The Silk Route Motorcaravan Club.

Bulletin 107.

September 2003.
Editor (Original edition in French) Jacques Mahaut.
Translated by Rowena Brunning, translation typed (and edited sort of) by Ann Barker, with a bit more work by Les Brook.

In this bulletin...

• Africa NW.
• Africa South.
  • Namibia.
• AGM 2003.
  • Financial report.
  • President's report.
• America North.
  • Alaska.
• Asia Central.
  • Trips planned.
• Belarus.

• Europe Central.
  • Germany.
• Europe Eastern.
  • Poland.
• France.
  • Alsace.
  • Tour.
• New Zealand.
• Russia.

France/Burkina-Faso 2003 : Ouagadougou and the North-East

For the benefit of those who are following this account, may I remind you that I, René Caillié, a ghost, have carefully flown over the epic journey of the Association, Camping-Cars sur les Routes de la Soie, as they travelled on African roads. (For Asia, you must call on Marco Polo). In particular I have followed the Barbaudy/Demontes/Mahaut group and I meet up with them again today, 17 February 2003, for the first spins in Burkina-Faso.

Thiou. Pass for the vehicle - unlimited duration, 5000 cfa Francs. Very friendly police and customs men. Good dirt track to Ouahigouja, first permanent buildings, camp a few km from the capital and tarmac road as far as Ouagadougou (toll on arrival 200 cfa). Flat countryside, villages with round banco houses, shrubs and herds of cattle and goats. The entry into town is easy; after Nouarkchott and Bamako, it's like a dream, you can actually see the pavements!

It is now February 18th. The search for a place for parking overnight is not easy. This time the consulate is not very helpful (for now). A guide takes them away by boat. In vain they told him they want a hotel with a garden, nothing he shows them is suitable, and in addition he's not a nice character. Fisticuffs only just avoided. It's good staying with the nuns at the Lauriers, near the cathedral, but the travellers are not allowed to sleep in the vans, never mind, it's just the once, and since the prices are affordable, the Demontes and Mahauts book two rooms. Michel and Daniel prefer their usual accommodation and go to camp at the OK'Inn Hotel (see bulletin 104). The first day's plan, for cities, is now well established: after accommodation, repairs! Enquiries at the Mercedes garage, which can also do VW servicing. The vibrations in the exhaust are worrying, the welding carried out at Atar has not held out. Michel has also some little jobs to do. The vehicles are left there, and they return by taxi (cheap: 200 cfa per person).

Lunch in a 'marquis' near the cathedral, run by an Ivory Coast refugee. Clean, decent meal; nothing for dessert! They ask him at least to get us some bananas - and he does so. But the extra trouble costs a lot 5fcfa a banana (normally the price of the whole bunch!). Visit to the town - very lively; the innumerable bikes and mopeds give a bit of colour in the traffic. A few wide new roads and modern buildings.

Next day, February 20th we get the van back. The bill for the VW does include cleaning the engine, but back at the Laurels, Jacques realises that the job has not been done. He'll have to go back. Lovely craft centre with attractive, cheap bronzes. It is there that Lucette makes her mark. These bronzes are so beautiful that she forgets to watch her feet (which are lovely too) and crash! A little stool has crept in front of her. It's a great dive, followed by a flood of tears! She obviously has badly sprained her wrist. Jacques picks up a few bits of tooth from the gutter. (Luckily it isn't raining!).

The Mahauts go back to the waiting taxi, to head for the medical centre (in the end the visit to the consulate was not in vain). The staff are attentive and very kind, but the X-ray can't be done there and the taxi goes off, waits and comes back with Jacques, Lucette and the results. Jacques takes advantage of the opportunity to have his stitches removed (see previous chapter). The doctor puts a pot on Lucette's arm. The secretary cables the Paris helpline. Repatriation? Hospitalisation? Are Jacques and Lucette going to abandon their friends? What will they choose to do? You will find out in the next number.

No, I can't leave you in this unbearable suspense.

Initially, Lucette decides to carry on with the journey. As the plan is to go towards the north of the country, it will be easy to go via Ouaga and decide there. Backs to the Laurels. No room left, all is reserved for the Fespaco! But because of the good relations I have up there, the Mahauts keep their room, the Demontes however will have to sleep in their van, at the Dominican Fathers nearby. Back on the road? No, on the 21st, a further visit to the medical centre where vaccinations against meningitis are offered to the travellers. Whilst Lucette rests, in the afternoon we visit the stone sculptors. Interesting. Everyone meets up at the OK' Inn for a final night in Ougaga.

The 22nd, a tarred road from Ouagadougou to Kaja. Flat countryside, with bush, lovely round houses, woven cereal granaries, mounted on interwoven fences. The road gets dusty, but is still drivable. Little lakes at Tou-gouri and Jalco; to run alongside them, the track becomes a dike and meanders between two hedges. Stopover at Bani. 7 banco mosques, they were built by a rich merchant who wanted the different Islamic sects to have each their own place of worship. The people are friendly, the kids beggars. Dori, large unattractive village, 55 km drive to Gorum Gorum. We lunch in a hut, on our way into the town, at the Rissa campsite. The family's eldest son, aged 19, will be our guide for the 65 km track towards Gandafabou. On the way, the big d'Ourci pool scarcely shows up in the totally flat terrain. At this time of day, not much to see, the birds must be sleeping in the cool parts, and it would be necessary to stay the night to catch sight of any wildfowl, with a bit of luck! Fortunately, Jacques get stuck in the sand (and for once we had a quiet moment!).

Gandafabou is a campsite in the middle of the sands. They were expecting us, but there was a misunderstanding; they had given us a 2 room apartment (lounge with table and arm chairs and rooms with mattresses of course, we prefer our vans, which we park under the only tree on the site. We won't even have a meal, because at the price, the dishes don't seem appetising. It is a very touristy place, a group arrives on camels and it's a stop-over for them. There's an outdoor cold shower, of course, which isn't at all bad, considering the temperature; but the tank hasn't been filled up and one will need to hurry to use it. Below the dune, a patch of green attracts attention - no doubt the edges of a dried up waddi? It's not far, but the terrain is unsuitable for the vans, and on foot, no time. We'll go there next time!

In the afternoon, the intrepid Michel and Daniel set off with the guide for Déou and its huge colourful market, interesting because of a number of jewellery traders …. women - Peuls, Touaregs and Ballas in traditional dress, with fabulous jewellery, friendly and smiling.

Very quiet night, set off for the Christine (well). When the track is too bumpy. Maggy and Michel take turns to swap places with Lucette since the guide always sits on the front passenger seat in the VW, it isn't easy to hang on in the back with an arm in a sling. Good example of solidarity, especially from Maggy who is never keen to leave her (faithful) companion! Another example of love: the Christine well owes its name to the wife of the man who dug the hole. In theory, there is a pump worked by a generator but it is out of order! So it's a classic well with a hand-pump, which is a meeting place of local nomads and their herds. Daniel uses it to fill the bath (I mean tanks). For a ghost like myself, it is a constant surprise to see the quantities of water used by our travellers! Fortunately since my 1925 visit, many wells have been dug. Up to now, no-one has run out of water, as they have managed to fill up every other day.

