The Silk Route Motorcaravan Club.

Bulletin 89.

Translated by Christine O'Brien
Edited for publication by Les Brook

Report of the AGM
Bergerie Nationale, Rambouillet, 10 November 2001

After indicating the members of the executive for the AGM, Robert Gastaud chairman, Michele Sommer secretary, Marcel Legeay and Andre Bertrand assessors, Jacques Mahaut thanked the 133 active members who were present (including 10 Britons, 4 Belgians and 2 Canadians) and the 26 guests, including Claude Bouissou, administrator of AccRePa (Camping-Cars Paris Region) and Jean-Luc Viandier, president of the Syncro-Club. He then handed over to Monsieur Gerard Larcher, senator and mayor of Rambouillet, who did us the honour of opening this 8th AGM.

His speech was a real delight. Cultured, humorous, cordial, Monsieur Larcher captivated his audience. He began by praising direct democracy, an overt reference to the method used by J. Mahaut for nominating the executive members... and followed this with the objectives of the association: 'To dream is to have eternity before you'. He gave us some of the history of his lovely town and of the Bergerie Nationale [where the AGM was held], and in order to establish a connection between our association and the site of the AGM he was quick to compare sheep from Spain (let the merinos through) and silk worms (two species which transform vegetable fibres into textile fibres!), the route to Santiago de Compostela and the Silk Road... Lively applause... What a shame we hadn't thought to make a recording!

Following a request from our chairman, M. Larcher agreed to be a sponsor of our association, on the express condition that he was welcomed by the group, later...

The ethical and financial reports, given in writing in the November bulletin, were unanimously approved. Monique Brouquet, treasurer, spelled out some details: a healthy balance, no large outgoings in the near future except for the renewal of information material. The credit balance of 54,819.10 Francs might look large but doesn't reflect the actual situation since the figure dates from 31 August and doesn't take into account end-of-year expenses, in particular those incurred at Rambouillet (while no receipts were expected before the arrival of the 2002 subscriptions)...

Following the retirement of Jean Boure from the executive, and the resignation of Nelly Aldera, the executive nominated and the members accepted Serge Herviou, Bob Perdriau and Clive Barker.

In order to improve the bulletin, the meeting agreed by 128 votes for, 4 against and 1 abstention, to increase the subscription to 45 euros for a one van/two people, 35 euros one van/one person.

When next renewing membership, and for new members, an identity photo will be required so that the articles and information in the bulletin can be made more personal. As far as possible, writers will be asked to include a simplified map so that it is possible to follow their journey. Sending floppy discs or email attachments will make the work of editing the bulletin a great deal easier.

The title 'honorary member' will henceforth be reserved for active former members and partners.

It was suggested that we begin automatic franking of envelopes, but the considerable number of philatelists among the membership (evident from a show of hands) led to a rejection of this proposal. On the other hand, in order to save time, the bulletin will now be sent unfolded in a large envelope.

The continual joining of new members throughout the year means that there has to be a constant updating. There were various suggestions on this subject: stop taking new members after 20 January, make the subscription less after that date, but members could not agree about these. Finally it was agreed that we stick to the status quo, except that new listings will no longer be issued during the course of the year. According to one member, several telephone numbers are wrong... Thanks for pointing out mistakes, please do so as soon as possible.

The costs of translating the bulletin into English will be borne by the association, and this translation will be sent out via the internet. This will save expenditure on posting abroad, although those who want it will still be able to receive the French edition.

J. Mahout wondered about the usefulness of the 'grands dossiers' (large files info on specific issues) . Whatever the area covered, maritime transport, insurance, carnets de passage and even gas, we have to recognise that current regulations are hard to follow. Our large specialised shops are better placed than we are to keep abreast of changes, even if their enquiries aren't always exhaustive. It is unrealistic to try and keep these files up-to-date: it would be better to include one technical page in the bulletins and include small pieces of practical information, e.g. a map of the 7 offices you need to visit to get through the Iranian/Turkish border.

