Laske Plechtcheievo where Peter the Great laid the foundations of his fleet. We go to the town centre to visit the Cathedral of the Transfiguration, and the Danilovski Monastery.

Park in a hotel car park, surrounded by forest, on the edge of a pond. Enchanting spot infested with mosquitoes. On entering we are welcomed by a bear in a cage, pacing round 'like a caged bear' poor beast.

Dinner at the hotel restaurant. An evening of dancing with Russians, super atmosphere!

25 May 2003. Serguiev-Possad end of the Golden Ring. Very impressive visit to Trinity monastery. Inside there are 10 churches, also 2 cathedrals and the Czar's Palace now occupied by a theological academy. There are currently 800 students there. Again we listen to a concert of bells. The Golden Ring, extraordinary cities. All along this tour one gets deep into the heart of Russia, the beauty and the poverty go side by side in these cities. Housing and public transport are in ruins.

26 May 2003- 460 km. Leave Pereslavi-Zalesski for St Petersburg, by motorway as far as Serguiev-Possad (M8). Then the A108 to join the N10 at Kun and go as far as Valday on the way to St Petersburg. Park next to a hotel on the shore of Lake Valdey. The lake and its surroundings are very picturesque. On the way there, some roads were in poor condition.

27 May 2003.- 367 km. Leave in the morning still heading for St Petersburg. About 20 km before St Petersburg, we stop at Pavlovsk to visit the Palace of Paul the First and his wife Maria Feodorovna, surrounded by a huge country park.

We set off again in late afternoon to reach the camping/hotel, on the edge of St Petersburg in a wooded location. The journey through town passed without too much difficulty.

28 May 2003. Set off by coach in the morning to visit St Petersburg. First we do a tour of the city then we go to Peterhof, summer residence of the Czars, on the shore of the Gulf of Finland. Wonderful park inspired by Versailles, with many waterfalls and fountains. Inside the Great Palace, what luxury! In the afternoon, boat trip on the canals which run through the city. Special commentary for us about the monuments which lie alongside the canals.

29 May 2003. Visit to St Petersburg. First the Hermitage, made up of several buildings: Winter Palace, Hermitage, Hermitage Theatre. Amazing collections in an excess of luxury. Because of the number of visitors in the celebration of its tri-centenary, we are forced to go quickly through the rooms. For art-lovers it would be essential to plan several days to visit this sight. Moreover, on account of the arrival there of 43 Heads of State, we were not allowed access to all the rooms. We'll go back there! In the afternoon a visit to the fortress of Peter and Paul on an island in the Neva. Main building here is the collegiate of St Peter and St Paul. It contains many imperial tombs. After dinner, back to St Petersburg. Some members of our group are going to see "Swan Lake", others are strolling round the city streets or else going by metro to see some stations which are as good as those in Moscow. We choose this third option. On our way back we pass the cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ which marks the place where the Emperor Alexander was assassinated.

30 May 2003. We continue our visit to St Petersburg where we attend a ritual Orthodox Mass at St Nicolas' Church. The faithful remain standing during the service. It can last several hours, depending on the liturgical calendar. Very surprising to Catholics. Then we go to St Isaac's Cathedral. Unfortunately we cannot visit it. It is a sensitive sector, near the hotel where the US President is staying. Instead we go shopping in Nevski Avenue (the Champs-Elysees of St Petersburg), vodka, caviar and various souvenirs.

On the way back we stop near the 'laurel' Alexander Nevski (this title of laurel is reserved for main Orthodox monasteries). Behind the main entrance are two cemeteries one on each side of the drive leading to the monastery. Inside rest celebrities, notably Dostoievsky, Tchaikovsky, Mussorgysky, Rimsky-Korsakov - a bit like 'Pere La Chaise' in Paris.

Evening reception for the end of tour dinner. Huge meal with vodka in abundance to the accompaniment of Russian folk singers and dancers. Thus ends our journey in Russia.