Journey continues, across a landscape with lots of shrubs. The latter become thicker after 1 hour's drive, and here we are on the banks of the Bélé, tributary of the Nile. The presence of thousands of goats, buffalos and camels (the children bathe amongst all that in the very muddy water) makes us fearful of flies. But no - they are too hot and our meal (frugal as usual) takes place quietly in the shade of a big cheese factory.

Return via Déou, meeting caravans returning from its market, Arabinda, surrounded by flat rocky hills, Gorgadji and Dori, where the guide leaves us (50000F cfa per day). On the road to Ouaga - the 24 - after 70 km is the separation. After some hesitation, Lucette decides to stay on, but to go no further.

To be continued…

Annual General Meeting 2003 - President's Report.

Sad year. So many members too soon disappeared. The wheel turns, etc. easy to say, but not so easy to be accepted by close family and friends!

Our Association is a big family, it must remain so. We must not lose sight of this if it so happens that we are tempted by a "super organisation", an exponential development which, personally, I admit I am incapable of following. Of course, improvisation has its limits and disadvantage, but a too-rigid organisation would be bound to put off the incorrigible individualists we all are. By your subscriptions you have proved your keenness to share with others the delights of travelling, sometimes at a cost requiring some effort. But we must never ask too much; it's a matter of balance. If the tasks discussed at the AGM, and prepared in masterly fashion by Paul Gouwy, are successful, if you agree to work (a little) we will not leave Doullens without a lightening of my load, to render us more effective, for the greater good of us all, and of my health!

Should we abandon the 'dossiers'.

Answer from Les Brook to a question posed before the AGM:

It is very important that the association gathers together and edits (for members) the information on the main questions which are vital to the needs of adventurous motor caravanners, e.g. gas, sea ferries etc.

The first step is to ensure that the bulletin includes information on these subjects in every edition. The article in B105 ('Carnet de Route - Bilan - Recit - Compte Rendu') is a first class beginning on the way to a more strict editorial policy. Who will deliver this?

The second step is to use new technology etc. and to publish the information on our two websites. It is cheap and easy to update these. Much easier than paper.

Financial Report. Period 12 months ending on 31.7.2003

Who'll reply?

Good evening. I'm a new member I haven't yet played an active part because I've been short of time the last few months. Next it will be pre-retirement. On page 2 of the last bulletin, I'm attracted by an offer of exchange with New Zealand.

Nevertheless I have a few reservations, because I own a demountable on a Toyota 4x4 and I think our Anglo-Saxon friends are used to space and luxury. My van is in good condition, elderly (20 years) but the vehicle is very good. Do you think I could reasonably offer to exchange? Can you advise me? Thanks in advance.

Eric Pollet

Trips planned.

Uzbekistan, Spring 2004, Armand and Christiane Pourfau.
New Zealand, January 2004, Michel Barbaudy.

Members going places.

Robert, Andree Riffont, Jean et Francoise Carre are leaving for two months (Sept. - Nov) in a rented 4x4 from Cape Town, travelling to Namibia, Botswana and Kalahari desert via Zambezi Falls.

Alaska - Notebook No 12 Friday 15 August 2003

Far away from the stifling heat which overwhelms all of you, we are continuing our journey in the cool of Alaska: temperatures between 10 and 20 deg guaranteed! We are enjoying rain, to our delight. As you will read in a few days time in our latest notebook entry, we have just reached Alaska, thus managing to link the two extremes of the American Continent. For us the adventure proceeds with a joy and enthusiasm which are not in the least diminished. As usual you are invited to read about us on www.family-dreamtime.fr.st and to write to us with your news about fantastic holidays.

Erwin, Laetitia, Ingrid and Eva Munch.

Postcards from…

D & D Meunier, Hraunfossar waterfalls, 22/07/03. A good stay in Iceland. After a week of sunshine, the rain has returned. The roads have been improved since our previous trip in 1990. Still beautiful countryside, animals still here where we are.

Monique and Marcel Keayaert, Nusfjord, 16/07/03. Now after 3 years of forced rest we have set out again. Norway with its grandiose natural resources fascinates us.

Maurice Vuillaume and Angele, Istanbul, 30/07/03. I am leading the life of a millionaire: all our problems are zeros! Even though I take great care, I do make mistakes, to my cost obviously, and that puts up the price by 10 fold where I thought I'd got a bargain. Always too trusting! Unbearable temperatures (30 - 35 deg) in this capital astride two continents and still just as wonderful. 5 weeks is too short, just time for a trip to Cappadoccia. I will return to the banks of the Mediterranean this winter. Message for those who love the Med; its fine everywhere.

Andre and Francine Helmbacher, Budapest, 1/08/03. Lovely city, exciting. The emperors, kings and aristocrats left their marks which the socialist regime did not stoop to maintain, but now they seem well on the way to restoration. We are leaving for Romania.

Jean and Michele Sommer, Ulan-Bator 27/07/03. The Trans-Siberian Railway took us over 5,600 km in 4 nights and 3 days from Moscow to Ulan-Ude, capital of Bouriate [?], 75 km east of Lake Baikal. The remarkable welcome from the people here makes one forget the monotony of forests and steppes.

Lilliane, Jean-Marie Lamande, Suzy, Alain Guillard, Albi, 21/08/03. ACCL vans on les routes du … Tarn! A bit cool on the hexagonal steppes.

Christian and Lucie Ruginis-Pannoux, Rezina, Moldavia 12 Aug. For 5 days now we have been going up and down on the bumpy roads of Moldavia; pleasant trip, warm welcome, we're doing some sociology. Pleasant weather (15 deg by night, 23 deg by day). Sometimes our van is taken to be a representative of peace; it's a Pilote Pacific; sometimes it's mistaken for a mobile shop; sometimes for the van of rich French gypsies (with lots of dollars!). Diesel at approx 2 francs, fresh meat, vodka and local champagne for sale in all the little markets. We are making for Chisnaukichinev, the capital. Return via Patras, 30th September.

About-turn to France.

A big thank you to friends who gave us garage space, lodging, food and water during our little summer tour - less adventurous than the one to Burkina Faso, but oh, how delightful!

In the region of the 'thousand lakes' (around Luxeuil) we have a memory of 'wild' and outstanding stopping places for vans. From Saut du Doub we recall that, on embarking, it was a bus which took care of us: the waters were too low for navigation on the river's meanders. Luckily, the lake was still stocked up, but no waterfall! Closed because of drought. The source of the Doub is a pleasant spot, but a bit too popular for our taste, and vans are not accepted except in the minute campsite with no shade at all.