The files could also be visited on the camping-car.org website, but at the moment we only have 25% internet-users. There were a number of interruptions... Gas is always a good subject for heated speech... Is it likely to explode? No it isn't! But supposing it does? You have to weigh the bottle, not more than 25kg (12 + 13)... That means you have to take a set of bathroom scales with you.... But we're already overloaded... See PPTC, etc.

As far as the name of the association is concerned, some people suggested that we make our name fit our activities more closely by according the same importance to the phrase 'on the roads of the world' as we do to 'on the Silk Road'. Admittedly we don't have as many destinations in the East as elsewhere, but Silk Road is a phrase with mythical associations, and for this year there will be no change. As for making our logos larger and more visible, the meeting was divided between the need for discretion and the need for recognition... The next lot will be issued in two sizes!

The words domobile, domobilist and domobilism [motorcaravan, motorcaravanner, motorcaravanning] will be presented to the Academie Francaise for inclusion in the official French dictionary, though there were people who didn't agree with this (could there be some linguistic conservatives among us?)

Suggestions for the 2002 AGM and for balades: Wales, Alsace, the South West, the Bordeaux area, the Ardennes, a return to Brittany... but there was no decision!

Obviously not all the members were present, and we very much hope that our request for swift replies, especially about travel plans, will enable us to fix the 3 ritual rendez-vous: a balade in May/June, one in September/October and the 2002 AGM, although the AGM doesn't necessarily involve travelling.

Les Brook, the member responsible for the English-speaking section, spoke in praise of Jacques Mahaut and thanked him for all his work.

In return, our chairman awarded Les Brook his diploma as Chevalier de l'Ordre de la Route de Soie, for services rendered to the association... against a background of general applause [and a standing ovation for JM].

There can be no doubt that the international situation is having disastrous consequences: usually proposals for travel give rise to exchanges and group reunions... This year is flat calm: Australia in January 2002, South Africa, both Americas, West Africa, yes... But not a lot of enthusiasm and only the people planning trips to China (French, British and Canadians still just as determined) will be holding a meeting tomorrow morning, in a room reserved for them, with an interpreter Colette Hancard, who has been kind enough to help us.

One member pointed out that German motorcaravanners have grouped together to charter a cargo boat for Canada... After disembarking, each person went their own way, the only imperative being that they meet up for the return crossing. This is obviously an interesting way of going about things, which our own travellers have used on a small scale. But it presupposes a considerable number of vehicles, there are not enough of us, and to organise transport like this we'd need to advertise, link up with other associations and regroup. This is something we will come back to.

At 6pm Robert Gastaud closed the proceedings of the 8th AGM of the association and invited all those present for a drink before dinner...

Michele Sommer

We apologise for not quoting the names of all those who spoke... There were a great many of you taking part in the discussions, helping us to make progress, telling us of your doubts and satisfactions, and we're very grateful. But it wasn't always easy to make a note of your names, and rather than forget some we decided to omit all of them! So please don't be angry..

The AGM and the Ile de France. A ballad and a 'balade'... in SI flat

[Translator's and editor's note: what follows is based on a couple of untranslatable puns. The French word 'si' can mean 'if', the musical note 'C', and 'yes' depending on the context. Also the French words 'balade', meaning a ramble or stroll (but used here to refer to the Club's 'balades' or mobile rallies), and 'ballade' meaning a ballad, sound the same when read aloud. As I can't do the puns, some of the jokey flavour has been lost.]

IF... we'd been able to predict such a crowd on Friday evening and from those who arrived in the night, we'd have tried to provide better signs for the journey through the park and to organise proper parking places: the main area was soon full (47 vans) and the score of late-comers (or rather those who came less early than the others) had to find other spots.

YES... the amphitheatre of the Bergerie Nationale is imposing!

