The Silk Route Motorcaravan Club.

Bulletin 88 (in part).

Translated by Bill Pechham, Christine O'Brian and Les Brook
Edited for publication by Les Brook

EDITORIAL

It's not only the woman who 'disposes' (see bulletin 87) but events too! Some of you will be varying your date of departure (towards America, India...) and even if we hope this is only a short interruption, it's very frustrating. But I think we really must get our concerns in perspective.

And let's look on the positive side... In my case, due to a cancellation, this holiday month has enabled me to devote a little more time to reflection. It would have been impossible for me to write this editorial otherwise.

All that one can say is summed up in the question "Why? ". The rest is only unexpected happenings. Carpe diem, more than ever!

Another positive side. Unless Heads of State don't take it into their heads to meet in November at Rambouillet, our AGM looks set fair. Perhaps the restrictions on travel will allow us the presence of friends who should not be there.

I hope that you all received the very special October bulletin, a means of checking the operation of the Malagasy post office. (I received mine on 21 September. When did you get yours?) In the first instance, I was going to send the postcards. Fortunately, substitutes were employed (thank you Demontes/Herviou), and I escaped my monthly penance.

À chacun son voyage! After reading Ferdinand Kohn's impressions [of China 2000 - Aug/Sept bulletins] (very lucid and not really negative to my mind), you will find on page 4 a note from Christiane Dumas, just as interesting and also more optimistic.

You will undoubtedly have noticed this before: two people, even in the same crew, seldom go to the same place! One remarks on the kindness of people, the other on their lack of hygiene; one is delighted by local food, the other gets indigestion! It is this variety that gives charm to their accounts.

JM

AGM 2001 - THE PRESIDENT REPORTS.

I don't want to write just for the sake of it, so I won't speak about the past, and only a little regarding the present.

The Association goes well. Fifty new crews have joined us, whilst two have regrettably left. Our expansion in Europe, especially towards the west, continues... and we now reach Canada, which will enable us to welcome to the AGM, with much pleasure, Carl and Mary Hunter.

And I will stalk to you especially about the future. I will try to answer, without awaiting the debate, the questions put by Les Brook (page 5). I do not think it reasonable to request from our British members a supplement for translation of the bulletin: the saving made on printing and on postage (since this translation will be available only on the internet) should mean we break even. It is necessary to find a way of improving our internet site... Should we reproduce material from the bulletins (accounts of expeditions, routes, proposals for expeditions)?

If you accept the proposed small increase in membership fees, I hope we'll be able to illustrate the bulletins, at least some of the pages. Additional work? Perhaps, but as it will be necessary to avoid folding the document, I will use large envelopes, therefore folding will not be necessary any more. I can also save time by leaving them at the post office for franking, even though that won't please the philatelists, of which I am one! What do you think?

To simplify my work, I would prefer it if new members could only join between November 1 and January 20 each year. This would avoid the perpetual updates of lists/addresses. Outside this period, candidates would simply be put in contact with a member in their area and could thus be informed of our activities.

Lastly, I think that it is necessary to reserve the name " honorary member " for former members. When I proposed this formula last year, without restriction, I was thinking of those who, whilst still active, cannot take part in our activities. But, if they are active, theoretically they can pay a normal sub. This measure will not be retrospective: those which who profited from it in 2001 will be able to continue.

JM

LONG LIVE THE USA.

Before leaving Oregon for California, we turned 90° towards Crater Lake (depth 589 meters, deepest in the USA, diameter 10 km). In the clear water, limpid and emerald, are reflected the enormous rocks which overhang it as well as peaks lit by the sun. It is a very beautiful nature reserve with cascades, gorges, small rivers which curve along valleys.

Our tour of the parks continued... In California, we went to Redwood, 427 sq km, the majority of sequoias being 500 years old. Route 1 expresses perfectly the coast of the Pacific. By the sea, beautiful inlets, innumerable rocks, small beaches of fine sand. On the landward side, forests and small meadows. The original state of this area has indeed been preserved. Some motels are built in the domestic style of the small coastal villages. This wild coast is undoubtedly preserved by the very winding road and the small number of hotels. Without question, it is the most beautiful section of Route 1, and it ends in a steep descent to San Francisco Bay, lit by a resplendent sun.

The inside temperature of 44° quickly drives us towards Yosemite Park 300kms away. The valley that crosses the park is wonderful. The vertical edges of the rocks, polished by rainwater for million of years, sparkle in the sun. From time to time, a cascade tumbles down a vertical slope towards the river which cuts a path through the rocks.

