The Silk Route Motorcaravan Club.

Bulletin 90.

Translated by Christine O'Brien
Edited for publication by Les Brook

Happy New Year, Good Health.

These few words seem pathetic in the face of our impotence before disease, before the evils of all kinds afflicting our planet! To the list of natural disasters, foods, earthquakes, cyclones, etc, we should perhaps add …Man!

Are religious, political and economic fanaticism the result of human idiocy, or is it the other way round? Which came first, the chicken or the egg? Excuse the blasphemy, but if God created Man in His image, it is easier to understand why some people prefer to see things in a biased way!

Well! Despite it all, let us remain in a Zen state! What else do we have? Many small pleasures: a siesta uninterrupted by the phone, rediscovering friends you thought you'd lost, birdsong in the early morning, the smile of a young virgin (I know, that's a rarity and not always easy to recognise!), a glass of wine, a key that fits first time in the lock, the postman coming on time but without bringing you any bills, WC after two hours of looking, hands clenched on the lower belly...

So many things! So, in the absence of anything else, the committee, myself and Lucette wish everyone, members, relatives and friends of members, relatives and friends of friends and relatives of members, thousands upon thousands of small pleasures. One thing is sure, you will not be able to avoid them...

Jacques Mahaut
President and editor

JOIN NOW!

Please send your renewals and membership forms as soon as possible: 2002 membership cards will be attached to the 1 February edition, together with the current membership list.

But, no scruples! Don't continue your membership just to please me! If you think there is nothing we can do for you, that our bulletins are boring, then please just say goodbye, but do write and tell us so! We'll miss you, obviously, but it will make our job easier... Thank you.

The Arctic Circle 28 June - 18 July 2001

Preparations: Examine and renew engine (which means a month's delay!). Attempt to make links with other groups. No luck!

Documentation: Blay Foldex Europe and Michelin 985 (indispensable), Michelin Green Guide and Guide Routard (little used), Europe-Camping Guide and International Guide CCI 2001 (reassuring), leaflets from the Swedish, Norwegian and Danish Tourist Offices.

Formalities: Identity card, passport, recommended vaccinations, list of pharmaceutical products; insurer informed, driving licence, grey card, mobile phone company informed, check possible use abroad.

Cash, 8000 Francs to change as needed, bank and credit card company informed.

Provisions: Wait for Belgium to buy edible provisions, better and cheaper than in France.

Gas, propane: I'm hoping to manage with my already started 13kg bottle since I'll be alone and warmth is promised as far as the North of Europe.

Itinerary: Intimidated by the high mountains in Norway, I'd intended to travel up the east coast of Sweden. In fact, as I didn't leave Paris until 28 June, I took the shortest route to the Arctic Circle, crossing central Sweden from South to North, and once there the state of the roads encouraged me to return via Norway.

So this was my route: Paris, Reims, Bouillon (pleasant first night on a little area between canal and river), Liege, Munster (night in a large central parking place, in front of the former palace, now the university, a beautiful spot), Hamburg, Kolding (boring camping place), Malmö via the road bridge, Helsinborg (delightful bathing beach), Jonkopping, Lindesborg (fifth night), Luduika, Rättvik (very lovely, all kinds of shops, if it wasn't for the winters I'd like to live there), Sveg, Östersund (very comfortable camping site), Dorotea, Sorsele (night on the tiny peninsula in a lake, magical!) Jakkik.

Avoid Arjeplog by taking enchanting byways, Vuoggaljalme (cross the Arctic Circle 66°33 on the evening of 5 July (8th night - nonexistent - on the platform of a motel 3km further on, on the road to Norway).

When leaving this road (no 95 in Sweden and no 77 after the border) to join the E6, it's important to turn right towards Bodo for the only fuel stop in the region, which is very close, even if you're bound for Mo in Taha [Mo I Rana? ed], which is in the opposite direction. I confirm with my own eyes everything I've read about the scenery in Norway, much of it takes your breath away.

I cross the Arctic Circle again in Norway on the magnificent high plateau that crosses the road (30° on the afternoon of 6 July). Warning, the large shop at the Poleirkelen restaurant turned out to be boringly commercial, apart from being able to get your photograph taken on a special pedestal and buy decorated erasers and little match boxes for everyone!

19 km further south, just before the first village, there is a kind of large farm (Elvmothei) where motorcaravanners can park under the trees, separately, and where every individual site has its own power supply, sauna hut (hot water+toilet+shower) and street lamp (unnecessary at this time of year when the sun shines 24 hours a day). One loses all sense of time.

Return via Grog, Namsos, Trondheim (refill the gas bottle for 348 Kroner, 290 Francs, at the AGA factory) and spend the night beside the cathedral garden. After Roros (an overrated tourist spot, though the cemetery is worth a detour) the weather turns to rain and the further south I travel the colder it gets!

Elverum, Oslo (a traffic nightmare! I had to wait till the evening to get around easily, the harbour with old boats is a sight worth seeing), Skjeberg, Tanun (perfectly controlled mass tourism: in the museum restaurant I had one of the best meals for quality and value of the whole trip)), Gothenburg, ferry to Frederikshavn (1500 Kroner, 1081 Francs). We are back in darkness at night during which I made the crossing.

Return along the west coast of Denmark, with a frolic on the isle of Roms (the little white flowers covering the meadows are thousands of sheep in the saltmarshes!)

Hamburg, at night in the town centre, under trees opposite the central station. It is noisy, but secure, and practical for changing money as soon as the offices open, breakfast in the wonderful park of a fashionable district, alongside a big lake (it was just as well I didn't stay the night: it is like the Bois de Boulogne!).