YES... showing video films on a big screen, after a few adjustments, received a rapturous welcome from the spectators (Saturday evening, Sunday afternoon and evening). There are so many images to show that perhaps we should be thinking about holding a festival of motorcaravan-film-makers' films.

IF... we'd prepared for this reunion better, there might have been photocopied maps enabling us to waste less time looking for rooms, then keys, then rooms, then their occupants... IF... we hadn't overestimated the capacity of the annexe rooms, we'd doubtless have had a more comfortable environment in which to appreciate the champagne flowing after the Saturday sitting... and could have enjoyed the excellent food (ah! the taste of lamb!) more if there'd been another room open. But to do that we'd have had to know in advance that there'd be 157 guests! On the evening before, we only had 146 signed up.

IF... we hadn't underestimated the appetite of the participants, we would have provided some more solid snacks! And certainly not that 'nasty surprise' bread with its poor topping, but which went down quick enough!

IF... I'd prepared the circuit more efficiently you wouldn't have taken any notice of the sign reading 'no entry for rallies' which hung at the entry to the Abbey des Vaux de Cernay... In fact, though the abbey may have been changed into a 3-star hotel, the park is open to the public, and after admiring the splendid architecture we could have had a peaceful lunch at the parking lot... This place was really worth stopping at for a good while. The Abbey of Port-Royal, on the other hand, is only of historical interest...

YES... the Chateau de Breteuil, in the commune of Choisel (Yvelines) ought to appear on all the tourist routes of the region. The hospitality, the interesting public rooms, the quality of the guides (including the master of the house himself [the Marquis!!!]) made it an unmissable attraction. Thanks again to our hosts, M and Mme de Breteuil for allowing us to use the splendid Orangery.

IF... I had read my own words again, I wouldn't have made the 35 camping-cars turn right on entering Versailles when the parking lot was to the left...

IF... I had explored the Chateau a little further, we wouldn't have been restricted to a specific time with a penalty for lateness and a price for the guide, when all I needed to do was go to window 'F' and obtain a free guided tour in the language of your choice! Obviously with a limited number of places and not quite as complete... we were lucky enough to enjoy a humorous and interesting guide... Even our tip was refused...

YES... it has to be admitted, the management of the grounds at Versailles (including Sylvie Chevillon) were efiicient: members who had difficulties walking were allowed to park for free in the Place d'Armes. [So that's how the Bertrands came to be parked at the very gates of Versailles!!].

YES... parking on the avenue des Sceaux is not free (though it's not expensive) and you have to keeping driving round it to find a space. It seems that the local police smiled on us and nobody picked up a ticket... But they may be lax in other respects: Peter and Janet Milner had their vehicle broken into and their mobile went. They then had to spend 4 hours at the police station to make an official report.

YES... I should have asked all the local tourist offices for maps of the sites we were to visit (we thought there would be 42 vehicles!)... In my naivety I thought I could get everything at the office in the Ile-de-France (in the Place de Carrousel), but there were only a few copies and these didn't include all the ones we needed. A telephone call to the central office in the Champs-Elysees was no more helpful. I should have asked each office concerned (a lesson for the future).

YES... Despite everything, everyone managed to get to the Chateau de Monte-Cristo, Port-Marly (Yvelines), a surprising jewel in a sea of green. Pleasant parking spot but...

IF... it had occurred to me that the Museum wouldn't have informed the local police we'd be parking overnight, I'd have done so myself... That would have meant we weren't woken (at 11pm I was fast asleep) by loud voices and violent banging... Thinking it was hooligans I had my hand on the mobile to ring the police when I opened the curtain to discover that we were surrounded by... the police! 3 cars, flashing lights and black shirts... real cowboys! I explained the situation and they left us in peace, but no excuses... It appears that it was the neighbouring clinic that had been worried and alerted the authorities...