Lovely crossing of the wooded massif, towards the valley of Lake Joux and Switzerland. At the col we found a dream pitch to stop - a clearing amongst fir trees. But we were unaware the spot was reserved as bedroom for hundreds of pretty cows which came up there every evening; a fine concert of cow-bells. A Swiss farmer told us this and advised us to go on a bit further, closing the gate behind us.

The Beaufortin and its cheeses: La Table (Savoie - still nicely turned out); super little road overhanging the Drac gorges, in the Dauphine, La Mure and its very nice insurance man, Valbonnais and its natural site on the bank of the river Bonne, accessible to all vehicles even though getting in is easier than getting out in (isn't it Roger?). Sillans and its campsite. Its owner has changed; pleasant welcome, better kept, but still full of statics. It was really hot there and I did get enough manpower to help clear my pitch! It worked out well; all that could be done, except for the traditional balade - and bathing (in the waterfalls) - was a siesta! We cut short our stay.

Entrecasteaux, its pizzas and its pistou. Vidauban, its superb private swimming pool and its grills. Saint Raphael and its broken clutch (it had been a long while since the VW hadn't had one of those!). Nice, the sea temperature 27 deg, and at last Saint Laurent du Var with its pleasing harbour and yachts. On the trip we met in order of appearance Bob and Ginette Perdriau, Pierre and Lucette Michel, Jacques and Daniele Payrin, Roger and Maggy Demontes, Gilbert Marie [the insurance man], Serge and Christiane Herviou, Robert and Josy Gastaud, Roland Liagne, Denis and Simone Lahaye, Monique Godard, Gerard and Gisele Mulaton, Daniel Maguin. I hope I haven't forgotten anyone!

Thanks again,
Jacques and Lucette

Alsace according to St Marcel

Sunday 8 June 6.50 am at the stretch of water of Schiltigheim, Kingdom of Lucien, our organiser. The 20 or so camping cars wake up in the cotton wool silence of morning mist. I have just walked round the water's edge (for my health). Lots of mischievous and harsh bird songs. But also alas lots of litter, paper, empty cans and tins which cover the ground, following last night's drinking (not ours!)

For last night, we were not alone! It was partying around camp-fires of wood and charcoal as white hot as the young women who offered their bare bodies to the heat and light of the flames . A friendly and convivial evening where the buzz of small bands gave off bewitching beats, attracting hundreds of fireflies. My 'hiking' mind enabled me to understand, without too much migraine, Lucien's explanations of how to get to the meeting place. L'Accueil [The Welcome] deserves to be in capitals. Banners, a pump delivering high quality beer at an excellent temperature, famous sausages, delicious mustard (from Alsace) and rustic bread made for an atmosphere of unanimity. In these conditions, reunions of 'bloody motorised hikers - and proud to be so' could not help but be warm hearted. Woken up about 5 am to the booming sound of a salsa to which scantily clad motorists were dancing, very close to our vans. Shower, tour of the lake accompanied by 3 twirling urchins - hilarious when they found the objects of their treasure-hunts little feminine briefs and other accessories, which were stashed with care in Intermarche plastic bags.

The day of the 8th was a day of BUTs:

In a line, behind Andre and Francine, we head off towards Betschdorf.

BUT what are they doing, where are they going? I follow because I am disciplined, but do not understand the route taken. At last here we are at Betschdorf to visit a pottery specially opened just for us.

BUT which pottery? The entire village is a series of potteries. So we turn, turn again, to stop finally on the car park of the local corner Inter. Great, I can fill up with fuel.

BUT Lucien arrives: ' You haven't time, they are expecting us'. So the column reforms to follow Lucien who doesn't seem sure of the way to go. The serpent of vans moves on through very nice countryside with villages decorated with geraniums. Cleebourg.

BUT too late! The owner receives us coldly and I put him in his place. We are ready to go elsewhere, but Lucien negotiates and we are allowed in to watch the promotional film and to sample three small glasses of wine which seem to come straight from the 'special reductions' shelf of hypermarkets. Fortunately, the ham shank with warm apples at the Chataigne restaurant, accompanied by a Pinot Blanc much superior to the previous drinks, cheers us up again .

BUT where is the dessert we anticipated? The rain-storm puts an end to our inside warmth and we set off again. But my fuel indicator on the dashboard is flashing and we pass and pass again an area we've already seen: a little girl, delighted by the endless flow of vehicles, claps us.

BUT a magisterial telling off by Lucien, at Schoenembourg on the Maginot Line! I parked on the spot I was told by a policeman. But that wasn't the spot planned by Lucien! I was on the point of leaving the group, but after explanations, our friend apologised.

BUT what can I say of the long traipsing at a trot through the tunnels, following the guide? When it was built, the fairy-tale era of electricity was at its height and French engineers were the best in the world, ie very advanced. Alas the fuses blow.

BUT we set off again, new drivers leading to a definite spot. Lucien decides to get to Philipsbourg for the night.

BUT it's impossible! With all the turning round, I have used up my last reserves of fuel. Andre and Francine come to my assistance and in single file we reach the stopping place for the night.

BUT fortunately, the spot is pleasant, the aperitif a success; sleep takes me; I toss and turn; good night.

The 9th - little trip along the river and leave for Bitche. The town surrounds the citadel, no short cut available to reach the site so it is later than I thought when I arrive at Zimmerhof, after 100 metres. I am in a short-sleeved shirt and sweating. Roger lends me his anorak to get on the train of the Maginot Line. Impregnable underwater line indeed, but useless; a flash from the past, of life, of uncertainty, of failures. After this trip of 33 metres underground we are happy to find the idyllic campsite. A lazy afternoon under the awning with the major event, the arrival of Jacques and Lucette, just in time for the evening 'briefing'.

A quiet evening, some chat and sound sleep until morning. Tuesday 10th. No Sirius in the sky, I am the first one to leave the camp to fill up with water and follow the planned itinerary. What's going on? The units follow Lucien, in the opposite direction! Not my problem: they have a guide. But my problem is easy to explain: road closed. What to do? I turn round again and take a second track: very nice forest drive, near Rechauffen. The villages are so pretty and I find the Soucht road and its clog museum, just in time for the tour of the works led by the craftsman, Rare. He became a clog maker not from vocation, but in order to marry the master craftsman's daughter. Jacques you must remember:

From Paris to Valence
I covered 100 leagues without work.
Just as I entered the town
I heard the craftsmen singing.

In fact, he wasn't a clog maker, but a workman using machines, which for a long time had copied and surpassed men in accuracy and speed. The little museum, as he spoke, came to life and its elegance was revealed. Here is the Little Stone and in the heat, four vans are preparing lunch.

The way to Savernes? What's going on? They turn round and I am face to face with Lucien. I turn into a sort of path - very grassy and I wait. Nothing, nothing at all, they have disappeared! OK I'll set off, go back.