Monterey, 185 kms of San Francisco is an old fishing port converted to tourism. A splendid beach, leisure park, hotels, and the aquarium, one of the best in the USA. During festivals, it caters for thousands of visitors per day. It includes some 60 varieties of marine animals and rare molluscs from the deep, dark and icy water of the underwater canyon of Montenay. Towards the south, the n° 1 continues to clear a passage between the ocean and the steep slopes (sometimes 1200 metres high). Its beauty grabs you. Seals let themselves be admired. A stop at the charming seaside resort of Cayucos makes it possible for us to re-charge our batteries.

CUBA!

Our great travellers Renee and Philippe Dumoulin have created a superb brochure after a free stay on Castro Island. Car hire and lodgings at the house of a local, everything you need to know, motorcaravanner or not, how to avoid getting sunburnt in the shade of the dollars... If you consider a trip in this direction and if you insist a little, I am certain that our voyagers/reporters/editors will be able to help you. I hope to display the brochure at the AGM.

GREECE-TURKEY, AND VICE VERSA.

Uncertain about fares?

An invoice supplied by Christian and Lucie Ruginis-Pannoux tells me that they paid 1028 FF for their van (6.8 m) to travel Venice-Patras on 20 June (high season), and 460 FF Igoumenitsa-Brindisi return on August 8 (low-season?). Open deck, Blue Star Ferries. With tickets for the passengers, a discount [?] of 4%, expenses of 50F, the total cost was 2402 FF. They organised this at Navifrance, Rue de Michaudière (Tel. 01 42 666 540, fax 01 42 665 274).

Andre Helmbacher plans to save 300 kms driving by embarking in Venice with Minoan… completely the opposite of what he said in his earlier letters (see bulletin 85, page 6)! (In the same way that two people travelling together never make the same voyage, the same person can see the same thing in a different way!)

NEWS AND NOTICES.

The cassettes showing Paris-Beijing 2000 should be there [at the AGM]. A letter from Mrs. Shen promises them for October.

Our friend Christian continues to jog along his route in his TRACTO-DAK, with some nice and some nasty surprises. For example, he could not enter the USA as planned not because of the terrorist danger but of the danger represented by Mad Cow Disease. See here.

Jean-Claude and Yvette are preparing actively for their departure to Australia and NZ in 2002 (15 July/15 December) and are happy to make available their planning file (hiring on the spot, transport of vehicle). The request must be made by letter addressed to J-C Griffoin, 317, Chemins des Moulières, la Croix de Palun, 83500 La Seyne-sur-Mer with a cheque for 5 euros (32.80 FF).

Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses (Yonne, France). We've often made free stops to admire this splendid place. The municipality has just opened a camp-site (03 86 745 178 - rogny-les-7-ecluses@wanadoo.fr) at a price that would almost make you give up the pleasures of wild camping. (adventure, taste of forbidden fruit, freedom.). A van plus two adults, electricity: 26 francs. It well deserves a mention!

Clansayes (Drôme), Aire de Toronne. Stéphane welcomes you.

Varennes-sur-Allier. Marie Daban says a motorcaravan service point is opening. But note: tokens for 100 litres of water or an hour of electricty cost 20FF (see para on Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses !).

Label Escales seem to want to imitate our 'aires-libres' initiative as they have a number of places that could offer a welcome with leisure facilities. But it's not free. Tél. 02 47 920 714 - label.escale@wanadoo.fr

New Zealand Voyages offer South Africa by motorcaravan (flight + 23 days/2 persons, 28.600 FF) and other destinations - Australia, NZ. Tel. 01 40 469 915 - nzvoyage@worldnet.fr

Chavagnes-en-Paillers, Vendée. Joël Guérin, duck farmer and foie gras maker offers a place to stop free and a chance to visit the farm, La Chedanière. Tel. 06 16 754 359

Lake Bala (GB). "Preferential price on our superb 4-star campsite". David & Aly. Tel. 01678 520 549 - penybont@tinyonline.co.uk

Morocco: "I'm writing to tell you about the opening, in 2002, of a new place to stop, 'Incontournable'. Please visit my site soon: www.3chameaux.com - J F Bouquillon".

Rivages campsite in Millau (Aveyron) has sent a very full dossier to me regarding its offers, group tariffs. But if you just go there, I think that you will be well accommodated nevertheless! Tel 05 65 610 107 - www.campinglesrivages.com.

NB Do not imagine that we have succumbed to the charms of the Publicity Siren! It is simply a question of returning a small courtesy to the organisations or people who try hard to keep us in touch.

CHATEAUX OF THE ILE-DE-FRANCE
THE 'BALADE' IN NOVEMBER.