IF... I had been there, I could have seen for myself that the leisure complex at Vernouillet boasted not only a huge parking area but also a restaurant. In the cold, a good hot instant meal would have been appreciated. It is lucky that we were able to hold our briefing in a warm room. Thanks to the director M. Roux and to his staff for their friendly welcome. During the day, our visit to the grounds of the Chateau de Saint-Germain, in fine autumnal sunshine, gave us a chance to stretch our legs, and the swimming-pool bar offered a welcome shelter from the cold... for those who were curious enough to go there...

IF... I had looked more carefully at the road map, I wouldn't have ended up in Andresy by turning left instead of right (I wasn't the only one: very bad signposting), and if I had noticed it sooner I could have pointed out to everyone the pretty little barge chapel, Je Sert, moored at the quay at Conflans, an interesting addition to our visit to the Museum of River Transport.

IF... I hadn't trusted the Museum staff at the Chateau d'Auvers, I wouldn't have recommended the parking 'bus' at a distance from the site, when the ordinary parking lot was large enough to take everybody... Luckily, as discipline is not the strong point of the group, only 2 or 3 vehicles remained cautiously at the bottom of the village...

IF... I had booked earlier, I'd doubtless have obtained a more convenient visiting time... Beginning at around 4.10pm, the interesting tour (with headphones) lasted 90 minutes and the two groups we formed didn't leave until around 6.30. Brrrrr! It was cold! I was a bit concerned... In the dark, how many people were going to get lost in the labyrinths of the Ile d'Adam forest? I needn't have worried. A fine heated room was waiting for us to hold the briefing in at Presles, and everyone was there!

YES... M. Pascal Dufour, on the staff at the Presles town hall, welcomed us on the parking lot. He had organised things well: the barriers had been removed; there was a friendly welcome, warm even. The gymnasium facilities were open to us. Hot showers much appreciated by those with restricted living space! Thanks again to the caretaker of the site, and apologies for... see below...

IF... I'd had an ounce of sense, I'd have realised that for anyone who didn't know the area (and that meant everybody but me!), the way into the parking lots at the Forest of Carnelle was not obvious, and I could have avoided them driving several extra kilometres looking for it. After reflection (it takes a while for these things to penetrate), I did put up a sign saying 'Routes de la Soie', but everyone had already passed by, or almost everyone. But in the end nobody got lost and there, too, our ramble on foot under the sun was lovely... We could almost have eaten out of doors!

IF... the person responsible for parking at the Abbey of Royaumont had done his job properly (for once, it wasn't my fault!) he wouldn't have let certain vehicles park on the spaces reserved for us... so we wouldn't have had to push our vans close together and manoeuvre in a difficult situation. In the end everyone managed to get settled.

IF... I'd known in advance that the temperature would fall so low at that point, I'd have brought forward the time of our visit, which I'd chosen for the end of the day so as not to encroach on afternoon activities... The abbey illuminations, the magnificent building, the kindness and the explanations of a guide as chilled as we were, even together were not enough to allow us a proper appreciation of the beauty of the place... No room, no briefing, quickly into the warm, except that...

IF... I had known that the gas would run out so quickly I wouldn't have found myself without heating at 5 in the morning! And when just for once I had a weel-specified van...

IF... there was more room, I could talk about the successful stay at Chantilly, thanks to our friend Georges Martin... That was the best. I'll keep it for the next issue!

Sometimes I feel a bit lonely!

No response to last month's appeal 'in search of a partner'... And yet it doesn't seem an impossible task, and of the 190 national teams there ought to be one which has kept up some contact. Our partners last year were, in order of succession, SICLI, The National Printing Works, Autostar, Camping-Car Magazine, Hymer and SMCDA (VW garage in Saint-Maur)... I'm flagging, please make an effort...

In the absence of any suggestion for a theme for the pictures in the special bulletin, I am going to look through the most typical accounts of our balades and try to illustrate them.

There are cassettes and cassettes.