I'm stuck! My right rear wheel has caught in a small ditch covered with grass. I am forced to go to the hotel restaurant, at the end of lane taken by Lucien, to ask for help. The owner gets out a 4x4 and a rope: at the first attempt the rope breaks, at the second, I press the accelerator and get free in a fine smell of burning clutch. All's well, nothing broken. After a nice beer with the owner, I set out for Saverne with no problems - no space at car park, so I go straight up the Haut Barr.

Super anniversary drink to the Bertrands, happiness.

Lesson to remember: before reversing, check the ground.

Wednesday 11th. What a lovely start to the day; a walk round the Haut Barr, birdsong and fresh smells all around us. Everyone's not up yet, except Eve, the Canadian who shares my love of an early morning walk. We have never set off together, but everyday we have met one another.

Birkenwald. Photo stop, bees and a huge croissant. In this part of Alsace the bakeries are attached to a café or restaurant and the men have their first beer with a croissant, reading Dernieres Nouvelles Alsaciennes (the local paper). Villages, still blazing with colour and with flowers, follow one after the other. Fountains supply spring water. A little stroll takes us to the Nideck waterfall. The clear water tumbles and meanders between rocks and forest. Like the water, history has flowed away, wiping from my memory the name of Struthof, but not the place associated with a sad episode of our history.

15.00 hours, Klipfef cellar at Barr. I am the first, but the others are following the owner says. In fact everyone meets up in the cellar, with its huge oak casks (they last 140 years!) and its 250,000 bottles of the 1921 vintage are the oldest there.

This time the wine tasting is performed with quality wines, notably a delicious Tokay Pinot Gris. Change of programme for the evening: no longer Obernai, but Mount Saint Odile. I'm the first to reach the site; P1, P2, or P3? Campervans not allowed. I continue for some kilometres, nothing, no one. At last a left hand track, a risky reverse, and I drive back: everyone is set up in P3. For this evening, did our number discourage the local authorities? They leave us in peace, but a few days later, our friend Vuillaume, on his own, will be turned off. Well, the union makes us strong!

Thursday 12th. Set off on my morning walk. My wandering is halted by the appearance of young girls in a seminary, and enjoying being there. Philosophical discussion on the good, the evil, the strikes, political struggles. Did you vote? Err, no. So…. We didn't think about it. I tell them I have always fulfilled my civic duty, to preserve those rights obtained by those who struggled to obtain this fundamental right.

We ask each other the same questions: where are we going? I almost replied: 'To Obernai for the sauerkraut', but I was afraid that my humour would not be understood by these fair young ladies. In fact we are in Obernai! The market welcomes us and I am amazed at the number of Islamic scarves that we encounter there.

The famous La Cloche restaurant has a quiet, shady terrace, so I see our team mates go by, but they don't see me. So I go inside, strangely empty when I knew it was full, and after a mushroom casserole I am ready to savour the house speciality. Ugh! The sauerkraut is very cold straight from the fridge. My anger (do you know Marcel's anger) rises and I demand a hot dish. They hurry slowly - half an hour goes by. Watch out! The plate is very hot. Sadly, the contents are shrivelled! Good-bye to my dream of a real sauerkraut. But, the crème brulee was excellent. Lucien had said: country market at Ville. So I set off for it. On the road, a watering place with a huge flow and an armada of gypsies around it. With travellers I know what to do, and the talk with the leader turns out to be very interesting . An old woman, with two young women, takes an inquisitive look inside my van which I had left open on purpose. I want to fill up - but I read 'Not drinking water'. The chief says 'Not for you, for us!. You see, cars and lorries come to fill their bottles and barrels. Have you seen them? They didn't want us but we're still here'. The old woman seems pleased with her visit but asks 'Where is your wife?'. 'No wife'. 'But I know you are kind'. 'Not always'. 'A wife would take better care of your house and be there at night'. I say good-bye and the chief shakes my hand. That's what travel is for me.

No carnival atmosphere in Ville, nothing. A beer, market at 17.00 hours, but not the expected concert: wrong date. Five traders get out their umbrellas. As there are now 5 vans, that is one trader for each vehicle! Realising the lack of interest here, we set off for Ribeauville. After some hesitation and when the daytime parkers leave, the vans strike camp in the main car park which is quiet and shady.

This evening, the caterers are Leon and Elisabeth Humm who offer us canapés and drinks brought from their home, only tens of kilometres away from Ribeauville.

Friday 13 June. Thinking that we had to be at Haut Koenigsbourg by 10.30. I set off early through the lovely streets of Ribeauville. I say ' Good morning' to the Canadian lady, who was also on her way. A quick look at the old part of town and I come back in the rain which sheds huge drops on the cobbles and geraniums. Haut Koenigsbourg. With the Peltiers I look for the others. They are all there, at the bank, having got here after us, but not at the right place. It's my fourth visit, and by far the most interesting because of the knowledge of the guide, who is very inventive. I don't know if what he says about the old saying is true or false, but the facts he tells us are lively and plausible.

Before leaving the castle, I go to the toilet, and when I come out, only Peter, Mary and Eve are still around. We make our way quickly to the car park, but Jacques is waiting and gives us the next meeting place, La Montagne des Singes [Mountain of Monkeys]. It's a superb place to park up, and we don't feel like moving, even for the eagles show which only attracts 20 of us. Personally, I know too well the one in Provins.

Saturday 14th. Meeting arranged at Hunawir, 9am, for the storks' nursery and the otters' pool, but I must have missed something, as once again I find myself alone there. Moreover it doesn't open till 10 am and the demonstrations aren't until 15.00! But I must arouse the curiosity of the birds which come to settle beside me. When a stork settles, you feel all its muscles; the landing is gentle but firm and what is most impressive, is the princely stillness which follows. Of course, I've run out of film! When the Centre opens I can watch the feeding of the baby storks and the care of the mothers. The otters are absent and the clear pool will only be used at 15.00 hours.

Our journey - very beautiful - goes via Turkheim, the Trois Epis, Orbey and Niedersh-Morshwir where I was supposed to find good wine (I'll tell you later) and I reach Schnepfenried too late for the aperitifs and briefing. Jacques gives me a private lesson.

Sunday 15th. Today's route should have pleased me and in fact it did so. I did it alone, with some worries about my starter, travelling in a group, hello damage. I let the drivers behind me overtake as soon as I could and they applauded: long live the 77!

What's going on? Something always happens, have you noticed? Bottleneck! Although the road is no longer through forests, here I am behind two horses who have escaped to freedom and frolicking. Firemen are blocking the road, but the horses ignore them. I use the time to find out about our next stopover. A wine grower in Soultzmatt? But there are 20! So I wait for the others, who arrive. How do they know where to go? No matter, here we are at Jean Boesch (keep the address safely), where we find a table well-set with sparkling wine. The carnival atmosphere is growing and as wines and sauerkraut (excellent this time ) are in abundance, we are all delighted. Songs, music, dancing, all set off spontaneously. At Markstein, I am again the first to arrive and pick out a spot with unrestricted views, and grass-covered ground. A German grumbles ' What's it to do with him?'.