After Rambouillet, November 10 and 11, if you wish to join us as we pootle, here's where we will be:

• 12th, about 16.30 at the Château de Breteuil, Choisel commune (Yvelines)
• 13th, visit to Versailles, stop around 18.00 at the Château de Monte-Cristo, Port-Marly (Yvelines)
• 14th at the end of the afternoon, at the Maisons-Lafitte camp-site of (only the car park, the facilities are not available)
• 15th on the municipal car park of Presles (Val d'Oise)
• 16th at 16.00 on the car park of l'Abbaye de Royaumont (Val d'Oise)
• 17th and 18th on the car park of the owners (hippodrome de Chantilly: Chantilly racecourse)

Of course, if we are somewhere for the evening, we will leave in the morning after 9.00!

To date, there are still some things to sort out. The park of the Château de Monte-Cristo may have building works so I will try to find a proper campsite, with facilities that work, for the night of the 14/15th. So to be sure you find us, call the mobile (removed)!

If only I owned Versailles! You need to know that entry into the royal residence is not for plebs! This luxury will cost you approximately 200 FF per couple: entry (group); 49 FF each; guided tour 820FF for 30 people maximum: car park (Place d'Armes) 32FF for three hours, 40 for four hours. Avoid arriving in convoy. The access permission for our vans is ambiguous. If the weather's good, a visit to the gardens is recommended, but if you do, you'll need to park for some time. If you have difficulties with walking, access to the chateau will be possible in your van: all you have to do is send me the registration number of your vehicle. Taking into account the prices, I have booked a guide only for one group. I hope that we will be 30 strong!

In all cases, if you wish to take part in the balade, please inform me of your plans: visit to Versailles, or not, with or without a guide.

Postcards from...

Leon Humm and Elisabeth, Erstein, August 31. The photograph is of Agades, the card from a German organization Robel Tours. We are writing the card at the Dusseldorf Show... we'll post it in France.

Yves, Annie Polge, Guy, Mauricette Lebourgeois, Gap, September 1. Cheesed off not to have seen you in Entrecastaux... Continuing our tour of the Hautes-Alpes.

Andre and Francine Helmbacher, Ispahan, Iran, August. After experiencing mad Iranian trucks, we have finally discovered a marvellous country of kindness and desire for cultural interaction - as well as fantastic landscapes.

Maurice Vuillaume and Angèle, Balaruc-les-Bains, September 6. We hope you get well and that you'll be able to make a big trip soon.

Gerard Pacciarella, Cambo-les-Bains, September 12. After some serious problems, I'm here for a month in a convalescent home. Splendid time and splendid country.

Guy, Mauricette Lebourgeois, Munich, September 23. Fond memories of the beer festival where we spent just a short time.

Claude and Marie-Helene Chilard, Kourou, September 23. We were really sorry for you regarding the voyage to Madagascar. We will be retiring in 2006. Not finding time to be bored in spite of the part-time work which I found here. This has enabled us to discover new, bewitching landscapes. Not seen a motorcaravan, despite there being a hire company in the Cayenne telephone directory. With only 300 kms of good road, this place does not lend itself to this kind of tourism

Leon Humm and Elisabeth, Le Grau-du-Roi, (Languedoc?] September 29. While waiting to visit the Loire châteaux and to maintain our fitness, we are climbing the Cathar castles. All goes well for us and we hope Lucette's problems have been sorted.

From Les Brook - For many months, one of our contacts, John Michael, has been in Australia in his Euro-Mobil. John is a professional photographer and it shows in his pictures. Here's one for you to enjoy

Sorry... This superb image did not want to be transferred to the bulletin! JM

TOWARDS THE EAST- Turkey, Iran, Pakistan.

The following info has been received and presents a contradictory picture (see editorial). But the different accounts are of interest and I must show you them - and leave you to make up your own mind, whether to be optimistic or pessimistic!

July 27 2001 - Fax from Jean Moriot. Getting a visa [for Iran] from Switzerland and paying in Swiss francs costs 1850FF for two people. It lasts one month and required two trips to Berne. Getting the thing in Paris only needs one trip and costs 1850FF, again for two, but including three nights in a hotel!

Footnote - In bulletin 86, André Helmbacher reported 190 Swiss francs for two, not 1850FF! Obviously, the value of the Swiss franc is not the same for everyone! Latest news: the obligation to book hotel nights no longer applies. It has been replaced by a tax.

Note from A. Helmbacher. According to the Swiss we met in Iran, in their country one can obtain visas for Iran, Pakistan, India by correspondence, and quickly.