The tri-centenary of St Petersburg attracted an number of important tourists. The arrival of Heads of State for the St Petersburg Summit did not make our visit easier. Travel by private car was not allowed. We managed to find our way in despite everything. However, some places were closed, but we think we saw the essentials.

Baltic States.

Exchange: Estonia 1 EEK = 0.065 euros. Latvia 1 Lat = 2 euros. Lithuania 1 Litas = 0.343 euros.

31 May 2003 - 290 km. This morning we drive to the Estonia border at Ivangorod/Narva where we say a warm goodbye to our guides. We adjust our watches to one hour behind. No great difficulties crossing the frontier. Our group of motorcaravanners splits up and each goes their own way. For us, it is essential to keep to our return date for our daughter's wedding and we have to travel quite quickly. We make our way towards Tallinn. Make a detour to Kunda at the seaside to spend the night and park up near the harbour.

1 June 2003 - 224 km. Leave for Tallinn parking at the entrance to the old town on a supervised car park. Little winding streets, houses by the hundred from the Middle Ages. One section is built on the hill of Toompea and surrounded by steeply sloping enclosures. It's worth spending some time there. Getting back from our walk we are shocked to discover that the lock of our van has been forced. Theft of our mobile, radio and some clothes, The French Vice-Consul helps us fill in the police report. Not very pleasant!

We set off again following the Baltic Coasts, then join the Parnu Road, the 4, and stop at Kernu in a quiet campsite with all amenities, paying €10.

2 June 2003 - 308 km. We drive on as far as Parnu, towards Riga. At Haademeestre we drive alongside the sea on a little local road, very nice, as far as the Latvian frontier at Ikla. Border crossing without problems, continue driving along sea road, the A1 to Saulkrasti. Then we head for Sigulda on the local road. We spend the night on a campsite beside the river Gauja.

3 June 2003 - 282 km. In the morning visit to Turaida Castle, on the other side of the river; red brick fort with a very high tower affording a superb view over river and park. We set off again towards Riga. Stopover in a closed, guarded car park near Riga's old town. We visit the historic heart of the city which is accessible on foot only, a maze of cobbled streets, built under Germanic influence: a lot of it still remains to be restored. Not to be missed.

Leave for the Lithuanian border, heading for Vilnius. At the customs, formalities straight forward and compulsory insurance for the vehicle (€25 euros: only cash accepted). We take the fast track M12. We travel 80 km with no motorway stop or petrol station. A few signs mention hotel with parking space off the main road (on some there is a sign of a caravan which means overnight stops). Thus we go to a hotel car park beside a lake, where we dined for €9.50 for two people.

4 June 2003 - 143 km. Continue towards Vilnius. Stop along an avenue close to the old town situated partly on a hill. Worth a detour.

In the afternoon set off for Trakai, on the Marijampole road, A229. Trakai, old medieval city in a green setting surrounded by big lakes. Its red brick fortified castle is built on a peninsula. Don't miss it! Stop at Kenpingas Scenyje campsite for a night by the lake.

Because we had to keep to our return date we quickly crossed the Baltic States. We can't give enough information about these three.

Poland.

5 June 2003 - 436 km. Set off towards Poland. Crossed the border at Sangruda (Budzisko on Polish side), no problems, towards Olsztyn. Left by N8 as far as Suwalki; then the local road which joins the N16 at Kalinowo. We cross the Mazurie on the lakes' road, very touristy, valleys and woodland. The majority of this road is narrow and in a bad state. Continue towards Grudziads. Stop before Itawa on car park for the night.

6 June 2003 - 436 km. Set off towards Poznan via Bydgoszcz, then Gniezno. Then towards Wroclaw, town where we didn't stop on our outward journey. We spent the night on a car park about 20 km from Wroclaw.

Germany.