Finally Jacques chooses the big car park since the weekend is over now. Aperitif with the left overs from lunch cut up for tapas. Disappointment when I open a bottle of pinot noir bought from the 'recommended' wine growers: yuk! plonk!

Monday 16th 12.30 pm. I am at Ried. Nobody there. Normally the meeting time is 13.00. This morning I followed the marvellous route drawn up by Lucien. St Amarin, Goldbach where I made a long stop as the starter is getting more and more awkward.

From Munster to the inn at Ried, difficult route with two tricky encounters, a 20cm gap and hoping the side of the road will hold, with a 4x4 and a tractor whose driver attacked me in Alsatian dialect for being on this road. I played the idiot and he replied 'der gaooner', meaning big rogue. He didn't return nor did I! There are only 16 of us for this meal planned for 27. I cannot judge the defectors (too many meals were planned afterwards) but I am sorry for the hostess who accepts things philosophically: 'Don't worry, there are the pigs!'.

It was good, plentiful, healthy and tasty - with wines worthy of it and coffee on the house.

Tuesday 17th. Parking at a healthy distance, next to the Illbourg inn. It is 21.00 hours, thunder rumbles, the downpours which flow are OK because of the great atmosphere of our evening. In fact, Marcel and Mauricette had made excellent preparations for the aperitifs and we were in the middle of them when Lucien arrived with his dishes: cold meats, salads, beers and decent wines.

This morning, set off for a car park near to the tram stop. This tram will drop us off in the centre of Strasbourg. Visit Petite France by waterway, a long and pleasant ride. On arrival Peter, who has had a bad leg for several days now, cannot walk. Jacques and Lucien take him to hospital for some tests. Eventually it is apparently only an insect bite (a wasp?) and he comes back at the end of the day, but cannot take part in sampling the famous 'backeofe' (meal with 3 meats) at the Illbourg inn.

Wednesday 18 June. Roll-call, but which? First Kronenbourg, famous for its beers, and we all leave together, 25 vans, madness, for an undetermined destination. Marcel Legeay who is in front of me, loses the thread. I wait for him and we end up in mist. We bravely and dangerously manoeuvre to join up with the group - but too late. They have disappeared! By little roads and more little roads and after a call from Jacques on the mobile, we eventually reach Kirrviller.

Where are they? A cyclist tells us they're at the Royal Palace. What is that? Everyone knows it's on telly, but that's a complete revelation to me! Formal dress, Jimmy tells us, so suit and tie at 40 deg, perfect! Here we are now at table, with guests already full and a bottle of Tokay well on the way: we help ourselves. The wine was not included and I had poured a glass from someone else's bottle! No matter, I order another which Marcel and I pay for.

Everyone dances, and so do we - but in front of our empty buffet. With bad grace (we are only ever 2 hours late) they nonetheless serve us a meal that wasn't truly gastronomic. No jug of water in this establishment of false gold, false luxury and rude and unpleasant staff. But.. Sommet d'Alsace, the Las Vegas of Alsace! Everyone leaves the dining room for the show and we find ourselves alone in front of a waiter who wants payment for the wine.

But where are the others? You've got time and we arrive in a hall packed with at least 1,000 people: never mind! Lighting worthy of top theatres, excellent sound, gorgeous topless girls . An evening worthy of the Lido or the Moulin Rouge with feathers, glitter and eroticism for boy scouts. Quality presentations and numbers, pity about the welcome.

To be continued, perhaps…

Namibia.

We did a three week tour of Namibia (March - April). Went from Paris CDG airport and changed plans at Johannesburg to land at Windhoek (the capital). We found the journey a bit on the long side, but the reward comes when you get there. We set off for a great trip.

We chose a private journey on our own in an air-conditioned hire car, staying either in simple but nice rest camps or in lodges - traditional or very smart - all situated in natural surroundings with wonderful views and facilities, swimming pools etc. Everywhere we had a warm welcome. You could equally well do this in a campervan - your own or hired (we met some), the roads are very good and driving is very easy (left-hand) because there are very few cars and lorries. The campsites are numerous and well situated (wild camping is possible and not dangerous).

We begin with a bit of royalty: the animal nature park of d'Etosha. We drove slowly over tracks and met herds of impalas, zebras, gnus, giraffes, oryx and springboks. In the silence of the bush, broken only occasionally by the chatter of birds in the morning or at sunset, we watch the animals coming to drink at the waterholes; elephants, rhinoceros, oryx, zebras, hyenas, jackals and even in one isolated place, lions (2 metres away from our car!)

We make a trip into Damaraland, a mountainous rocky and desert region which takes us to desert elephants, adapted to this harsh life. At Cape Cross, the surprising spectacle of the world's biggest colony of sea-lions which frolic on the rocks and in the sea. But a nauseating smell! At Walvis Bay we go to meet dolphins, pelicans, cormorants (4 hours in a speed boat). Sea lions boldly leap on to the boat for cuddles, photos and fish. One of them arrives at a bad moment and weighing 150 kilos she causes panic among the glasses of champagne and toast. The Valley of the Moon is well named. Nor far from there, in the Namib Desert, the oldest in the world, grow thousands of old plants. The welwitschia mirabillis. At Sossusviel, a walk in the ochre dunes, enchants us. We climb dune 45. And in the evening, a trip in a 4x4 to admire the sunset on the dunes and mountains. Track 707, through more than 200 km of dunes and mountains, takes us to Aus: a paradise of a place, to the Klein Aus Vista Lodge in the Namib Desert. In the evening a 4x4 takes us to wild desert horses who approach us fearlessly. A new stopover near Fish River Canyon. It gets hotter and hotter (35 deg in the shade). A burning wind blows from the north. We enjoy the pool and our afternoon's rest. The visit to Fish River Canyon (second [biggest?] in the world) disappointed us a bit. It is indeed an impressive place, but the grey rocks did not appeal to our eyes (perhaps the time of our visit was ill-chosen). A track through the arid and wild mountains of the south takes us to Ais-Ais (cold and hot water 65deg) springs which produce a small thermal oasis. We go back to Mariental and leave by 4x4 into the red rocks of the Kalahari desert. Lots of wild animals, springboks, gnus, ostriches. A magnificent sunset.