Crossed Germany avoiding the motorways via Hienburg, Minden, Lippstadt, Meschede, Olpe, Altenkirche, then Luxembourg and Thionville, my final destination. In the end the mountain roads in Germany seemed rougher than those in Norway.

Conclusion: a journey that was too quick, spell-binding, an experimental basis for a more demanding expedition next summer. I was going to say my goodbyes to Europe by visiting these extraordinary Nordic countries, I have returned overwhelmed by them. Despite the sumptuous beauty of the fjords, my preference remains with the flat lands, Sweden, Denmark and, above all, Lapland. In these regions, one sails even on the earth and the people seem more gentle?

Absolute respect for road signs: a reduction in speed matched with the symbol 'reindeer', or 'horned animal' announces a place where there are real animals, and if the road is in shadow one is sure to meet them on the coolest side. The inconvenient thing about stopping to take photos is that the animals then wander across the road. I was terrified one day by a Norwegian roadhog, as much for the sheep as for myself!

My family, worried about my strange insistence on driving thousands of kilometres on my own, kept telephoning me (I became expert at getting rapidly out of the traffic). However experience shows that an elderly, discreet, disciplined and polite woman on her own can travel absolutely anywhere without any problems.

On the rare occasions when there was anyone manning the international borders, all they gave me was a friendly smile. Throughout the trip I saw very little of the police and they seemed to me to be kindly everywhere. On 14 July, in Germany a policeman in Erwitt, unable to make himself understood in English, escorted me all the way to the campsite at Nieder-Bergheim. In Scandinavia almost everybody speaks English. Only in Norway did I once or twice come across people who gestured that they didn't understand, before expressing themselves in perfect English! What were they worried about?

If members would like any additional information, please feel free to get in touch. The same applies to anyone who is curious about my Arctic expedition.

Marie Daban-Demenkoff

Sometimes I no longer feel alone!

You have to be positive, sometimes!

Thank you to everyone who helped me during the AGM and the balade: René Notteau for organising the AGM and the proceedings at the Bergerie Nationale, our video-cineastes Dumoulin, Baudouin, Gastaud, etc, for the superb images, Jean-Francois Notteau for the projection and sound, Josy Gastaud for the sale of special products, Serge Herviou who kept the accounts for all the visits and made a general summary, everybody who helped to clean the rooms after our feasts, Georges Martin of Chantilly who, through his wife, allowed us the use of a superb room for the 'Beaujolais nouveau' evening.

Apologies to anyone I have forgotten... and thank you for the invitations and the gifts... It was like Christmas!

JM

With Some Ifs

My exercise in self-flagellation in the last bulletin was intended to fulfil two purposes:

• To show that it is not practically possible for a single person to organise a balade. We have to form a group, even if it only consists of two, as has almost always been the case in the past.
• To try and draw up a list of everything that has to be done - or not done - to ensure that the end result is as good as possible.

Obviously this list is not exhaustive... For example, it is worth remembering that the very short stages (agreed because of the shortness of the days and the traffic in the Paris area, which is always very heavy during rush hours) resulted in poor recharging of batteries, which led to difficulties with heating that were aggravated by the temperature!

All that's left to say is IF it were to be done again, I would naturally do it... There were no accidents, no serious breakdowns... There were no grumbles (or, if there were, they were discreet), in fact reactions were rather complimentary, and as well as coming away with colds, sore throats, bronchitis, etc. we all had some good memories to take home.

At least I hope we did!

JM

Still in the USA

San Diego, in the extreme south-west of California, with its white houses and Hispanic architecture, is a reminder that it is only just a century since the region was Mexican. As far as we are concerned, the most marvellous sight is the bay where the sailors are enjoying themselves. In the north-west of the city is Sea Salton, an inland sea created in 1905 in a former dried out lake, during a huge surge in the Colorado River.

Having crossed the Joseph Tree National Park (very beautiful yuccas) in the Mojave Desert, we reached Las Vegas, capital of Nevada and of gamblers who can slake their thirst in countless gaming halls. For those in love it is the capital of happiness: no less than 40 or so churches and chapels are there to welcome them and celebrate their union, for life. And for the chilly, it is the capital of heat. Las Vegas is in the hottest desert in the USA and at the time of our visit, at the end of August, we endured 46° by day, when the town slept, and 38 at night, when it woke up.

For those who aren't attracted by gambling, the spectacle is in the streets, with a whole firework display of multicoloured and animated illuminated signs, groups of musicians, actors and acrobats who appear in front of every establishment and entertain your eyes and your ears.

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado, in the state of Colorado, is certainly the highpoint of our journey. The river, which is 2300km long, has hollowed out this marvel from the Rocky Mountains over thousands of years, with a combination of wild waters, the winds and erosion. By looking at the different coloured rocks one above the other that rise to a height of 1500m from the banks of the river to the cliff edge, you can get an idea of the formation of the earth's surface. In order to visit it, you have to go to Grand Canyon village and take the transport laid on for tourists (the site is prohibited to private cars). This allows you to get off at nine different spots, from which there are paths, and a few hundred metres walk away you will find observation points. The changing shadows and sunlight, which vary at different times of the day, make the sight even more spectacular. There are also plane and helicopter trips, of course, but at a price! Athletic visitors can walk down one of the paths that lead to the riverside, or go by mule.