7 June 2003 - 298 km. Visit the old town of Wroclaw. Then the Rynek, then Krakow. In the ancient centre, the town hall is one of the most beautiful in Poland and worth the detour. We take the A4 to go back to Germany. The appalling state of the motorway forced us to take a parallel secondary road, the 363. We rejoin the N4 at Boleslawiec to cross the border at Gorlitz and we take the A4 motorway to Dresden. Stop at the 'Wiesentor Strasse' situated between Augustus Bridge and Canal Bridge, reserved for motor caravans. This is well signposted all through the town, cost is €6 for 24 hours. It's a shaded site on the bank of the Elbe, below the old town.

8 June 2003 - 382 km. Visit the old town of Dresden one of the most important tourist centres of Germany. It doesn't seem to have suffered too much in the 2001 floods. We begin by the Zwinger, a huge square surrounded by galleries and baroque architectural pavilions, near the Opera, an old Catholic church -Notre Dame - and the renaissance-style castle.

9 June 2003 - 470 km. We leave Germany by the motorway and return to France.

10 - 13 June 2003- 492 km. We arrived in Chateauroux and the 14th is the wedding day of our daughter.

16 June 2003- 103 km. Visit member of our family in Poitiers where catastrophe strikes! A violent hailstorm hammers the van and its aluminium shell cannot withstand the attack. In addition, the windscreen is damaged by a falling roof tile, that's the lot.

18 June 2003- 932 km in two days. Return to the fold.

Denis and Simone Lahaye.

Jean-Claude Griffoin is at the disposal of anyone wishing to see his account of China 2002. The 64 pages give full details of the problems encountered. Please send your request in writing together with €8 to cover photocopying and postage.

Postcards From...

Lucien and Jeanne Rudolf, Sollies-Pont. Thank you for all your cards which stunned and comforted us greatly. In hospital (for who long?), with your support we dream of future trips, however short and small-scale they may be.

Marie-Jo and Rémy Chaigneau, Niort, 23 September. A huge thank you to everyone for having thought of us at the AGM; we were touched by your card. We were really looking forward to getting to know that Nord Pas-de-Calais region and to finishing up at the Baie de Somme, the cherry on the cake.

Félix and Hélène Fenech, Manosque. Two pleasant items through the post - the bulletin and then the card which our friends were kind enough to complete , and we found there all those with whom we would have liked to chat, exchange news and have a drink (or two). Thank you, and long live heart-warming fellowship. What a shame about the plans we might have shared with you.

Daniel Meunier. I have a motorcaravan based on a Merc Sprinter. I want to give it a second spare wheel. I don't want to attach it to the door, not to hoist it up on to the roof. Does anybody have another suggestion? Thank you in advance to whoever can give me an idea of how to solve this problem.

Jeannot and Gudrun Dinée, 8 September. A big HELLO to friends. After 14,000kms, we are safely back from the north and the east. Hearty thanks for all the cards, emails and phone calls. Forgive me if I don't reply to each one immediately. Hoping that you are all well, both adults and children, and that the return home is cool - we send our love.

Erwin, Laetitia, Ingrid and Eva Münch. Now that we are celebrating the first year of our amazing adventure and the 10,000th visitor to our website, we now have the pleasure of announcing our 13th travel notebook. A year already, and so much happiness. From the western shore of Vancouver island where we are enjoying a superb Indian summer, we thank you for reading our reports and so faithfully writing to us.

Madeleine and Marcel Milliard, Arnac, 16 September. We have thought often of you, and had hoped, without being too confident, that we might be able to be at Doullens for the AGM. Unfortunately, we had to be with you in thought only. Words cannot express our pleasure at the gestures of sympathy in the postcard. Fortunately, we have a magnifying glass and a good lamp to decipher all your messages. Thanks once again, see you soon hopefully; it goes without saying that in Arnac we always welcome someone who drops by.

Andrée Arend, Liré, 26 September. Thanks to all for your help, your support, anmd all the phone calls I have had asking for news of how I'm getting on. Friendship is not just a mere word and I send you all my love.

It must be said that our friend Andree scared us by taking off, not into the air but on to the concrete ground, after a lovely party in Etaples. More a case of fear than harm done it seems, and an opportunity to test the response time of the emergency services.