The high point of this journey was the stay at the home of a French landowner whose name we will not divulge, because to our great pleasure he allowed us to do something unusual and not very orthodox: in 2 very big parks, to meet a cheetah and 3 leopards gathered together, fed and cared for lovingly. Accustomed to the presence of man, but wild nevertheless. We were able to approach the cheetah after his meal, stroke him and hear him purring, just briefly, for the truce is short and when he lay down we had to go away quietly and quickly for our safety. An unforgettable memory. Moreover, long discussions with this man enabled us to know the country better. We really enjoyed this trip on our own, since we were free to follow our own way. The vital thing, however, is to get back to one's accommodation at night. We are sorry that we don't have any breakdowns or other hitches to report to Jacques and his companions!

We accomplished this visit in complete peace, and not because it was at all monotonous or easy, quite the opposite. We had the leisure to observe the country with no problems. We didn't need a guide. Before leaving we practised our English. It was essential in order to ask for any useful information and to converse with the people and tourists. For example one evening we sat at table with young and less young Germans and had a successful conversation in English, French and German which made us late for bed! Enriching contacts that we would not have achieved if we had been in an organised group.

If you like the sun, pure air, quiet, animals, mountains, deserts, emotions, go to Nambia. We discovered the essential bit of this land, and we still have areas to visit: for example the Himbas villages in the north west and the Buchman of the north east, as well as a few small private animal parks. We really do hope to be able to go back there.

Hubert Athenion

Tour Of Berlin, Poland, Belarus, Russia, Baltic States, Germany.

17 April - 14 June 2003

Germany.

Left on 17 April 2003. We leave Saint Raphael to reach Germany via Gap, stopping for a few times in France, then the motorway via Freiburg, Nuremburg, Leipzig and Berlin (17th - 20 April - 1519 km).

20 April, 253 km. We arrive in Potsdam, which is 15 km from Berlin. We stay at a car park at the entrance to Sans-Souci castle which we visit. Marvellous castle and park, plan for a 6 hour visit. A possibility of going to a campsite by a lake in the town, but we don't take it. Then we go to Berlin where we looked in vain for a service area. We were advised to park on the massive Olympic Stadium car park. This has the advantage of being on the edge of the city, but near the suburban line (S Bahn) and underground (U Bahn) stations.

We take the underground directly to Alexanderplatz. On leaving the station we see a huge glass tower with the sign 'Park Inn' on top. We go round this building to reach the Alexanderplatz avenue. We cross this to reach the bus stop of the 'City Circle Tour'. Double-decker bus, open-top to cover the tourist trip through Berlin, with a helmet with commentary in French. You can get off at any stop, 14 in all, and get the next bus (every 15 minutes). €18 per person. Set aside a whole day for this trip. (You can go to see the traces of the Berlin Wall. For that you get off at Potsdamplatz and go on foot to Niederkirchnerstrasse as the bus doesn't stop there).

22 April - 488 km. We leave Berlin heading for the Polish border at Ponellen. The motorway is in a disgraceful condition with gaps between the concrete blocks (max speed 50km/hour). In Poland, take the motorway to Gdansk, still poor quality road. For crossing the border, no problem, just show passports. Stop 60 km before Gdansk at a car park.

Poland.

A country interesting for its historic sites. Most of the landscape is flat. More picturesque to the north in Mazurie and in the south in the Tatras.

Poland seems to have undergone rapid change since it left the Soviet system, and seems to be ready to enter the EC. Prices are still below ours. We were pleasantly surprised, visitors will not be disappointed.

Local time is one hour ahead of French time. Exchange 1 Zloty - €0.25.

23 April - 178 km. We visit the naval docks at Gdynia where Solidarnosc [the Solidarity trade union] was set up, the old city of Gdansk (there are enclosed car parks with wardens for 4 Zl per hour), and Glowne Miasto the largest of the three historic quarters and the most rich in monuments. Houses of Flemish style with sculpted frontages. We visit the Town Hall which contains the town museums. There also one can find amber in the forms of jewels and artistic objects. In the afternoon pop up to the d'Oliwa quarter to see a cathedral, unusual with its two octagonal brick gothic towers. Inside, the organ is the jewel.

In the evening we travel a few km to visit Westerplatte, huge peninsula at the harbour entrance, where WW2 started. You mustn't miss a visit to this town.

24 April - 201 km. Head for Malbork famous for its castle, a remarkable medieval fortress with multiple ramparts, on the banks of the Nogat, a tributary of the Vistula. The huge scale of the construction is impressive. Cost of visit = 15.50 Zl per person. Supervised car park nearby 10 Zl for 4 hours. Set off in the afternoon towards Torun where we find a supervised car park alongside the Vistula, 40 Zl for 24 hours, since the town campsite only opens mid-May.

25 April. This car park is conveniently situated at the entrance to the old town. Our visit begins with the Regional Museum inside the Town Hall, the Copernicus Museum in his place of birth (small but interesting) then the cathedral of St John the Baptist and St John the Evangelist. We cannot go round the open air ethnographic museum because it doesn't open until 1st May. This town is well worth a visit and gives an opportunity for a short return to the past.

26 April - 175 km. Head for Poznan where we look for the Malta campsite by the lake of the same name. To find it take road number 2, then on reaching the lake head towards New Zoo and carry on until you see a sign for camping hotel Malta on the right. Well-equipped site. Price 38 ZL per day. To visit the town catch tram No 8, buy tickets at the kiosk near the station (6 stations to the centre). Get out at Plac Wieckopolski station. Afternoon, walk around the lake and free time.

27 April. We take the tram to visit the old town of Poznan, which is mostly situated round the Town Hall Square. Visit the History Museum in the Town Hall (5.5 Zl per person) and that of musical instruments, (7 Zl per person + 20 Zl for photography) on the main square which contains 100s of instruments from all countries - don't miss it. Lunch at restaurant on the square, hearty meal for 2 11,25 euros. = 45 Zl or 11.25 euros.

28 April - 421 km. Leave heading for Wroclaw, which we will visit on our return. Then the road to Krakow - we cross the Gilwice to go to Bielsko-Biala, arriving late evening. We go to campsite No 99 at Karbona - which accepted us for the night, though not officially open.

9 April - 53 km. Trip into the Tatra mountains where roads are particularly bad. Back in the evening to Bielsko-Biala where we go to campsite No 57 at Pocztowa, open all year round, in a pleasant setting.

30 April. Day to relax. Walk in the forest adjacent to the campsite (price 38 Zl per day).

1 May - 23 km. Head for Auschwitz and visit the concentration camp. We join up with a French group with a guide, cost 46 Zl, also includes visit to Birkenau camp. (No commentary about all the atrocities of the Nazi period). If only it had served as a lesson!

In the afternoon, road towards Krakow, passing through Wadowice, birthplace of Pope John Paul II. Visit to his house, now a museum.

We leave for Krakow. On entering the town we go to campsite No 171. Krakowanka, near to trams and buses. Price for camping 180 Zl for 4 nights.