Monument Valley is in the middle of the Navajo Native American Reserve, straddling Arizona and Utah. It is a huge desert plain with an impressive number of monoliths in every shape and colour springing up here and there. Many great Westerns have been filmed in this area and have added to its reputation.

The two national parks after this are Canyonland and Arch Park. Hundreds of millions of years of rain, wind, frost and thaw have moulded this vast natural construction site. The architecture is extraordinary - immense blocks of stone with arch-shaped holes bored through them, some as much as 6m tall.

Crossing the Rocky Mountains from east to west in Colorado brought us to a 3200m-high pass between fairytale snowy peaks up to 4000m. We got there just at the right time. Two days after we went through there was serious snowfall and the pass was closed.

Texas, a vast plain, maximum temperature 36°, herds of petrol pumps and pipe lines. Not much of interest except San Antonio in the south and, more especially, the Alamo, site of the mission transformed into a fort in 1836 where 189 Texans died in the siege by Mexican forces. It is a much photographed monument.

Houston, the state capital, is also the second most important space centre in the USA but, because of events, it wasn't possible to visit the centre.

Louisiana, a state dear to the French. Don't let us forget that if it wasn't for blessed Napoleon, it might have been one of our colonies! The dollar was already much appreciated! Lafayette, capital of Cajun country is for the most part populated by descendants of Acadian families. They grow rice and sugar cane, still speak old French and preserve their folklore. In Eunice, near Lafayette, we went to a concert of local music with French songs. In the north, we visited several former cotton plantations.

At the end of the summer season, New Orleans, capital of jazz and new country music, didn't appear very lively, except in the Old Quarter where the Cajuns come to trade their vegetables in the market every morning and transact their business in French. Not many concerts, you have to wait the approach of the festival season in a few months before there is much activity.

Jacky Baronio

Chateau Life in the Ile-de-France (poetic version!)

Once upon a time, in autumn-winter, there was a 'wanderer'. He wanted to live 'the chateau life in the Ile-de-France'.

But before his thoughts, his personal dreams, his experiences, I should say bravos (in the plural), first to the Lovely Organisers, then to everyone for their discipline, or -dare I say it? - autodiscipline (not bad for motorcaravanners!). That quality benefitted everyone during the meeting, on the road and in the stopping places of this wintry journey.

But I am becoming Me, the Solitary Man, the man of the Parisian slums where I was born. I started as a cyclist, then became a cycling-camper, leaving the city for those places that are haunted at the end of every week, whether it rains or the wind blows, by young people on foot or on bicycles. So I am making a pilgrimage. Of course it is nostalgic. How can I forget our camping fires in the church, fires which lit up the stones of the abbey of Cernay, and the songs which echoed round the building in the night?

Now BMWs and Mercedes use it, taking customers towards the prestigious establishments of this complex, and deep down I am happy about it, because the expensive restaurants were beyond the dreams of penniless people like us.

The chateau of Monte-Christo! You know, this architectural cake which had me trembling at its bad taste but which stood in surroundings of extraordinary charm, which was drowned under the sign of Europe and is now a clinic (alas for the symbol!) deafened by the thundering A13.

Until now I had never wanted to pay to visit this Sacrilege but thanks to the group and the weather I did so. A woman in love (what could be more extraordinary?), passionate, and the miracle danced and twirled. The empty spaces were overflowing with lives, with presence: the narrowness pierced walls and windows. Our Dumas must have been resting easy!

As my journey is following no particular order, but rather the 'chateau life', I must tell you about one of the important moments in my life. In order to be modern, the chateau de Breteuil exhibits a number of waxwork scenes, clichés of chateau life. One of these represents the dining-room of the domestic servants. Do you remember? Near the kitchen? Valets, chambermaids, nurses, butler, kitchen boys. What a shock for me! How many gastronomic meals have I had in a similar room, in the same region at the chateau de Dampierre! At that time, this chateau belonged to the Duc de Luynes, and one of my cousins was the butler. This person, important in all great houses, was pampered by the cooks (there was no chef then) and the best food came to him, by custom, and to his little cousin who had just cycled 100-200 kilometres to be there!

Very disappointed not to encounter more familiar smiles (though there were ten or so) while going along the loveliest view in the capital, the terrace of Saint-Germain. Then, the next day I walk twice to and fro along this approach to Paris. The extended shadow of the chateau will protect you from its majesty.

The river craft is 'queen' at Conflans. It slides through the fog and cold of the morning. Calm, insubstantial, it flows powerfully and discreetly, but…

Another personal memory: I'm 15, a family of boatmen welcomes me into their Belle with the sparkling eyes. For a few days this was my tent, and the spotless interior comes back to me in the sweet dreamy cradle of the rippling water.

Another dream, the chateau of Auvers. There, the memories jostle with each other, but, even better, there are recollections of 'the time of the Impressionists'! For me that means the Salon des Independents, the hall where the works of those rejected by the jury were originally hung and where I exhibited in 2000; but also that great rejected and unappreciated figure, Napoleon III. An inspired author and an editor excited by the times he lived in and by his contemporaries, in Paris and in Suez, by the industrial shift from wood to iron, by the Christian isolation from the Muslim world. This was also a time of artists who didn't come from the mainstream academic world, but whose works have been taken up by later generations who make a fortune out of them. Thumbing their noses at the commercial ethos, the Impressionists are and remain the key to the present-day. They may have been middle-class revolutionaries, but their revolution has lasted.

I think of Damascus. At Auvers, seeing again the scrolls, those water-lilies which surround us and trace the route from Damascus to the rose of Provins and to the pastel shades of woman in all her power.