July 30 2001 - Fax from Jean Moriot. Test successful! The Association has made a comparative study between French and German formalities for the issue of a carnet de passage en douanes. Today, the test confirms the value of the over-the-Rhine solution. A.D.A.C. (the German automobile club) keep their promises. On July 16 in the morning, we went to the Saarbrucken offices of the ADAC. It took only 20 minutes to request and be issued with the carnet on production of a passport, driving licence, cash deposit of the guarantee required according to the scale (20% of the secondhand value) and of the fixed charges. 23rd. ADAC call us. The carnet is ready and we leave to get it (for 8dm, it would have been posted to us). It is the same, in French, of its counterpart issued by the ACF [French auto club], valid everywhere. No restrictions.

Letter from Andre Helmbacher. While passing the border in mid-August, we enjoyed the light emanating from the surrounding mountains. An astounding riot of colour. It was magic and softened the reticence Francine was feeling for this country. But she did not appreciate my cackles when I saw her dressed in a tchador and scarf!

Currency exchange: at the border, a man called Hossein helps us with the formalities, smoothing our passage (eg dealing with the problem of the CB antenna on the roof), and offers to change our money at a rate of 7000 rials for $1. He then asks for a small tip... $5, except that you only have $10! He'll give you your change in rials, exchanged at a rate of 7000, i.e. 3500, but he hasn't 500, so he gives you 2000, or 30 francs more to add to 40, = 70. Do you follow? If so, well done; you're exceptional. The moral of story is: make sure you have a $5 note and don't exchange at the customs for any lesser rate than 7800 per dollar (1000 rials = 9.75 francs).

At Tabriz, the false guide who drove us in his car for 15000 rials didn't take us to where there were competitive rates, by the bazaars... But to the house of 'his friend', which clearly enabled him to get a commission. In fact you get the best rate at the Melli bank, which is accredited: 7953 rials precisely! This is also the rate you generally get (8000 upwards) when you use a green note [Greenback?] to pay for things.

Communications: This will be useful to all travellers in Iran, and it may not be necessary to go all the way to Ispahan to find it... A French-Parsi dictionary (published by Kamali) includes all common phrases. To engage in conversation: France, don't know; Paris, ah!…we're getting somewhere! Football, Platini, Zidane, Barthez... We're off. When you can have a conversation in English, it becomes more serious: questions, answers, world cup players, they want to know everything!

Sleeping: Between Qom and Kashan, Abyaneh, signposted on the main road, a mountain village, a wonderful resting-place, calm, pure air... only 2 km from steep slopes. A motel on the way in with an excellent meal served on a shaded terrace, with an orchestra: a thrush singing to an inexhaustible murmur. On the way down, fill up with water at a spring. If you have any worries about sleeping alone in the open air, there are still service stations, parking lots, police or military offices. In village squares, there is conviviality guaranteed: 50 children or adults will soon appear to hear your news!

Gas: relatively expensive in Turkey (100 francs). On the main routes in Iran there are distributors of bottled gas, but as we don't need any we don't know if they can fill our bottles.

Oil: If you use Fiat oil, Urania Turbo LD SAE 15/40 CCMC API.CE MIL L 2104 E Level, you only have to empty it every 45-50,000 kilometres.

Itinerary: two possible customs posts (Turkey/Iran): Gurbulak and Gagachin. The road from Gurgulak to Teheran is full of lorries, and traffic conditions are difficult. It is better to go towards Khoy, along the great salt lake and towards Saqqueuz (in Kurdish Iran, very friendly and typical) and Sanandaj, an extremely pretty little town which must be visited, with extraordinarily nice people!

Discover: Dogubayazit... We're going towards Lake Van. A refreshing stop at the Muradiye falls, visit the Assyrian fortress of Ayanis Kalesi, at the top of a mountain overlooking the lake. We spend the night at the foot of this mountain, peaceful and alone, and in the morning we set off to explore the site. Recently there have been excavations, now abandoned, which have revealed a fortress buried under 5 metres of soil: an enclosure wall of wonderfully carved black basalt, surmounted by perfectly aligned mud bricks which have stood up to 2700 years of inclement weather. At another site, Guzelsu, there is a magnificent ruined castle, on a rocky peak. A place to visit early in the morning, or during school hours to avoid the crush.

Fuel: 10 centimes (1/10 franc) per litre. On the Turkish side, near Dogubayazit, you can find smuggled gasoline in 200 litre barrels with hand pumps. [This was probably the time to test our miracle product, to make sure it really is gasoline and not rainwater.]

Meeting: before [we met] Jean Moriot, we'd met Alain Massol and his wife in a pine forest near Alexandroupolis (on the Graeco-Turkish border) heading for Turkey [which would explain why they weren't at the 83/06 meeting at Saint Cassien Lake in August. They were possibly already on the road.] It's always a pleasure to encounter club vehicles, especially when their occupants are so nice.