2 May. Visit Krakow. We take tram No 19 near the site and get out at Basztowa station opposite the Barbacane, in front of St Florian Gate. Visit the old town, Poland's historical Czartoryski museum, the Maius College where Copernicus and John-Paul II studied, the oldest university building in Poland. We go back to the huge market square, the biggest medieval square in Poland, which attracts a lot of visitors because of its architectural importance.

3 May. We continue our visit to Krakow. Catch tram 22 and get out at the station immediately after crossing the Vistula, to go to Wawel, seat of kings from the dawn of the Polish state. We couldn't visit it that day, because of the crowds of visitors - 3 May is the Polish National Day - and so we get tickets for next day (price 54 zl for 2). Then we go to the Jewish quarter which is not very interesting for the tourist. We go back to the square in the old town and eat in a Hungarian restaurant (68 zl for 2). For the first time since we set out it starts to rain. We go and shelter in the Sheets Hall, in the middle of the square, vast commercial gallery offering traditional Polish crafts. We buy a few souvenirs. The rain stops, and we see our opportunity to join the queue and go to the twin towered Church of Notre Dame. The lower one (69m) is topped with a Renaissance cupola and has a belfry with 9 bells. The higher tower (81 m) is owned by the town and is used as a watch tower.

4 May. Morning - stay at the site. In the afternoon we go to Wawel to visit the castle symbolising national identity, comprising royal apartments, Crown Jewels and Armoury, then the St Stanislas Cathedral (bishop of Krakow canonised in 1253 and Patron Saint of Poland) witness to the coronations and funerals of most of the Polish kings. Then we left the Wawel enclosure by the Dragon cave (this dragon decimated the herds and also beautiful young girls, but was exterminated by the powerful Prince Krak) which leads to the banks of the Vistula.

5 May - 179 km. Leave for Wieliczka where we go to see the salt mine in use for 700 years. The tourist trip comprises 20 caves and 14 halls of the underground museum of mining, the most impressive of which is the chapel of the Fortunate Kinga (54 m long and 17 m wide and 12 m height) - all the walls are carved with scenes from the New Testament.

Set off in the afternoon towards Warsaw. Stop at Czestochowa at the campsite next to the monastery of Jasna Gora.

6 May - 214 km. Visit the monastery of Jasna Gora. The town of Czestochowa owes its fame to the miraculous icon of the Black Virgin, preserved in this monastery, which for centuries has attracted pilgrims from all over the world. We are privileged to be there on the day of the communion for children who arrive by the coach load. This place is well worth the detour.

At the end of the morning we set off for Warsaw where we easily find campsite 123 Astur, Bitury Warszawkiej Street, close to buses. Price for camping 58 zl per day.

7 May. Visit to Warsaw. We catch bus 517 to go to the town centre. We get off at General de Gaulle roundabout and go up the Royal Way (Noury Swiat and Krakowskie Przedmiescie) as far as the entrance to the old town. Visit the royal castle then the barbican, then we leave the fortified section to go to see the birthplace of Maria Sklodowska (Marie Curie) now a museum, at 16 Freta Street. The restoration of the old town and the castle is wonderful, the whole thing having been demolished in WW2. We eat at a restaurant on the town hall square, very pleasant! In the afternoon we visit the monument of the Warsaw Uprising. Impressive. It commemorates the uprising against the Germans on 1st August 1944 and is near the barbican corner of Bonifraterska Street. Then we catch the underground (one line 15 km long) to see the old summer palace, Larienki, of King Stanislaw August Poniatowski. A superb park with an amphitheatre and many buildings scattered about the greenery. To return to the town centre we get bus 108 near Agrykola Street as far as the Trzech Krzyzi Square, not far from General de Gaulle Square. Then we catch No 517 to go back to the campsite.

8 May. Continue our visit to Warsaw. In the morning we visit the Norik Synagogue just behind the Jewish Theatre, then follow the route commemorating the struggle and Jewish martyrs, 1940-43. It begins at the monument to the heroes of the ghetto and finishes at the wall of Unschlag square which was the departure point of those Jews who were deported.

In the afternoon visit to the castle of Wilanow 6 km south of Lazienki, catching bus 522 in the centre. This palace surrounded by a park was Summer residence of King Jan IV Sobieski.

9 May - 250 km. Head for Zamosc town considered to be the northern Padua. The huge town hall square is very typical, with its decorated houses and its arcades. Its fortifications have been restored now. The market and the high school - interesting. We spend the night out at the town's campsite, not signposted and difficult to find. Go to the Tourist Office for details.

10 May - 177 km. Head towards Terespol on the border between Poland and Belarus. This is the assembly point for the group visit to Belarus and Russia. We go via Chelm and take minor roads 812 and 816 which go beside the Ukrainian and Belarusian borders (shows how big Poland is). Spend the night in motel car park at the entrance to Terespol, with a group of 14 vans.

11 May. Rest day. We get to know the members of the group and finalise the plans for the organisation and smooth running of the journey.

Belarus.

Exchange €1 - 2200 B roubles.
Time 1 hour ahead of Poland.

12 May - 15 km. First we go to the Polish border where we have to fill in documents in Polish (but luckily we get hold of an english translation) and of course produce passports. Then the Belarusian border where we again show our passports. We fill in more or less similar documents but in Cyrillic script (we had got a German translation!). After much discussion with the customs man, we nevertheless manage to fill them in. The chassis and engine numbers are stated on the documents and verified. Then at a special window we pay the compulsory insurance to enter Belarus ($20 for insurance and $6 for repatriation). You have to go to each window with your partner for checking passport photos. A summary check of the inside of the vehicle, more due to curiosity on the part of the customs men, but actually not too many difficulties. However, the group leader had to show the letter of invitation from the travel agency. All this took about 4 hours. Our Belarusian companions arrived a few minutes later, to look after us as we left the border to go to Brest. We park our campervans on the supervised car park of a big hotel in Brest. As a sign of welcome an orthodox priest came to bless the vehicles. Why not?

A coach took us to visit the town, the Bereste (old name for the town) archaeological museum which includes remains from the 13th Century.

Brest is famous for the peace treaty signed by Germany and the young Soviet republic (3 March 1918) which lost Poland, the Baltic States, Finland, the Ukraine and part of Belarus. Dinner at the hotel restaurant with musical entertainment.

13 May - 340 km. Set off towards Minsk. A stop on the way to visit Mir Castle (only two historic castles remain in Belarus). Arrive at the hotel and campsite Perestroyka in the suburbs of Minsk. In the evening open air concert by a Belarusian folk group. We are eaten alive by mosquitoes! Dinner at the site's restaurant. To reach Minsk we paid either $3 or €3 twice on the motorway. You need the exact change, as they have none to give back, and do not accept roubles.

14 May. Visit to the town of Minsk. The town was 90% annihilated, and there are very few ancient monuments On one small island, we saw a very beautiful monument entitled ' Sad Women' commemorating 30,000 Belarusians killed in the war in Afghanistan. There are two metro lines covering 24 km. On our way back we went round the huge Minsk market where you can find all sorts of food at incomparable prices.