This journey had to be leading to a miracle: Chantilly!

Despite the biting cold, to see those horses looking so beautiful, so majestic as they passed just by our feet frozen in the morning mist, against the green and russet of autumn, what warmth! Their nostrils steamed, their coats add a womanly charm, the narrow straps seem to disturb the balance. They go to the stable, held in strict gait by their riders. Sometimes a trot, a gallop for a few seconds, and the cold returns.

The charm of the outdoors adds a rainbow to all the photos of Chantilly, its chateau, its great stables. But there is more! Much more! The surprise of the chateau is its picture hall, so many internationally known works that I believed to be copies! It seems that all these are originals. It is unbelievable! The whole world should be rushing to Chantilly, it is a treasure of mankind, but exhibited without any fanfare or verbal puff!

The cold, the winter sky. White spots of airplanes (merinos, perhaps?) make for the South, the West and the North via the East, to all our lovely regions, not to mention those which cross the Channel or fly to Canada.

There were just a handful of us, a few motor-caravans, 11 people, who enjoyed these glories - and that word is no exaggeration! All of you, come back to the 'Musée vivant du Cheval' (Living Museum of the Horse). Through it the Grand Stables have been preserved. I shall not describe it to you.

The dream is worth it. Come back!

For us, the 11, none will forget the dressage session and the charm of the two horsewomen who, without knowing it, left in our eyes that spell which is so Ile-de-France, the spell of our chateaux, their ghosts and their presence.

Marcel Lecorre

Preparations for London/Paris-Bejing etc.

On 10 November, after being present at the AGM of the Silk Route Motorcaravan Club and carefully watching the film about the journey in year 2000, the would-be participants in the 2002 journey came together at the end of the afternoon.

Present were: Clive and Ann Barker, Andre and Ginette Bertrand, Les and Margaret Brook, Armand Brout, Jean-Claude and Sylvette Chesneau, Jacques Clerissi, Roger and Claire Cortade, Carl and Mary Hunter, Maureen Middleton, Les and Lena Mitchell, Len and Norma Moore, Colin and Van Parris, Stephen Stewart, Patricia Warburton.

Despite the international situation, we decided to proceed with all the arrangements for a journey to China in 2002.

There are four English and 4 French teams interested: Mr and Mrs Barker, Mr and Mrs Brook, Mrs Middleton, Mr Stewart and Mrs Warburton; and M and Mme Bertrand, M and Mme Chesneau, M and Mme Clerissi, M and Mme Cortade. The Hunters and the Moores may possibly join the group.

At this point there was an announcement that drinks were being served to everybody, so we agreed to resume our discussions the next day. [Note correct priorities - ed]

On 11 November, we held a meeting with all the interested persons, thanks to the efficient and friendly help of Colette Hancard who acted as French-English interpreter.

Mr Yao of China Comfort Travel, France, made a speech. He has organised several trips, in 1996 for M. Valentin, in 1997 for M. Barbaudy, and at other times for Messrs Aubry, Denis, Fusil and Gastaud, but he was unable to do anything in 2000 because he had changed his job and was setting up his agency in France.

We asked that motorway tolls and the costs of parking and camping be included in the given price, or that we at least be given an idea of what we'd have to pay. Mr Yao said that this was difficult but that he might be able to help us when the itinerary had been decided.

Mr Brook asked which agency he would be working with in China: China Swan International Tours, specialists in off-road travel. In 1994 they organised a 4000 kilometre trip in the desert with 6 camels bought by the travellers, 2 camel drivers and an English-speaking guide, and the owner resold the 2 camels remaining in Kashgar.

The contract will be drawn up in Paris in French but translated into English. Mr Yao saw the person responsible in China in September and will be in permanent contact with the guides.

We emphasised the need for both a French-speaking and an English-speaking Chinese guide.

We asked precisely what the duty of the guide would be. We will be looked after by a guide who comes from the Public Security Forces and from the Army of the Defence Ministry - and not from the Agency - from the time we arrive at the Chinese border until we leave.

During police checks, the guide deals with the paperwork and the Chinese Agency, which arrives 24 hours before we cross the border, is solely responsible. The guides will also act as interpreters for guided tours of any sites we visit.

Board and lodging for the guides is included in the price per vehicle, but we will be responsible for their transport during the journey. Maureen Middleton offered to do this for one of the guides, possibly the English-speaker. To be considered, as it is clear that another motorcaravan will be needed for the second guide.

If we are delayed by reasons beyond our control, e.g. by an impassable road meaning that we have to detour, as long as the delay is no longer than 8 days with a possibility of prolonging to 97 days, there will be nothing more to pay. If it is impossible to leave on the arranged date, tell Mr Yao by telephoning him immediately.

In case of breakdown: we had no response about this.

In case of accident: legalities controlled by police who will decide the cost of the damage.

Insurance: not unless he finds one in the meanwhile.

Repatriation for reasons of health and annulment of agreement by Mondiale Assistance if a contract is signed 90 days before entry into China: work on the basis of 3% per vehicle (Mr Yao has to find out, as this clause is not included in the estimated price).

Altitude: the possibility of hiring bottled oxygen.

After Mr Yao left, given how late it was Mr Brook suggested that discussions on other subjects be brief.