There are Chinese TV videos, received in extremis. Lovely pictures mostly devoted to the human aspects of travel. We'll come back to them another time.

And there are the cassettes of our chemical WCs!

Lack of experience, a mistake? At Rambouillet the toilets had already been splashed and scented - and how! - on the evening of the 10th. Luckily, cleaning ladies or cleaning by the person(s) responsible restored the situation to normal the following morning...

At Presles, there was the same problem... The gymnasium caters for sporting activities, young children, and the caretaker was justifiably displeased... Her floor cloths went straight into the bin. Should we be surprised if we're refused when we next ask?

Postcards from...

• Pierre and Anne-Marie Arnoult, Cabo de Gata, 10 October. We are at the southernmost tip of Spain, a fantastic place. Up to now very good weather (32°) but that's changing for the worse: wind, rain, hail... hazards? The march of the seasons? Camping in the wild is easy everywhere on the southern coast of Spain at this season.
• Serge and Christiane Hervious, Roger and Maggy Demontes, Ambalavo, 10 October. Camping car on the Silk Roads, Malagasy version...This card will undoubtedly arrive after our return... Very lovely journey with great emotional experiences, our heads are full...
• Maurice Vuillaume and Angele, Rimini, 14 October. Getting the most out of the sunshine and some magnificent long beaches on the North coast of the Adriatic, while waiting for the AGM...
• Leopold and Yvette Charpigny, Pauillac, 16 October. The grape harvest is finished... A little tiring for people our age, but a great atmosphere and a warm welcome from the owners. With M. Lejosne we were the motorcaravanners...
• Joel and Maryse Taisne, Casablanca, 19 October. Friendly greetings from Morocco. Third stay without any problems. We're leaving this evening for Ourzazate and the South.
• Daniel and Daniele Meunier, Great Barrier Reef, 21 October. With the help of NZ Voyages, we're in Australia until the beginning of December then having 3 weeks in New Zealand. After Darwin, Cairns from where we are leaving to go down the Pacific coast, a rented motorcaravan gives us all kinds of freedom...
• Paul and Nadine Leclerc, Albany, 26 October. On our way to New York and on the North-American continent since mid-September, we send greetings to all members, both known and unknown... This country completely meets the desires of people, like us, who look for long-distance travel. New York is easier to cross than New Delhi! We can bear witness that there is nothing much left of the Twin Towers, but NewYorkers have bounced back and there is talk of rebuilding. So, to anyone who's been thinking about it at all, and to those who haven't yet thought of it, we say: Go there!
• Rony Loeschnigg and Gislaine, in Corsica, 3 November. We're coming to the end of a nine-day circular trip and will be at Rambouillet for the AGM. Is Corsica (a French island in the Mediterranean) anything like the large island in the Indian Ocean?
• Michel Barbaudy, Cha Am (Thailand), 7 November. I arrived in South-East Asia ten days ago. The day after I reached Singapore I was able to complete the formalities to retrieve my vehicle, disembarked on 28 October, formalities which I had to go through because the shipper couldn't be bothered and was asking for several days! Vehicle in good condition, no theft except that the ignition key had disappeared... Luckily I had two spares. In the afternoon we left for Malaysia as it was very difficult to park. On the Singapore side, 3 hours of palaver at the customs, lost the green card (doubtless 'borrowed' by the customs officers). Travelled quickly along the Malay coast. We have crossed this country in 4 days and met a nation of very kind, pleasant and smiling people. We've now been driving in Thailand for 5 days. The population is friendly, the southern landscape not outstanding, lots of rain at night, a little during the day... Difficulties with understanding the Thai language, and finding it impossible to read. Not all the road signs are written in English... A good start to our journey. (Editor's note: Since then we have learned that Michel has been to Hanoi, that he was enchanted by Laos and that he intends to return there before coming back to France for a short stay leaving his vehicle out there...)
• Francis Monmart, Luxembourg, 12 November. Hello to the whole team and see you soon...
• Gerard and Nicole Kammerer, Kourou, 20 November. Hello. Guyana wonderful! Everything's going well, our trip will soon be over, shame! After an iron boat to go and see the birds in the marshes, there was a sailboat for the Isles of Salut, then rambles on foot, yes on foot, in the middle of the forest. We then crossed Guyana with a super Guyanese to reach Mariposoula (?) and there we took a dug-out canoe on the River Moroni, a walk up the side of the falls on this huge river and another stroll throughout the undergrowth. Only a few mosquitoes... We were a group of 4 friends... (Shame... our friends were possibly already on the road when I announced that our members Claude and Marie-Helene Chilard were moving to Guyana... They might have been able to meet and talk about, among others things, the only motorcaravan for hire in the region...)
• Serge and Denise Lenouard, Grenada, 20 November. Thanks for your AGM at Rambouillet. We're sorry we left so soon but we had arranged a meeting on the 14 November at the Spanish border. We are now in Andalusia (well and enjoying the sun) to celebrate our 47th wedding anniversary...
• Jean and Babette Laurent, Saint-Joseph, La Reunion, 20 November. We're spending a month on this lovely island, at a time of year which seems pleasant with its endless supply of fruit and its apparently permanent fine weather. The natives are also pleasant to be with. We hope the AGM went very well...