We went into a large pharmacy to buy something to ward off mosquitoes, but there are very few medicines available and we came out empty-handed. Fortunately we had better luck in a different shop.

Back to the campsite a trip in an amphibious rocket-powered vehicle, very exciting! Not for the faint-hearted.

Russia.

Exchange Rate: 1 euro = 34 Russian roubles.

Throughout our journey we will see villages made up of isbas or dachas. The isba is the main residence and the datcha a holiday home or second home.

15 May - 378 km. Set off towards Smolensk. Detour on a secondary road to see the site of the battle of Berezina, commemorated by 3 monuments to the memory of the soldiers killed there: the Russians, the Belarusians and the French. A victory or a defeat, according to the country. To rejoin our route we passed through villages composed of tiny wooden isbas, mostly lived in by old people and reflecting true poverty. (Most of the pensioners receive derisory incomes. Their children have to help them, or they have to work all their lives or go begging.

We reach the Russian frontier, where we fill in the same forms as at the Belarusian one, but printed only in Russian. We hand in these documents along with passports and grey cards. We pay 150 Russian Roubles or €4.5 for the obligatory vehicle insurance. (Note that you need to keep aside sufficient Belarusian Roubles to change at the border and cover this insurance). It took us 4 hours to get through. We went to the camping motel in Smolensk. Dinner at restaurant. A former state-owned hotel, sad and not maintained, but decent meal. Hawkers came to sell us folk objects, vodka and cigarettes and offered to exchange dollars for roubles at a good rate of exchange. We buy a good quality bottle of vodka for `$3 but take care, as evidently there is some vodka on sale which is adulterated.

16 May - 417 km. Visit to Smolensk. The cathedral of the Assumption, badly maintained outside, is richly decorated inside. From this cathedral sited on a hill, we have a very lovely view of the ancient fortifications of the old town. Then we leave for Moscow which we reach by motorway. Big rush hour as it is a Friday evening, but luckily not too important for us. Moscow is encircled by two huge 4 lane ring roads, or even five lane in certain places. The longer ring road is 90 km long. Not much traffic obvious to a group of 14 campervans. Parking on the car park of a big hotel in the centre of the city.

17 May. A coach takes us to visit the Kremlin, the central point of Moscow, perched on the Borovitskaia hill at the confluence of 2 rivers: the Moskowa and the Neglinnaia which fixed its position. The boundary is 2235 m long. It is flanked by 18 defensive towers.

Red Square is connected to the whole of the Kremlin, and has witnessed all important events in Russia. (In old Russian 'Red' means 'beautiful'). To the east it borders on the Kremlin, at the foot of which is the Lenin mausoleum to be west by Gum (huge luxury store: essentially great French designers and perfumers) and to the north by the History Museum. In the centre of Red Square is the amazing cathedral of St Basil - wonderful forms and colours.

Note that Kremlin means fortification. It served as a refuge against invasion. Inside the Kremlin, lots of monuments: arsenal, ancient senate, former Praesidium of the Supreme Soviet (Duma), the Congress House, the Cathedral of the Dormition , Ivan the Great's Bell Tower, a huge bell fallen after a fire, Archangel St Michael's Cathedral, the Glass Palace, the Great Palace of the Kremlin, the armoury and others I may have forgotten. The architecture of all this is very individual and colourful in style - peculiar to Russia. Then we get on the coach again to go see a panorama of the city from the Vorobinic mountains (newly married couples shatter bottles of champagne from this view point - a habit of the newly-rich according to our guide) passing through the sector of embassies, the Novodievitchi Monastery (previously also a place of imprisonment for women repudiated by the Czars), Victory Square with its obelisk topped by St Michael slaying the demon, at the foot of which is the huge esplanade leading to the Triumphal Arch. In the evening we take the metro to see the Kremlin lit up.

18 May. Visit to the most interesting metro stations with our guide. Truly a masterpiece of architecture, worth of palace interiors, with frescoes and statues, representing the history of the country during the Soviet era. The Moscow underground comprises 30 km of tracks, 175 stations and 11 lines.

Moscow has a population of 10 million, with 10 million more in the suburbs and extends 60 km in length which explains the importance of the metro. The River Moskowa flows for 80 km in its interior. Lenin Mausoleum, no cameras, camcorders or even bags allowed. You cannot stop or talk as you pass in front of Lenin's body. The state of conservation is incredible! The techniques used are secret and very time-consuming, it seems.

We keep our guide to go visit the Kolomenskoie Mansion, in the suburbs of Moscow on a bend of the Moscova. This former summer residence of the Czars contains a wooden architectural museum. Amongst the exhibits is a very modest rebuilt dacha of Peter the Great. The imposing feature here is the white church of the Ascension, celebrating the birth of Ivan the Terrible. Moscow is indeed extraordinary. All the monuments can be visited - even the Kremlin. As always the guided tours are too quick. To appreciate the architectural wealth of this city, we think it desirable to have at least 2 days longer. You could easily spend these days freely, given the variety and scope of public transport (metro, buses, trolleys and trains).

19 May - 213 km. Set off for the tour of the 'Golden Ring' an area bounded by the ancient cities of princes to the north east of Moscow between the Volga and Kliazma rivers. The Russians who settled there in the Middle Ages took advantage of its position on commercial waterways. From this era, only religious buildings remain. We make for Vladmir via the M7 and camp in a hotel car park.

20 May - 73 km. We take a coach to Vladmir. This town played a significant part in the formation of eastern Russia. We visit the Dormition Cathedral, still the home of nuns who manage and cultivate the land. Crossing over fields we visit the Church of the Intercession of the Virgin. Then we go to St Dimitri Cathedral, notable for its facades of carved white stone. The Golden Gate is the only major Russian military monument surviving since the 12th century.

Then towards Souzdal, camp in a hotel car park and have an excellent dinner in the vaulted hall - the restaurant of a monastery.

21 May - 180 km. Visit to Souzdal. The wooden architectural museum (superb wooden C18th church, windmill and several isbas. Then a visit to the cathedral of the Virgin Birth, and also the huge bishop's palace. After lunch go to Kostroma and park in a hotel car park.

22 May. Visit to Kostroma. In the morning, bus No 10 to the town centre to shop for food. Huge market - well patronised. Afternoon coach trip of the town: Trinity Cathedral (exceptional icons), St Ilpaty Monastery, still in use, then another wooden architectural museum, along the Volga. Boat trip on the Volga very pleasant in this sunny weather. Back to the vans.

23 May - 86 km. Set off for Jaroslavl, main trading port on the Volga is the C16th, birth place of Valentina Tereshkova, first woman in space. In the afternoon a visit to the town by coach: the monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour, the Church of the Prophet Elias, the Church of St John the Evangelist, domes and towards covered with magnificent earthenware tiles.

To be continued.