Briefly:

1. Negotiators: Andre Bertrand for prices, Clive Barker for contracts. [This is incorrect- ed]
2. In China: we designate a leading vehicle to head the convoy with the guide, the leader to be changed daily or weekly because it is more fair if we take turns to carry him.
3. Average daily distance to be covered: 170km. We'll have further discussions about whether it is possible to make the distance shorter.
4. We should find 2 or 3 other options for the itinerary if the international situation doesn't improve.
5. Negotiate contracts with the 2 agencies and ask them to include more costs in their price: motorway tolls, costs of parking and camping
6. The possibility of making a trip lasting more than 90 days: difficult for the French, given the insurance situation.
7. CBs to be installed, indispensable for contact between vehicles. Response given to Mr Barker by M. Cortade.

The meeting rose in order to enjoy a delicious lunch with all those who participated in the General Assembly.

On 12 November, it was agreed that Les Brook, who had his computer, would request that the 2 agencies make a final offer for 8 vehicles, asking them to reduce the price to 33,000 Francs per vehicle including the costs of tolls, parking and camping, as a basis for discussion, and asking that they reply by 30 November so that a decision could be taken on 15 December.

We have just received a draft agreement from China Iron and Steel, the company that organised the 2000 trip. We'll study their terms and conditions and keep you in touch about the next step as soon as possible. It may be that we go to a third Chinese agency, but that will have to be done quickly.

Practical Information INSURANCE

Flexia Contract. All risks insurance for vehicles outside the green card area, provided that the stay lasts no longer than 89 days. Unlimited personal assistance during the stay.

Plein Phare Contract (which is taking over from Flexia)

1. Contracts signed before 1 June 2001: All risks insurance for vehicles outside the green card area, provided that the stay lasts no longer than 89 days. Personal assistance limited to 3 months for all countries crossed outside the green card area.
2. Contracts signed after 1 June 2001. All risks insurance limited to three months for all countries crossed outside the green card area. Personal assistance limited to 3 months for all countries crossed outside the green card area.

NB If you change your motorcaravan, the current contract is void and you'll be covered by the Plein Phare contract signed after 1 June 2001.

As far as foreign members are concerned, Monsieur Gilbert Marie specified that they could get insured in France, provided they could prove residence in our country...

Jean-Claude Griffoin

GAS in the USA

The first thing you need to know is that the shipper will require any propane bottles in your motorcaravan to be empty. This will mean that as soon as you arrive in North America you will have to go to a service station to get them filled. And for that you will need an adapter so that the propane pipe can be screwed onto the French bottle. This adapter can be obtained in France at every shop selling gas accessories. Just ask for an adapter that can be used by English caravanners to plug their propane equipment into French bottles. It costs from 100 Francs. In the USA propane is sold in gallons (1 US gallon =3.81), and you'll need 7 gallons to fill a bottle.

Jacky Baronio

GAS in CANADA

In Canada propane is sold by weight, i.e. in Canadian pounds. Our bottles contain 29 pounds of propane, and a full bottle will weigh a total of 60 pounds. Although our bottles do not have a safety valve, as is required in Canada, we had no difficulty in filling our bottles, though the bottles must not be more than ten years old. If you don't want to transport empty bottles you can obtain them in situ. The adapter which will enable you to connect the propane equipment in your motorcaravan to North American bottles is sold by Narbonne Accessoires as part no 330027.

Jacky Baronio

Australia and New Zealand

For his planned trip to Australia (15 July to 15 November) and to New Zealand (until December 2002), J-C Griffoin has compiled a dossier which includes the following:

• Embassies
• Administrative documents
• Study of the Australian climate
• Estimate for long-term hire of a motorcaravan from both a French agency and an Australian rental company
• Estimate for transporting his own vehicle
• Insurance of vehicles
• Itinerary

Jean-Claude and Yvette are not planning to travel in a group, but will be glad to share their documentation with you (including preferential tariffs for renting in situ). Send a cheque for 5 Euros. If any other travellers are planning on the same destination at the same time, it might be possible to meet...

NB! If the dates on your carnet de passage are not in the Latin alphabet (e.g., if the carnet is in Arabic or Russian characters), translate them yourselves and get your translation signed by the local authorities, or when you return ask for a certificate of your presence (from customs, police, town hall)...

André Helmbacher

The Silk Route fortnight that was being organised at Rambouillet was the reason why we held our 2001 AGM so late and in that particular place.

It has been carried forward to next year, and even if we cannot take part in person, the organisers need our documents. Some of you have already sent photos (don't worry, they will be returned to you, with their enlargements), but more are needed. So if you have some souvenirs of your own Silk Route (from Turkey to Xian, or beyond), please send them to René Notteau, with a caption and your name on the back.

JOURNEYS BEING PLANNED

WEST AFRICA: Pierre and Lucette Michel, Mauritania, Senegal, departing 15 February - Régis Hagnere - Gérard Gervaise

SOUTH AMERICA: Guy Lebourgeois - Hélène Berranger (2003)

AUSTRIA: André Berenguer

CANADA (ALASKA): Robert Gastaud - Robert Jacquard - Bernard Cousin - Hélène Berranger (2002)

CANADA, USA, MEXICO: Charles and Colette Brisson. Departing August 2002. Travelling for one year, to give themselves time to follow up any opportunities that arise in whatever area, sport, culture, personal relationships, or to get the best from an exceptional location without worrying about time. A pleasure trip for which they'd be happy to have travelling companions... Security, mutual help...

AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND: J-C Griffoin (see advertisement above) - Marcel Lecorre - Jean Abry - Robert Jacquard - Gérard Desfaucheux - Robert Gastaud - Georges Turpault

BURMA (Myanmar): Robert Million

NORTH CAPE, NORWAY: Paul Boby - Régis Hagnere

CHINA: André Bertrand, Roger Cortade, Les Brook, Clive Barker, etc. - Paul Boby - Jean-Claude Chesneau

EGYPT: Robert Million

SPAIN, PORTUGAL: Metzger - Bertrand Harel - Robert Million (Easter)

GREECE: Jean-Claude Milleret - Denis Durand

IRAN: Paul Gouwy - Denis Durand - Bernard Cousin

IRAN, PAKISTAN: André Helmbacher

ITALY, SICILY: Jean-Claude Milleret

JORDAN, SYRIA: Alain Massol

MOROCCO: André Helmbacher - Roger Demontes, etc

CZECH REPUBLIC: André Berenguer (May 2002)

TUNISIA, EGYPT: Jean-Claude Milleret

NB. These planned journeys are indications only so that contact can be made; they do not constitute a commitment... In some cases they will depend on the political situation, and if the same person has given several destinations this is usually because he or she is prepared to choose a particular destination if companions can be found.

This list is not exhaustive: only a hundred or so of you have so far returned your membership forms and the questionnaire.

THE PLUS POINTS OF THE ASSOCIATION

The Secure Points of Support or PAS

As you don't all have the complete list, we need to make some revisions! These are people, friends of friends, relatives of relatives, relatives of friends throughout the world who can give you advice and help or simply greet you during your journey through... Obviously the list is only given to people who ask for it; we can't go throwing names and addresses around so that somebody's cousin becomes prey to spongers.

Free Areas

These are private grounds, or grounds belonging to friendly organisations, which you can use while crossing the region in question... Their position is given in the general summary. If you have any kind of land which could be used by our motorcaravans, please let us know what it is like and how to get there. Naturally, whoever parks there will do so according to your terms, and you will be informed in advance of anyone who wishes to stay there for a short time.

THE AGM AND THE BALADE IN NUMBERS

The total budget is approaching 75,000 Francs!

The AGM has cost us 51,103 Francs, 20,000 of which is at the Club's expense (we had calculated the cost without allowing for any contingencies, but when you're in love you don't count very well!).

There were 157 meals served on Sunday lunchtime.

The Balade expenses, when balanced, came to 23,850 Francs. So the 66 people who took part, either entirely or partly, spent an average of 353 Francs each... The best students, who saw everything, spent around 600 Francs (including 145 for the meal at Chantilly)... You must admit that this is not expensive! See you at the next one...

If we also included the purchases made in the various museum shops in the total, we'd undoubtedly top 100,000 Francs.

MALAYSIA AND THAILAND

By Michel Barbaudy

Hanoi, 23 November 2001

I didn't say everything in my postcard (see Bulletin 89)... The reason why I was prevented from leaving Singapore for a while was that, as I passed across the border, my van touched a surveillance camera! So we were made to take the same lane as the lorries, but we had to wait 90 minutes in order for the police to confirm that no damage had been done to the camera...

On the Malaysian side, customs and police were fast. No problem, and what's more, smiles from the staff. It is dark, we are going to spend the night in a motorway carpark. From 30 November to 2 October [translator's note: this is what the French says, but should probably be 30 September?] cross Malaysia, via Malaca, Serebam, Kampong dangkil, Bidor, Goreng, Spoh Tuiping, Alor Setar, Buket Kayu Hitam, on the toll road, very reasonable price. Everywhere extremely friendly Malays, ready with smiles and with offers of help. Lovely sites, lovely landscape.

Already we are 1000km from Singapore, crossing the Malay-Thai border at Sidao on Friday afternoon. Friendly staff on both sides, no difficulty.

From 3 to 15 November, cross Thailand: Hat Yai, route 4, Phat-thalieng, route 401, 403, Nablim si Thammarak, route 401, Surat Thani. At Hat Yai we attended a buffalo fight. They happen only once a year and give rise to a lot of gambling for high stakes. No killing, no blood, the fight is over when one of the two buffalos abandons the struggle. On this journey the road is bordered by rice fields and forests of small shrubs with the mountain in the distance. All the roadsigns are in the Thai alphabet, which we can't read. The exceptions are those signs giving general directions on the roads, or for certain streets in towns.

On 4 November, lunch by the sea near Chazan. A fishing village with wooden houses on stilts, long straight boats with raised prows. Visit the temple. Further along the road a number of stalls selling closed boxes? We are informed that these are boxes of powdered egg, to which the Thai people are partial.

Park on the night of 4 November on the beach at Arunothai, lovely views reminiscent of the bay of Along.

Plantations of palms and coconut trees for hundreds of kilometres, road travels along the sea by wild, but not always attractive, beaches. That at Bauf Saphan Noi, for example, was disappointing. Sight of diving monkeys in front of the Kheo Chong Krachok temple at Prachuop Kluri.

6 November. 'Khao Without King' National Park, by the sea, disappointing visit, no wild animals. In this region there is a great deal of shrimp farming. Hua Hui is a pretty bathing spot, but is invaded by tourists, many of them French. A magnificent former hotel on stilts is now used by the Sofitel chain.

Night of the 7 November by the beach of Cha Am. At Phetchaburi, visit the Phra Nakhon Khire royal palace, now a museum, which contains many pieces of historic furniture and many 17th century temples. On the 10 November, boat trip to the floating market of Daninoen Saduak, about 100 kilometres from Bangkok. Interesting, but as far as I remember less attractive than that in the capital, visited in 1966 and 1969.