Very hard: to observe the profound male contempt for women who are obliged to keep their hair hidden under a scarf and their bodies concealed under a chador.

[It's great to be young. I remember the 50s, when in the small towns of the centre of the country {FRANCE!!} all women, young and old, went to mass in black with an obligatory scarf; in church men stood on the right, women on the left; there was no question of any woman going into a cafe; certain clubs (and some still exist) refused to admit women, and a little further back, but not much, a bare-headed woman was not considered respectable!] Hard to see how isolated the people are. Hard to see the poverty, the illiteracy, in a country which is the second largest producer of oil in the world. But you have to accept all that and come to visit this beautiful country.

Fax from Jean Moriot, 3 September 2001

Hamgdan, Iran.

After leaving on 16 August, everything has been going well until now. We have kept to our plan (5500 km) and discovered a country in a state of rapid evolution, where the citizens are pleasant and welcoming. Have adopted a vegetarian diet.

Meeting with the Helmbachers on 31 August, near Macou. They are on the way back and pleased with their trip. Between Tabriz and Zanjann, the next day, loss of contact with the Valentin team. From now on we shall be on our own.

As you can imagine, the situation in Pakistan is worrying us. Did they get through? Following a telephone conversation on the 21st with our friend in the French embassy in Islamabad, [we find] the Iran/Pakistan border is closed, and she has no info about our travellers. Luckily on the evening of that same day I was able to join up with Jean Valentin who entered India with his wife and daughter. He had crossed Pakistan without any problem, but he hadn't seen Jean Moriot since Iran... As Jean and Simone were travelling much more slowly than them, they might still be in Iran.

Well, no... They made the journey: fax from Islamabad on 27 September:

First, thank you for your concern about our fate. No need for you to worry and please reassure our friends in the Association: we're in perfect physical condition and morale is good, the truck is mechanically fine. The Pakistanis are charming towards French people: we've benefitted from that.

CHINA 2000 - A DIFFERENT VIEWPOINT.

All criticism must be objective. A negative perspective has already been published [Ferdinand Kohn, Bulletin 86/87]. I want to put the accent on the things that were positive in our voyage.

Of course we sometimes had disagreements, but when we came together in St Cheron in March 2001 [at the reunion meeting] we had two days full of warm-hearted joy and friendship. We went to China to realise a dream, and to visit a country in which the culture is very different from ours. We met young people demonstrating strong values and respect for old people.

Our principal guide, Mr. Tian, accompanied us throughout the voyage and his task was not easy! In each province, we were accompanied by 4 or 5 local guides (13 in Tibet!). They did their best to satisfy us, but they were not prepared to guide a caravan of 17 motorhomes, and we cannot reproach them, our 'epic' being a first!

When we parked up in school grounds, the young Chinese put on shows and offered small gifts, very moving. We were given a cordial welcome in Xuzhou by the senior citizens' university, and in Qufu, in the brewery. Let us not forget the delicious meal in Kashgar; the excellent Peking duck offered by Mrs. Shen, the person in charge of the Agency in Peking; cruising by night on the Liu river in Shangaï; the refined meals which we tasted in Xianing, Changde, Youzhou and Lhassa; dances presented by the Miao minorities and Baï. Have I forgotten anything? All these receptions were not envisaged as being part of the agency's services. We crossed the towns of Xuzhou, Nankin, Wuxi etc escorted by the police who closed off roads. We benefited from free tolls.

Then Tibet! Marvellous Tibet with its unforgettable N 317, but also the savage splendour of its landscapes, the spontaneity of the inhabitants who helped us through its perils. And those technicians of the Chinese television who showed themselves to be extremely supportive when we had our difficulties., Obviously we regret the administrative penalty paid to the agency in Lhassa, but this penalty was receipted. The French-speaking guide entrusted the receipts to me while we were travelling towards Zhangmu, and I distributed them myself to all the vans right before the bridge which separated us from Nepal.

For us, this voyage was very positive and it seems to to me that it was the same for the fellow travellers we met in Saint-Chéron, in March.

We visited deepest China, and saw many sights. We brought back many photographs of authentic China and the everyday life of the people. In spite of the language barrier, our contacts with the population were friendly.

In March, we welcomed Tian and Christopher at our house. We then met at Mauricette and Guy Lebourgeois's home , in company of Annie and Yves Polge, and discovered the same feelings.

To finish, a big thank you to Rene Notteau who put a lot of heart and spent much time in preparing the expedition.

And if we had the chance to do it again? YES! Without hesitation - none.

Christiane Dumas