...other news

PAKISTAN
From Gerard Charlin, 22 November (mail)

As previously indicated, we are following the same route as the Moriots, about a month behind them. We didn't manage to find a way to travel from Iran to India by boat and have had to cross Pakistan despite all the counter advice from the Foreign Office and the Pakistani embassy in Paris. It seems that the situation is more tense and we had to drive as quickly as possible for five days with an armed escort, bivouacking at night in barracks. We're pleased to have reached India. Just to let you know. Greetings.

INDIA
From Jean and Simone Moriot, 22 October

We continue our visit to India according to plan. Everything is going well; discovering the sites of Rajasthan was interesting. Terrible levels of poverty, depressing amounts of filth and pollution - especially here, in Delhi. A healthy diet has kept us well. The lorry lost its right rear view mirror to some insane Indian driving. Next goal Katmandu at the beginning of November.

MOROCCO
From Joel and Maryse Taisne, 19 October.

We returned to Morocco on Sunday 14 October, with ¾ hour at the customs, no significant change after the events of 11 September... A warm welcome. In the towns, no tension, no public meetings, nothing special. No restrictions from the police, the officers saluted us as we passed. Two vans returning from the south have also encountered no problems. We have just spent the night in Marrakech in a small parking lot at the foot of the Koutoubia (40 dirhams a night), very peaceful in the valley. We managed to visit the town without being assaulted by any guides, either official or otherwise. We spent our first night after disembarking from the boat on a site already pointed out by your members: the Centre for Moroccans residing abroad at Larache. Free parking, showers, restaurant, water, but a lot of mosquitoes at this time of year. If you had any doubts, don't wait any longer, Morocco is the place to go...

From Jacqueline and Jean Paul Auffray, 24 October Some news: having left for India to recover the van, we returned to France by air on 21 October. Taking into account problems with the return route, we took various steps to get the van shipped from Bombay (Goa wasn't possible). The Bombay customs office is not very efficient and we have had to leave before everything was in order. Luckily our German friend, a great man, was happy to take care of the final formalities for us, having already kept the vehicle for 7 months and looked after our interests as far as transit is concerned. We hope to be able to recover our van at the end of November at Le Havre, give it an overhaul and go to Morocco for a few months. In France, winter is a bit sad...

Members who were not at the AGM or at the balade will no doubt find this bulletin boring... Sorry, but I'm tired and I've done the minimum! No worries, the next bulletin, the 1 January Special will be a full one. Don't forget to send back the attached membership forms as soon as possible, if only to provide material for the 'Planned Trips' heading.