No tolls on Thai motorways... On the 10 November we are at the Khao Jai national park. This Saturday the camping site is full, and the one being planned for motorcaravans is not finished. The police at the park suggest we park on their land. We accept, they visit our van and invite us to dinner. All five of them are very pleasant. We take an organised night-time tour with a vehicle to ourselves, but we only manage to see deer, no elephants, no tigers, no other wild animals... The next day walk with a guide in a forest of trees with tall straight trunks. Traces of bear claws in the bark but no bears: elephant tracks but... no elephants!

We are not to be put off: the next day we get up before 5 to go and observe the animals which come, in theory, to drink at a waterhole. We wait at the top of our observation tower until 7.40... They aren't thirsty!

Pak Thuy Chai, a village of natural-silk makers... We see only shops, and the merchandise doesn't tempt me. Later the village of Dan Kwian is bordered for 800 metres and on two sides by ceramic dealers. Some pots are pretty, but too cumbersome.

After Khorat, interesting 11th-century Khmer temple ruins at Pravat Hin Phanom Wan, and Phimai also famous for its Khmer temple in a park. That evening there is a private gathering there, and after some discussion we are given permission to go in. We won't ever regret it: magnificent lights show the temple to advantage, there is singing and dancing which end with fireworks and a flight of about thirty Chinese-style lanterns. Sadly I don't have my camera! The next day a thorough look at the temple and at an interesting museum in town. At Chomabot, natural-silk production, and this time I find some beautiful things. We have eaten a lot of meals from stalls and if you can get the stallholders to go easy with the spices, the food is not bad.

Kalasin, Sakon Nakhon, several temples worth looking at. We crossed an agricultural area before reaching Noakhon Phanom, on the banks of the Mekong. Very fine landscape with a view of the mountains of Laos.

Thursday 15 November, temple of Wat Okaat, a very quiet town, and through the Thai customs. Ferry across the river and we're in Laos. Quick and easy formalities on both sides...

To be continued, with photos...

MADAGASCAR, ROUTE NATIONALE 5... GREETINGS, VAZAHA*!

*VAZAHA is Malagasy for EUROPEANS

It is lucky our motorcaravans were not involved in this trip! Especially as after the prologue and Michel's departure for France our travellers went on a whole month's balade along the tracks of the centre and of the north-west... Perhaps they'll tell us about it. JM

After several days of intensive preparation at Majunga, on the west coast, Maggy and Roger Demontes and Christiane and Serge Herviou meet me at Tananarive, and at 13.30 we leave for the east coast in a hired 4x4 (with driver). The weather is good, the surface of the twisting road is good for 300 of the 360 km to Tamatave, which we reach at 20.45.

The countryside along the Tananrive-Tamatave road changes after 140 km: houses built of mud or brick under metal roofs give way to wooden shacks on stilts, the landscape becomes more exotic with many ravanala, the traveller's tree. Very good evening at my nephews' house.

Friday 7 September. In the morning a short tour of the town, a visit to a furniture factory working mainly in rose-wood, and we leave for the north-east. Sandwich lunch on Foulpointe beach, As far as Soamarana Ivongo, our point of descent, the tarred road is good. Several bridges have recently been replaced or are about to be. We go through the small town of Feuerive, an assembly point for local products including vanilla, coffee and cloves. Soamarana is one of the embarkation points for the isle of Sainte-Marie and the port for the ferry going to the Mananara North and Maroensetra road. We are at the beginning of the so-called dry season, which means that we can take this road, but the ferry does not run so late in the day, so we have to wait till tomorrow before we can leave. Nothing to see here. The Sainte-Marie hotel, the most exclusive in the place, offers us three very rudimentary bungalows: toilets, showers and washing facilities are outside.

At 8 o'clock, we are at the quay, but the usual ferry has broken down. We have to wait till 11 before we leave the shore and the crossing takes ½ hour in a substitute ferry driven by a 9hp engine.

On the other side there is no more tarred road and the track is only usable by a 4x4. Sometimes it passes alongside the sea, sometimes inland, it is not good but luckily it doesn't rain... It takes us 5½ hours to cover the 40 km to Manompana. We thought it would be easy to find lodgings in this town, another embarkation point for the isle of Sainte-Marie and the closest town to the island, but... The first hotel (6 bungalows beside the sea) has just been taken over by a group of people who arrived a few minutes before we did. One kilometre away, a second hotel, again beside the sea, appears not to be up to receiving guests. At Loulou's there are three rooms, already occupied... The owner advises us to go back the way we've come and see the 'At the End of the World' hotel, but the 2 rooms are taken. Another 4 km back is the hotel 2000. It is 6 o'clock, darkness is falling, but we happy enough to take the only two very simple bungalows. No electricity, no sanitation, just a bucket of water outside, the sheets are questionable and there are no blankets although it is cool in the evenings and at night. The WCs are 70 metres away, down a slope, and consist of a building made of local materials with a plank, in the middle of which is a square hole 40x40 cm. For dinner we have fried eggs.

Monday 6.15. We leave the hotel and go into Manompana, where we regain our strength with a large breakfast, including fried eggs, at 11000 Malagasy Francs (12.50 Francs). By 7.30 we are on the road and the nightmare begins. We have to cover 88 km to reach Mananara North. Luckily the weather is fine and our young driver Njaka is good at avoiding pitfalls.

The road is nothing but holes made by the vehicles which have used it. Large stones stick out of the ground to a height of 20 to 30 cm and the Mitsubishi has problems. There are three ferry crossings to be made. We have to provide the fuel (5 litres of petrol brought with us for the purpose), and generally the cost of using the ferry is 5000 Malagasy Francs, but for the Soamarana-Ivongo crossing we have to shell out 75000 Malagasy Francs. Some of the ferries are in a terrifying condition because the Malagasy people fail to maintain their property, even when it belongs to them, and let it deteriorate to a point when it is no longer usable.

On Sunday at around midday we reach Antanambe, 38 km from Manompana. Only 50 to go before we get to Mananara. It appears that this is the most difficult stretch of our journey, as we are about to discover!

The bridges are made of wood with disjointed crossbeams and rotten or missing planks - they get stolen... At every crossing, Serge and Roger direct the driver centimetre by centimetre so that the wheels don't get detached from the axle! Occasionally we come to a bridge that is entirely dilapidated and we have to ford the river. The track goes through many villages with wooden houses on stilts (as a precaution against humidity since it rains a great deal in the area) and roofs made of falafy (leaves of trees). Each house consists of a single room which acts as bedroom, dining room and kitchen. Cooking is done on a wooden fire which fills the room with smoke. The result is that the Malagasy country people have clothes impregnated with the smell of burning wood. Everywhere we go the many children waves their hands as we pass and shout 'Greetings Vazaha'. Usually with a lovely smile. The great thing about the people, both young and old, is that they are very friendly and not at all arrogant.

This is an area of fairly flourishing agriculture (coffee trees, clove trees, vanilla), and as we drive we pass a number of Malagasy people on bicycles, evidence of some wealth since they cost around 900,000 Malagasy Francs to buy (1030 Francs) while the average monthly income is 160,000 (182).

The countryside along the track is pleasant to look at. Often it passes very close to the sea, running either alongside or above the water, and we can see beaches of white or golden sand, many with black rocks.

After Antanambe, the track becomes even more difficult: the exhaust pipe is ripped off by a stone, the bumper is broken, while darkness is beginning to fall and we are still 17 km from Mananara. But as there is nowhere to shelter before we reach the town, we have no choice but to carry on. Our driver is heroic and the track is dry. We have to cross the last bridge in the dark, even though there are many planks missing! We came within a few millimetres of an accident. In the worst stretches, Christiane, Roger and Maggy get out to make the vehicle lighter and walk, while Serge trots in front to mark out any obstacles…

It's a relief to see the lights of the town at 20.40. But surprise, surprise - the hotels are full! However we manage to find a place to stay at the Quartz Hotel, a modern concrete building with running water. Unfortunately the water isn't running this evening, and each of us is confined to 3 pails of the precious liquid.

At 5 in the morning on Monday 10 September, the rain arrives and carries on all day (although this is supposed to be a dry season). The streets of Mananara are dirt roads, so they turn into a mudbath with large stones emerging here and there. I am very disappointed by this town. I'd imagined it to be much more attractive, and because of the rain we forgo a visit to the island where the aye-ayes (diurnal lemurs) live.

We were to have continued our journey as far as Maroensetra, 110 km further on, but the rain and the state of the wooden bridges lead us to abandon our plan and we decide to go back to Tamatave on the 11th. We leave at 6.15 and the rain stays with us until 8. The track has become very muddy and even more difficult, if not altogether dreadful. It takes us 11 hours to cover the 50 km to Antanambe. The vehicle keeps getting stuck and after a particularly trying stretch we discover at around 11 that fuel is leaking from the tank... As we have no chewing gum to stop the hole, we make a part repair with a T-shirt and a sock and continue on our way. During this part of the trip Serge has to walk for 25 km as an advance guard to warn of approaching hazards, and the other passengers, apart from me, have to walk for a dozen or so km to relieve the vehicle. On several occasions the Malagasy people come to help us get out of the mud. The 4x4 has lost both its front and back bumpers and its wings...

At 17.30 we reach the Grondin Hotel at Antanambe, the only hotel in the area but a haven of peace beside the sea, and we're happy to have got that far despite our leaking fuel tank. The owner, M. Grondin is also a mechanic! Tomorrow he'll repair our tank. As the hotel has a parabolic antenna, we learn that Tuesday evening of the tragedies in New York and Washington.

On Wednesday the repairs are done and, after lunch, we leave for Maunupena, 38 km away. The track is still washed away and hard, but nothing to what we went through the day before! Ten km out, the way is blocked by two vehicles stuck in the mud. Our driver manages to tow one of them out and we can carry on. At Maunupena we find rooms in a seaside hotel run by a Chinese man.

On Thursday we leave at 6.30 for Sonierana Ivongo. Getting onto the second ferry brings us out in a cold sweat. The tide is high, there is a big difference in level between the ferry and the quay, and the ferryman refuses to put down any planks. Skilled as he is, Ngaka gets the underside of the vehicle caught and it seesaws, unable to drive on or reverse. Finally, another 4x4 from the other bank pulls it away, though not without some damage.

10km of track, the last ferry, we're getting used to this now... We rejoin the tarred road for 24 hours rest in the bungalow we've been lent at Foulpointe. Lobster, prawns and fish, bought from local fishermen and grilled over a wood fire, complete the process of recovery…

On Saturday morning we have a last trip to Tamatave and leave in the afternoon for Ampasciube. We visit the lemur park and return on Sunday evening to Tananarive.

After a bulletin like this one, you'll understand that I need a rest. So don't expect 16 pages in the February bulletin. Indeed, there is likely to be a short delay as I should be in Isola from 19 January to 2 February, and I'm not planning to buy a laptop!

If you're passing that way, don't forget to get in touch. My mobile phone will be there...